MrGorsky

MrGorsky

Well-Known Member
Full Member
As above really.

I unlock the car with the remote, put the key in the ignition and start the car no problems. The next day I can do exactly the same thing, but it gives me the message, I press unlock on the remote (usually with the key still in the ignition), the locks bounce, the indicators flash and the engine will start. Next day no problems, day after that no problems, day after that Engine Disabled Press Remote....

It happend once in a while, but it's getting more frequent as if something is slowly failing. It's not a key sync thing because both keys lock and unlock the vehicle no problem. I'm pretty sure it's the passive immobilisation playing up. Maybe the coil in the steering column? Maybe the recieving coil in the key handset? The problem happens with both keys though, so it's either both going at the same time, or the steering column coil. I thought I'd see if anyone else has had this intermittent problem....?

Also, has anyone changed the passive immobilisation coil before? I know I can switch it off with the Nanocom, but I'd rather not if I dont have to.

MY1998 Gems 4.6. Key fob batteries are new. No other problems.

Screenshot 2024-08-05 at 09.43.52.png
 
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Haven't looked in a while, but they are usually clipped to the barrel. The green ring is to barrel illumination.

1722850472982.png
 
Door lock micro switches could be the problem. The coil is unlikely to fail. Turn off EKA and the immobiliser and you will be much less likely to have a problem, yo can even operate the car with just the key blade.
 
Datatek said:
Door lock micro switches could be the problem. The coil is unlikely to fail. Turn off EKA and the immobiliser and you will be much less likely to have a problem, yo can even operate the car with just the key blade.
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I can do that. What does turning off the EKA do exactly?
 
Datatek said:
It eliminates the need to enter the Emergency Key Access code in the event that the FOB doesn't work meaning that the car can be operated with just the key blade. I run both mine like that.
Click to expand...
Sounds like a good idea really. I doubt anyone is looking to steal my 27 year old Land Rover by now. I read on the other site something about bypassing the imobiliser too. Jumper wires in the BECM or some such. Not really disabled, but jumpered so the BECM always thinks it's had the correct mobilisation code.
 
MrGorsky said:
Sounds like a good idea really. I doubt anyone is looking to steal my 27 year old Land Rover by now. I read on the other site something about bypassing the imobiliser too. Jumper wires in the BECM or some such. Not really disabled, but jumpered so the BECM always thinks it's had the correct mobilisation code.
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Cannot see how jumper wires can do that ?
 
MrGorsky said:
Sounds like a good idea really. I doubt anyone is looking to steal my 27 year old Land Rover by now. I read on the other site something about bypassing the imobiliser too. Jumper wires in the BECM or some such. Not really disabled, but jumpered so the BECM always thinks it's had the correct mobilisation code.
Click to expand...
Cannot be done with jumpers in the BECM but, at least on the diesel and I suspect the V8, the immobiliser can be turned off with Nanocom which in effect makes re-mobilisation automatic. Again I run both mine like that. Leave the alar enabled though.
 
MrGorsky said:
There might have been a small circuit as well. Some guy in Oz sorted it. If I ever find the link to the article I’ll post it.
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Yes it can be done with a little micro processor but why go to the trouble when it can be done simply with diagnostics?
 
This is the guys channel. What he's actually done is reverse engineered a FFFout board. It connects up to the Engine ECU not, the BECM I think. I did read about the FFFout in a technical bulletin years ago, but I can't remember what it was all about now.

Nice little trick though.

 
As I said, not simple jumper wire(s). The "tool" used on that video probably does the same as the dealer "Testbook LRNAFOUT" module. I have wondered if doing the same GEMS programming usingNanocom would also work, but I don't have a spare ECU to try it on.
 
MrGorsky said:
Where is the damn thing? Is it integral to the ignition barrel?

View attachment 323205
Click to expand...

Did that coil not come in in either '98 or '99? If your car is cross-over it may not have it.

Anything broadcasting on 433 MHz nearby? Wireless doorbell or weather station? Might cause it to pick up a spurious signal once in a while if you still have okd RF receiver.

I thought we already turned off your EKA and passive immobiliser. I know I did on both of mine years ago.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Did that coil not come in in either '98 or '99? If your car is cross-over it may not have it.

Anything broadcasting on 433 MHz nearby? Wireless doorbell or weather station? Might cause it to pick up a spurious signal once in a while if you still have okd RF receiver.

I thought we already turned off your EKA and passive immobiliser. I know I did on both of mine years ago.
Click to expand...

I'm MY'98 so I have lazy sync or whatever they called it. The remote works from the other end of the driveway... and I have the mkIII RF reciever so I don't think it's spurious signals from a doorbell.

A few others on the other site have had the same problem and it's been the coil, it could be the microswitches, they're certainly original, either way I'll just disable it next chance I get and we'll see what happens....
 
MrGorsky said:
I'm MY'98 so I have lazy sync or whatever they called it. The remote works from the other end of the driveway... and I have the mkIII RF reciever so I don't think it's spurious signals from a doorbell.

A few others on the other site have had the same problem and it's been the coil, it could be the microswitches, they're certainly original, either way I'll just disable it next chance I get and we'll see what happens....
Click to expand...
There is not a lot to go wrong with the coil apart from perhaps the connector
 
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