Land Raver
Well-Known Member
Well done to you for delving in there. Keep the updates coming
honolulujoe
Well-Known Member
pump should be ok, its fairly new in terms of mileage anyway, it was done the last time a garage serviced the truck, before I started having a go myself. knowing what I know now I should have got them to do the chain at the same time.
just thought, when the front cover comes off, oil is going to flow isn't it?
trying to get the starting handle dog thingy off now.
with the pump off the hoses and channel seem gunk free so I assume they flushed the system when they did the pump
just thought, when the front cover comes off, oil is going to flow isn't it?
trying to get the starting handle dog thingy off now.
with the pump off the hoses and channel seem gunk free so I assume they flushed the system when they did the pump
honolulujoe
Well-Known Member
starter dog is off, stuck it in 4wd and 4th, held a stilson on the dog with one hand low on the wrench and whacked the end of the stilson with a hammer. bit of a pita.
have to work out how the pulley comes off
have to work out how the pulley comes off
honolulujoe
Well-Known Member
que? wots one of them
well the pulley was easy, dropped a slate hammer between the pulley and the engine and pulled, slid out like a knife thru butter
Bobsticle
De Villes Advocaat
It sits inside the longest length of chain to stop it flapping around. Its just a metal L bracket with a fiber face. The fiber is set one mill off the chain. The original one will have gouges in it where the chain has rubbed against it. They are only pence to replace. Think its called a damper pad.
The inside of that water pump looks clean. Mine was orange.
The inside of that water pump looks clean. Mine was orange.
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honolulujoe
Well-Known Member
I shall stick the anti slap on the list of bits, got to order the new shocks, was holding off till I could see how the chain went. need to get another duct pipe to go between the air filter and engine, the one on there almost came in half as I carried it to the shelf. as long as I get the front cover off today I shall be happy.
pulley seems to have a groove worn in it on the bit that goes into the block so might get a new one depending on how much they are.
I too was surprised how clean it was inside guess they must have flushed it through when they did the pump, it was a fairly decent set of chaps that serviced it.
pulley seems to have a groove worn in it on the bit that goes into the block so might get a new one depending on how much they are.
I too was surprised how clean it was inside guess they must have flushed it through when they did the pump, it was a fairly decent set of chaps that serviced it.
Bobsticle
De Villes Advocaat
Just don't drop any crap down the slot to the sump or that will have to come off as well to get it out.
Oh and take the tensioner mech off to check for wear. Again, the parts are cheap.
A good pair of quality pants from the wife's knicker drawer blocks up the slot into the sump. Don't use your own as they often chafe afterwards.
I'm not a fan of the way the sump pan makes a seal at the bottom of the front cover. If you damage the sump gasket when removing the front cover you may have to take the whole sump off to make good.
Oh and take the tensioner mech off to check for wear. Again, the parts are cheap.
A good pair of quality pants from the wife's knicker drawer blocks up the slot into the sump. Don't use your own as they often chafe afterwards.
I'm not a fan of the way the sump pan makes a seal at the bottom of the front cover. If you damage the sump gasket when removing the front cover you may have to take the whole sump off to make good.
honolulujoe
Well-Known Member
see what you mean about good eyesight, I can barely see the hole for the timing marks never mind the marks. wha had to refit the starter dog so I could crank the engine, pita you can't see in the hole whilst you crank the engine, have found the ep mark though. tried to photo the hole from above, can't see it in the photo its down in the dark.
will try and take a photo of the cogs when I take the chain off. chain seems fairly tight and looks to be in good nick, hope I am not on a fools errand. had enough for today now, so I shall order my bits.
will try and take a photo of the cogs when I take the chain off. chain seems fairly tight and looks to be in good nick, hope I am not on a fools errand. had enough for today now, so I shall order my bits.
Bobsticle
De Villes Advocaat
Without taking it off and measuring it you cant see any stretch
Make sure you set the flywheel on the 'correct mark' before you remove anything else.
I put a large adjustable on the dog. I could just see the marks whilst turning the spanner. Torch required. I had to stand on the steering rods, belly on the rocker with my head stuffed down the bulkhead.
Oh and pop down to Wilco. They do a reasonably heavy ratchet strap for about a fiver. Makes a perfect battery clamp when cut down.
You may be shocked when turning and repositioning the timing cog with the new chain on. Mine was completely advanced from the original position. Youll know what I mean when you get to that bit.
Make sure you set the flywheel on the 'correct mark' before you remove anything else.
I put a large adjustable on the dog. I could just see the marks whilst turning the spanner. Torch required. I had to stand on the steering rods, belly on the rocker with my head stuffed down the bulkhead.
Oh and pop down to Wilco. They do a reasonably heavy ratchet strap for about a fiver. Makes a perfect battery clamp when cut down.
You may be shocked when turning and repositioning the timing cog with the new chain on. Mine was completely advanced from the original position. Youll know what I mean when you get to that bit.
honolulujoe
Well-Known Member
thx for the tips, I'm referring to the diesel land rover site for how to do the timing, http://www.seriesdiesellandrover.com/timing.html looks like a bit of a pullava
honolulujoe
Well-Known Member
had a few moments to fiddle this afternoon so I thought I would try getting the shocks off, top bolts were a p.o.p
pins won't budge despite lots of hammering and plus gas so I guess I shall be drilling them out tomorrow which is a pita
pins won't budge despite lots of hammering and plus gas so I guess I shall be drilling them out tomorrow which is a pita
honolulujoe
Well-Known Member
Out of interest, how do you envisage torquing the starter dog back up?
I also used an F'ing great set of stilsons to undo it but have no sockets big enough to torgue it up with. At the moment, I've just done it up FT with the stilsons and a bit of locktite.
tbh I didn't know it needed to be torqued, my intention is to do what you have done, just tighten it up as tight as I can.
if it is that important I would have to buy a socket for the job.
Stretch
Well-Known Member
Oh yes this needs to be torqued to 150 lb ft
I don't know if it is applicable for these engines but if the front pullies fall off in use they tend to cause a lot of damage. Often the end of the crankshaft gets nadgered - I've seen some rather interesting welding on the ends of crankshafts before!
honolulujoe
Well-Known Member
Bobsticle
De Villes Advocaat
I gave it three, yes a full three thrutches and two bangs with a big ammer. That is at least 150 thingies and still solid as a rock. I did borrow a socket from the diesel fitter at the end of the street with a huge bar and scaffold pole but took it back when undone.
I don't own a clicky turney bar thing.
I don't own a clicky turney bar thing.
Bobsticle
De Villes Advocaat
It's not a hard job to do.
Set the flywheel set the cam and keep locating the timing cog on its shaft until the new chain is tight.
Having the bottle to turn the key for the first time, now that's hard. Especially knowing if it's out your going to have to start taking that radiator off again.
Set the flywheel set the cam and keep locating the timing cog on its shaft until the new chain is tight.
Having the bottle to turn the key for the first time, now that's hard. Especially knowing if it's out your going to have to start taking that radiator off again.
