cracking collection. good find!

sounds like an interesting landy. you might find some of the folk over on the Series 2 club might be able to help you on this, there's some proper gurus over there ... not that we aren't of course ...

rear - yes, couple of hours tops including withdrawing the halfshafts, you can actually do it without even jacking the car up or taking the wheels off [rear only]. front, theoretically yes, but easiest way I've found to withdraw halfshafts is possibly to undo the flange behind the steering...

RR to about 1994, Disco 1 to about 1994 or 90/110. Later RR and Disco look similar but when you withdraw the halfshafts you'll find a different number of splines. You want 10-spline shafts.

If it's the exposed coil thing maybe a couple of inches long mounted on the bulkhead then I think so. But don't quote me as I'm no electrickerist!

is that the resistor that goes in circuit with the heater plugs? if so, it should go off once the engine has started.

eee that looks reet grand. welcome. the overdrive is well worth having.

diffs ... have you got different ratios front to back now? if so I wouldn't necessarily be rushing out to put a permanent 4wd box in ... You could manage the different axle widths by using SWB wheels on the rear and LWB on the front, the different offsets should soak up most of the difference.

It would take someone who really knew their landies to point the finger. If you've already changed the rear axle for an ex-coiler one your track widths are about 70mm different so you'd want to change the front anyway? I'm relying on chassis/steering/suspension for my points, hoping that...

'pends what you are gonna use it for. If it's mostly on-road use, looking at the photos in your other thread, you don't have an overdrive. with the little bit of extra top-end go of your petrol engine I'd be looking to fit either an overdrive, or the poor-man's alternative, a pair of range...

sounds like a job for a bit of bent ally sheet and a squirt of silicone sealant

Doubt if you will find a concise answer on that, even if you write in. Arguable either way, but you can be sure they'd win if they wanted to. I'm very light on originality points too, so I hope not!

think you're probably right - that's a full tilt. if you're fitting a truck cab you'll need a 3/4 tilt. think the hoops can be expensive.

that would be a tilt

would defo agree on possible use of the XUD - we have in our collection here a Citroen Synergie (aka pug 806) people carrier ... it's a vast heavy 12 year old 7-seater housebrick with the 1.9TD and - while it doesn't exactly fly - it goes a heap quicker than I'd want to drive a Series. A...

you should be so lucky. don't think my last diseasel 88 ever made it to 50 and definitely never went anywhere near a motorway. nearest motorway to here is about 40 miles and that was waaaaay too brave ... the breakdown policy for the Disco didn't cover the 88 ... would have been a long push home.

all I can say is it worked for us. we only had a couple of bids on our job, but it was a big, heavy and awkward thing. you can choose your bidder based on the feedback he's got, you don't have to choose the cheapest one.

Our Disco does that sometimes and someone told me it might be bits of air in the system. It still steers and passes MOT's so I've never done anything about it. It's not the belt on ours.

Jon - what does your insurance company think of your creation?

the one thing I haven't quite figured out is which shocks fit. the ones that end up with the right compression/extension lengths by the time you've fitted para's/extended shackles/spacers/SWB rear mounts are the pro-comp ones that you use a rubber gaitor on, not fully steel, and IMHO they don't...