Never had any issues with mine beyond tin-worm and that heater diverter valve thingy.

That was the early one. Plagued by throttle body issues and chain tensioner failures. All sorted by early 2001 after which it is another Jag classic. Coolant pipe across the V at the back gets very hot in Range Rovers and can fail according to our 'enry on here.

Diesel gives white smoke. Doesn't explain the water though. That would make sense. The water will hold pressure longer than the engine.

Definitely water not diesel? Jammed injector might let diesel past rings i to the sump, although water foing missing doesn't sound good.

If you pull a glow-plug out with the valves closed on that cylinder and use an airline to pressurise the cylinder it might narrow down problems. Take the top off the expansion tank. If water ****es out the expansion tank then probably cracked head. Hissing at intake or exhaust manifold could be...

Are Island-4x4 not in Kent? Might be worth popping in. Don't know of any breakers there but bound to be one somewhere.

I must admit it is very noticeable on the P38. More like a truck than a car.

Only issue with push-fit is uou need to be very clean when you cut the pipe and be gentle pushing it past the rubber o-rings or you damage them and it will always leak.

Dunno. Could well be. The old Pug diesels were very reliable but start taking things to their limit and you can break anything.

Is it attached to the water pump? Could the pump bearings have play so it is wobbling more than usual? Viscous will roar a bit on startup and then go quiet until it heats up enough to engage: that's normal.

RF receiver would be my first port of call for battery drain.

Did that coil not come in in either '98 or '99? If your car is cross-over it may not have it. Anything broadcasting on 433 MHz nearby? Wireless doorbell or weather station? Might cause it to pick up a spurious signal once in a while if you still have okd RF receiver. I thought we already...

I doubt they put excess fixings on. Heat cycles might warp it over time and then you're looking at a new manifold. Sooner rather than later you're going to have to tackle it. Can you get at it with the wheel-arch liner removed?

Not melted yet?

Ford engine, innit?! It is a very short engine and I think they had to balance the size of the oil feed holes against strength and in reducing the size of the hole setup a situation where the slightest buildup of deposit restricts the oil feed and it overheats with catastrophic consequences.

My experience with manifold bolts / nuts is that they're heat cycle hardened, brittle with rust and hard as hell to drill or cut. As for the rattle: heat shields touching somewhere? You might be able to slacken the joins slightly to adjust alignment a little.

I suspect the D4 is canbus so you would need one of Storey's other products and a decent diag cable to connect to your laptop.

My feeling is that if that seal has failed and it is still on its original FIP then it is time to bite the bullet and get a refurbed unit from Diesel Jones.

You'll need to mop the sweat out after visiting Spain in August. Or scrape the dessicated body fluids off.

Set off one of those car-bomb Odor-X deoderise thingies in it. You could smell it outside the car! Does the job though. Car smells like new.