shocks away :D the old shocks had no resistance left at all I could move them up and down as easily as a bike pump not attached to a tyre, new ones are on, must thank the s3 designer for routing the brake pipes near the drivers side shock bolt nut, not at all inconvenient.

oo goodie. one shock is off bit of a pita, maybe I need some better drill bits, seemed to take an age to go through the pin. is it a good idea to slap a bit of copperlube on the prongy bits the shocks go on. according to the "follow my parcel" the new shocks are 1 hour 15 mins away :D

I don't fancy fiddling with that seal :D I would have to get riveting tools. not looking forward to taking the pump off to do that bit

http://www.pegasusparts.co.uk/ourshop_90073/prod_2304615-PSK-3037-Gearbox-Tunnel-Type-1.html link to the Pegasus one, not ideal but if you can't find or make the other type, it comes to around the bottom of the holes on the bh that the other type bolts in to so you have to find a way of...

no that's the Pegasus parts one :D I couldn't do anything like that. I was going to get someone to weld it on but then I saw the green and yellow one on ebay so I got that and used it instead.

here is a pic showing the two types, if you are a skilled welder, Pegasus parts do the weld on one but the holes would need to be welded up on the bh. only way to get the bolt on one is keep an eye on forums or ebay

if its what I think it is, later bh's had the flange as bolt on c.f. welded.

nothing is safe in my hands :D I see what you are saying, I was thinking more along the lines of seeing if there had been a significant effect on the smoke level

surely you can fire it up for a short while before you put the rad etc back just to see if it goes? or connect the rad hoses and run it for longer till you are sure your work is done?

thx for the info, guess I shall be ordering a socket :D

tbh I didn't know it needed to be torqued, my intention is to do what you have done, just tighten it up as tight as I can. if it is that important I would have to buy a socket for the job.

had a few moments to fiddle this afternoon so I thought I would try getting the shocks off, top bolts were a p.o.p :D pins won't budge despite lots of hammering and plus gas so I guess I shall be drilling them out tomorrow which is a pita

mine are black both s1 and s3

5 is definitely a spring :D

thx for the tips, I'm referring to the diesel land rover site for how to do the timing, http://www.seriesdiesellandrover.com/timing.html looks like a bit of a pullava :D

see what you mean about good eyesight, I can barely see the hole for the timing marks never mind the marks. wha had to refit the starter dog so I could crank the engine, pita you can't see in the hole whilst you crank the engine, have found the ep mark though. tried to photo the hole from above...

I shall stick the anti slap on the list of bits, got to order the new shocks, was holding off till I could see how the chain went. need to get another duct pipe to go between the air filter and engine, the one on there almost came in half as I carried it to the shelf. as long as I get the front...

que? wots one of them :D well the pulley was easy, dropped a slate hammer between the pulley and the engine and pulled, slid out like a knife thru butter

starter dog is off, stuck it in 4wd and 4th, held a stilson on the dog with one hand low on the wrench and whacked the end of the stilson with a hammer. bit of a pita. have to work out how the pulley comes off

pump should be ok, its fairly new in terms of mileage anyway, it was done the last time a garage serviced the truck, before I started having a go myself. knowing what I know now I should have got them to do the chain at the same time. just thought, when the front cover comes off, oil is going...