90/110/defender dash should be similar, it is basically the same bulkhead after all. Nice if you can get a late one with all the vents and switches and whatnot.

To replace the hubs you need a drive member for each side, see link - this is for pre 1980 but there's post 80 also available (more splines). You'll prob need new bolts also so they're the right length, just search drive member bolts. LAND ROVER SERIES 2/3 10 SPLINE AXLE DRIVE MEMBER KIT to...

You've got it in the right place (in line with one of the heater hoses I'm guessing), there's not really anywhere else it can go is there? Don't forget to have the heater controls set to full hot so it can flow properly!

Could be just a dragging clutch or just sticky and unused in general, perhaps try new oil and a bit of driving about in it first.

He's talking about the later type dude which don't use conventional headlamp bowls and chrome finishers. There's a metal adapter ring you need to make this happen, they come up on ebay VERY rarely, you prob need to find someone who's breaking one and be proactive to get them, or fab something...

You can always just engage then try and drive in a tight circle on tarmac, if it judders and wiggles then its in 4wd!

Sounds like the layshaft bearings in the 'box as the layshaft isn't driven through in 4th (though is rotating). Will probably go on for years like that, rebuilding a box is pretty straightforward if you want to though.

Good grief, that's total scrap, don't even go near it unless you're intending to spend 6-10k plus over a couple of years and basically build a new landrover using a few token parts from it like axle tubes and few body panels, it hasn't even got an ID as you said. You won't be able to unbolt...

What year is it? Sounds like the brake imbalance warning which is off a switch on the brake balance valve down on the chassis under the pedal box area. It lights if there's been a failure in either the front or rear brake circuit (hence imbalance - the internal valve has moved over to isolate...

Pretty rusty alright but very original innit. Do they have MOT's in Shetland or is it one of those places so remote they're kind of exempt, maybe its been passing on the nod given the usage but eventually someones said enough's enough!

Shame you can't remember the reg, could always chance your arm at just applying for a repalcement v5 with the vin and reg, never know it might just pop out of the dvla computer system :)

That sounds more like your front wheel bearing collapsing, is there any noise while driving, does the wheel feel loose if you push and pull it at the top? I think you should be very careful.

The problem with UJ's is not wear, it's that the driven side doesn't rotate at the same speed as the drive side - it does in that 1 turn of one side results in 1 turn of the other side, but within that rotation the joint accelerates and slows down again. The bigger the angle (like steering) the...

And you can remove the inspection plate on top of the t box and check gears are engaging fully, which is fairly certain as they're being pulled by the rod that the selector lever pulls.

There's also a detent ball for the transfer shifter on top of the transfer case at the rear, you can unscrew that and check the ball is free to move and the spring holding it is in good condition.

Not adjustable, the throw is fixed, as said above remove any mats and the gaiter and check its able to move forward fully and isn't being pulled back.

Here's a pic of a series engine and transmission lifted in balance. As you can see the rear eye is taking 80% of the load with rest on the front eye.

Sorry for the ambiguity, you need to cut both webs on the passenger side.

Yes the webs need cutting, have a look at the pics halfway into this post - cut both sides. Easy with a grinder and cutting disc. http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/2793014-post107.html

If you use the 2.5 twin choke carb, I think it needs a couple of electrical connections to open the fuel flow, also an electric fuel pump. You'll prob be able to tell from the donor vehicle from what they've done. It might have a 2.25 carb and manifold on, wouldn't be getting the best from it...