Thank you! The only thing I wish I’d done is get a headunit that fits with a cage rather than fixed brackets, that would have made it all much easier. Other than that it’s not a difficult job as long as you take your time. When you’re taking the facia out, pop out the central locking switch by...

Finally fitted!!! Took most of the day but happy with the result!!! Including the Reversing camera!! And navigation! Also including built in WiFi so I can tether to my phone for data. Very happy with the results!

Took longer than I expected, I’ve spent at least a couple of hours on this every day this week and a couple of days of 4-5 hours on and off however I’m now happy with it! Now the next job is preparing the wiring as I need to tie it into the reverse and hand break/park circuits but that...

Getting there.... And the new touchscreen head unit in the placed in hole... Still a fair bit of spraying, sanding and perhaps a bit more filling to go yet but it’s looking promising!

In my mind, the back wheels were on the ground, the front off the ground therefore the centre diff would have sent all power to the front (path of least resistance) and both wheels were free therefore they just spun so shouldn’t have been any damage.... I’m guessing g the clink was just the...

Who can guess what tomorrow’s project is.....? https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/aftermarket-double-din-stereo-install.308189/ https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F372356981982

NO, DO NOT connect to permanent live, there should be an output on the stereo, usually a blue wire. You only want it in when there is an audio signal or you’ll burn the amp out.

If your F1 is a higher spec level it may have an amplifier that needs a trigger wire attaching to the new head unit to turn it on.... it’s likely something simple like that if the head unit itself is new/working ok. SWC, I have no idea, it is different for all head units, many after market...

On modern vehicles earth/chassis/-ve/bodyshell are the same thing (-ve earth) so yes you can just screw a -ve wire to the body/chassis and job done although it is best practice to wire back to the battery for high current items such as winches. HOWEVER on some classic vehicles, I’m not sure if...

No worries, always happy to return the help when I can.

Fuses should be slightly over the maximum expected current of the circuit for example, my LED’s are 36w/3A each and I am pairing them therefore the max expected current is 6A and the wire I’m using is rated to 9A so I will cover them with 7.5A fuses therefore the fuse will take more than the...

On the left you have your existing main beam wiring (somewhat simplified) and on the right you have additional wiring for two spot/flood lights. Notice that everything starts at the +ve of the battery and ends at earth (-ve of the battery). Fuses are close to the battery so that if the wire...

Think of circles, electricity needs to start somewhere and finish somewhere and do something in between. It starts at the battery does something at the relay/light/winch etc and goes back to the battery. Going from the battery straight back th the battery is a short-circuit (bad, makes...

In a word, no...... I don’t have any drawing implements available at present, I’ll sort something later. Basically a relay is an electrical ‘switch’ in itself, on one side you have +ve and -ve the feed a coil which creates a small magnet field that closes a ‘switch’ which then completes a...

I was tempted by a combined fuse/relay box but it was mainly the size. I’ve got 8 circuits planned at present but 3 empty slots in the dash pod so decided to keep the fuse box small and put the relays elsewhere.

I ummed and aaarhed about the roofrack to start with but decided that I wanted 360 degree flood lighting, amber strobes/beacons and a couple of comms aerials so concluded this roofrack was the best option. I didn’t want a single roof bar at the back or something like that. It just looks untidy...

I’m nothing but pleased with my nanocom. It’s very easy to use and very intuitive. Excellent service and delivery, kept up to date via email throughout. Once I got it the only instructions I needed was to input the licence codes but it hat is easy enough to do. Half an hour sat in my truck...

Got on with fitting some of the flood lights this afternoon. Both sides are done and wired to a waterproof plug on the roof rack with the wiring also in for the rear pair when I work out how to fit them. I’m doing my best to keep the top of the roof rack as clear as possible other than...

I needed that laugh!!! Thank you!!

@resto_d1 thankfully the truck has been good to me so far with the only light coming on being the SRS light which only happens when I move the passenger seat. Nanocom says it’s the pretensioner on that seat but it corrects itself when the seat is moved back.... @dieseldog69 thanks for that...