both valves on no 1 piston been free to rock a little when engine is at tdc ,no 4 will both be tight ie holding valves slightly open , then you know no 1 cylinder is at the right part of cycle for spark to occur
 
The video looks right, the rotor arm is coming round to the no1 spark plug position at the right point in the cycle.

Basically, after that 2nd valve from the front actuates (inlet), the next time it comes to TDC is the compression one.

Have you tried running it yet?
 
Rattlegun said:
The video looks right, the rotor arm is coming round to the no1 spark plug position at the right point in the cycle.

Basically, after that 2nd valve from the front actuates (inlet), the next time it comes to TDC is the compression one.

Have you tried running it yet?
Click to expand...

not ran it yet, I might try and set valve clearances while rocker is off-what ya reckon?

there were a couple of rusty flakes sitting in top of head-dunno where they came from, the front no.1 pushrods looks a little rusty-is that normal?

when I do valve clearances with the rule of 9 do I have to wait for valve 1 to fully close (ie at top of its highest point) before I adjust valve 8?
 
joe27979 said:
not ran it yet, I might try and set valve clearances while rocker is off-what ya reckon?

there were a couple of rusty flakes sitting in top of head-dunno where they came from, the front no.1 pushrods looks a little rusty-is that normal?

when I do valve clearances with the rule of 9 do I have to wait for valve 1 to fully close (ie at top of its highest point) before I adjust valve 8?
Click to expand...

rusty push rods isnt normal unless engines been stood a god while , rule of 9 is when no 8 is just fully open adjust no1, if you go past that poing go on to next valve thats going to fully open and adjust its from 9 number
 
cheers James-the old girl stood for a year before I purchased it

it looks like I did have skew gear out 180degrees, was easy to change with USB boroscope though :)
 
said rusty rod on no.1 exhaust:

F02C4030-6DDD-4829-BCC6-3D01F15EAAED-3089-0000034C93AE948C_zpsf74e1882.jpg


oh, and they shear joy of finding no bolts in my offside engine mount... WTF!!
7DE5F7CB-1285-46A6-95EE-0F06287C7D0F-3089-0000034C9B5C828D_zpsc98975cc.jpg
 
You're not just missing one engine mount nut, you're missing three! There should be a bolt in the hole to the left, a nut on the one to the right and a nut on a threaded part in the middle, from the engine mount rubber.

I wouldn't obsess about the pushrods for now, they obviously rusted while it was standing but they've got oil on now and it won't get any worse. If there was any on the moving face it would have been rubbed off by now. It's easy enough to get back in there. If you do remove it (it's about as simple as you said) it'll want to spring apart at the ends so get ready for that.
 
Glad the webcam idea was useful - wish I'd thought of using a pair of clamps to hold it at the right height though...

Looks like your previous owner was as much of a pillock for a dodgy bodges and forgetting to put back or tighten up bolts! I'd have a good look at the engine mount issue now might be the time to replace them all. The most difficult part is removing the old ones....it looks like you might have been saved that job!

I'd not bother stripping down the rockers unless you're going to do a full service but I would check that there's oil getting every where it should. It should seep/squirt out of the top of each rocker and dribble onto valve tops and also out of holes at the push rod ends. Refit the timing cover loosley, start the engine the engine then take the timing cover off to see its all working. Just don't rev it too much or you'll cover everything with oil. At tick over it should be fairly slow seep. If you're a bit ginger or like exercise you could do the same by removing the plugs and giving it a few dozen quick turns on the starting handle...
 
just wanted to pass on my thanks to all those that contributed to this thread-I hope it helps others out in the future :)

I set valve clearances today, they were 0.20 so really needed a tweak.
put it all back together and after playing with dizzy position she fired and ran sweet as a nut!
I'll dynamically time her tomorrow with strobe and then it's time for fitting the new weber carb :)
 
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