Not played with one for years - but sounds like a vacuum operated centre diff lock as found on earlyish Range Rovers?

Sure ... you can ... but it'll be another shed! It sounds like a good deal to me if you take into consideration what you'll spend in wire and time. Where abouts are you Wilko? If you're anywhere near West Wales a chum of mine has just brought in a petrol S3 for breaking. PM me if interested.

No idea on wire sizes - sorry ... but that sounds like a hideous job. By the time you've bought a rake of different wire colours (you will, won't you?!) and connectors etc .... and probably spent several days on it ... have you considered this? AUTO SPARKS

me too. that's a new one on me. good effort on the Landy, hope it lives up to your expectations when finished!

I was looking at the DVLA wording yesterday and although I couln't find anything about needing a vehicle identity check (VIC) after 'specifically' replacing the chassis (new for old), I think the words were 'If a vehicle has been substantially rebuilt', so I guess with the chassis being worth 5...

88 or 109 Series 3 only, as far as I know. 2a's fit but have a different dashboard layout and different windscreen hinges 90/110 fit but the footwells and transmission tunnel is different. Judging by your other posts on galv chassis and stainless fittings, you may be interested in these...

that's as 2a as they come. (All 4 bellhousing member braces are the same, either all kinked on a 3 or straight on a 2a). "if it were me" ... and your front offside dumbiron is a bit dodgy, perhaps I'd consider replacing the dumbiron as someone earlier suggested, stamp your chassis number back...

if you're not concerned about originality you can use 90/110 one-piece seals which fit reasonably readily (some folk grind the lip off the flange but you don't need to), they look a lot neater, and last time I bought a set they were about £12 a side. You'll need to do a bit of trimming around...

This might help. photos are a bit crap as it's dark outside and the subject 2a on the drive is very rusty! 1st off - bellhousing crossmember bracing. On a 2a it's straight, on a 3 the bracing is kinked to clear the clutch slave. This is the bracing on a genuine 2a: Easiest way to ID it...

again the offer is there ... shift your photo to the left to show how the front brake pipes mount to the chassis and it can be easily identified whether the chassis itself is 2a or 3. they're obviously different. other differences include the spacing of the front of rear tub mounts, the...

The galv chassis will probably come un-numbered, so there's nothing to update DVLA with. On a separate note, if you were to buy a correct replacement 2a chassis to suit the ID you own on your logbook, and rebuild onto it the existing components from your Series 3 with the exception of new...

Bulkheads get swapped out, doors get swapped out, we've probably nearly all done it. My 2a has a 110 bulkhead on it and S3 doors. However it's the chassis that (along with a couple of other key components) carries the identity of the vehicle, the bodywork is legally irrelevant. If you can...

... and they can be quite a bit more expensive. 2/2a/3 truck cabs are indeed interchangeable. - if you get one off a 109 you'll also need the filler strip that covers the gap at the back. - you might run into seatbelt mounting issues if it hasn't got mounts fitted, depending on what type of...

if it's the only wheels you've got and you need to be mobile, you can take the rear prop off and slide out the rear axle halfshafts, stick the 'box in 4wd and keep going on front wheel drive only. it's not great but I've got a mate up here who did just that for months.

Had some KAB industrial seats in the last Landy I had on the road, but I think the best I've seen fitted were a set of black leather seats from an MR2. I looked around for a set but they mostly change hands for proper money. I ended up with some leather seats from a Volvo coupe in the current...

Greetings and good luck with the 'shed' ... you is gonna be busy!

give the front prop a bit of thought if you're going to do it in 2 stages ... else you'll (probably) mod the prop to fit the new box to the Series axle, then possibly have to shorten the prop again when you fit the RR axle. you'll find when you fit the RR axle (unless you do major surgery...

good luck. that's a chuff of a lot of work. done it on mine.

can't tell you much between them, but as owner of an early 300tdi Disco with an R380 in it, I can tell you that the early R380's had problems with premature failure and a 'fix' is to run them ATF instead of gearbox oil. you would, however, be back to the problem of a permanent 4wd transfer box...

I bought an 88 a couple of years ago that had a recent MOT, chap had replaced that outrigger and not welded on the new tab to take the body support (why do new outriggers come without that tab??) ... and it had gone through the MOT fine without it. I would have thought that it would contribute...