Yups.... may nab that idea myself too! lol

to drop the gearing, you've got a LOT of options - for a mild drop, shove in the FD from any other FWD PG1 L series. Quite a bit of work however

have you fitted them to the upper, or lower holes?

Personally, I'd swap the wheels+nudge bar (the rubber ones look a bit... naff, IMO) After that, get yourself a 2kOhm variable resistor, some SDi injectors, and a turbo from a Rover 25/45/MGZR/MGZS (swap the turbine housings over, so it'll fit the hippo) Will have you floating up around...

a spray of diesel, is ridiculously easier to ignite, than a pool of diesel however

it's technically possible.... but an L series doesn't have any external parts hot enough to ignite diesel. If it does - mine would've gone up in flames in the first week, when an injector union decided it didn't want to seal. Literally sprayed a couple of litres of diesel all over the engine...

found out the "saturation point" of the stock intercooler... and it happens after cruising along at 95mph for a few minutes it seems :lol: Started with a bit of a light haze of smoke from the exhaust, building up (within about 20 seconds) into quite thick black smoke - due to the intercooler...

well, I've got my hands on some 50x50x3 box section.... so mine will be twice as awesome as yours :lol:

plus... that's nothing more than a few lengths of box section welded together. You could knock one out for about £50, and bolt onto some actual roof rail fittings. For £250, I'd want some tubular steel at least! :lol:

As of yet - only ONE L series has gotten over 200Bhp. He used a pretty expensive hybrid turbo (GTB1856v - but with a funky compressor wheel, not an off the shelf jobbie) which used a proper electronic controller, and larger than SDi nozzles (again, custom items). So with that in mind...

well don't look at Series Landies then :lol:

either roofrack, or strap onto the spare wheel, like some bike carriers do (albeit, this can be expanded out as an idea, to use a steel frame/etc) Failing that... put it in the boot :lol: EDIT: another idea, would be to make a frame to hold a jerry can, then mount the rear number plate to...

You can't tease me like that - say you've got one bolted up but NOT put any pictures up :lol:

or... get a remap for £200~, and get a reasonable bump No, it won't get you as much as all of the above - but it's an instant no-effort answer :)

we don't... but if I can get one of these blue fittings onto another slave cylinder (I'm swaying towards an mgf item, so I can just slap on an existing mount) then we can cut off the stock plastic one, and screw on a slave that DOES have a bleed nipple. The stock master cylinder does the job...

just had a realisation, that makes this whole affair far less of a headache, and cheaper.... The only reason we end up swapping the master cylinder, pipework, resevoir, etc - is because the standard pipework has an odd fitting. But it just dawned on me that I've already got a solution to this...

The L series isn't fussy in the slightest about oil quality - the longest lived one I know of, is at around 280k - the only oil it's ever had, is whatever was cheapest at the supermarket - same goes for his fuel. The real-world difference isn't noticeable, in the slightest. For the cost of...

Power is only part of the considerations for a manufacturer don't forget - due to the pretty damned high CR of this little lump, as we bump up the power, NOx production goes through the roof, as does particulate emissions. But as we don't get tested for that come MOT time (yet), then we can...

now written up - can be found in this thread ;) http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/l-series-mods-284526.html I'd estimate I'm running around 130Bhp, going off what previous people have made with similar mods