Woohoo! top truck, I love the big station wagons. Get on with it.

The story is kind of plausible and it does have the look of a long time bitsa Land Rover rather than an immaculate late ringer. A lot can happen in 25 years, there's a few non td5 bits too in various places. Who knows where the individual bits came from of course.

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f6/rattleguns-series-rebuild-210097-5.html There's some rebuild detail in there although it doesn't show the front seal being done and the rear one is a little different on a 1975 3 bearing engine.

Tidy job. Check your engine breather is connected to the carb, if it's just venting from the cap it'll get sucked in there and you'll come over all peculiar.

There's a full stick set and what looks like a seat belt mount rail. Bikini top isn't a nice colour tho. Should get about £160-£180 on eBay.

So that's why I can't get the kids old weetabix off the dining table???? it's like bloody iron!

Welcome Mike. Did you engage 4x4 by pushing down the yellow lever or pulling the red lever back into low range? It makes a hell of a whine in low range (straight cut gears usually), are you sure you didn't have it in low to start with (which is red lever pulled backwards)? Unless its...

I think it's an illusion caused by where a rough bastard file type thing has pushed the alloy over when filing down that casting sprue. 'bastard' is a type of file :)

One of the magazines recently built one, they shortened the rear tub to make it fit the disco 100" wheelbase. Looked pretty good. Nice proportions, always thought 88/90 looked a bit short. The most work was adding outriggers and supports for the series bodywork.

You're not just missing one engine mount nut, you're missing three! There should be a bolt in the hole to the left, a nut on the one to the right and a nut on a threaded part in the middle, from the engine mount rubber. I wouldn't obsess about the pushrods for now, they obviously rusted...

The video looks right, the rotor arm is coming round to the no1 spark plug position at the right point in the cycle. Basically, after that 2nd valve from the front actuates (inlet), the next time it comes to TDC is the compression one. Have you tried running it yet?

Man up

I like your paint job, please could tell me what paint you are using, where it's from, how much thinning it needed and any other details as it's nearly time to paint mine! Thanks

What have you heard so far? If it's a standard old series 3 with the usual rusty bits, £1500 with an MOT maybe? Really depends on condition of all the parts and it's useability.

Thanks James, I'm having a look at them now, not found a real life pic of them yet though. I have found these though, and could get them galvanised too, which would suit really well: http://storage.cbf.uk.com/pdf/STEELSECTION.pdf They've got loads of interesting stuff too.

Thanks Trax, I've found some thresholds that would do it functionally but am still looking for something like those as they act like skids too.

That made I laugh :) possibly not the best endorsement :eek:

Just to mention, 2 of the last 4 series boxes I've played with didn't actually select 4wd at all, the yellow knob goes down but the selector rod doesn't move as it's corroded in the front of the transfer case. It can be eased by removing the tin cover at the front and easing it free. If you run...

I'm thinking of doing this on my Series rebuild, in a more rustic fashion. Any ideas on where I might search for the metal joining strips they're using, I can't think what to call them? They're just a flat strip with a small u shape at each side to hold the wood down...

Do you have to stop first?