Finally you can own a defender that won't rust!!! Not sure on the release date but it's advertised for £160 at Smyth's

I was looking into using duralac for isolating the fasteners. I hoped that removing the dissimilar metal from the equation would stop any existing corrosion from spreading.

I've got some rubber tape to insulate the different metals and paint the metals to provide another barrier. My question is will the existing aluminium corrosion continue to corrode even after being isolated for the other metal?

Quick question on aluminium galvanic corrosion. Will the corrosion stop if it's isolated and not in contact with other metal, or will it continue spreading like rust and need to be cut out?

Bit of a long shot, but I'm looking for a forward facing rear Exmoor trim seat for a defender 90 TDI. Only really need 1 but wouldn't turn down a pair.

I would look into the vacuum pump and pipe, lack of vacuum can cause hard brake pedal problems.

Ive read that the G valve is when you have drums on the back and brake bias when have discs on the back. The brake bias is part NTC8836. A G valve is a very simple device and apparently can be serviced as the ball can get stuck. Though, I cannot see how this valve is causing your issue.

The price should be based upon weight per kg added in the galvanising process.

My local galvanizing place (Sawtry) have put their prices up. Was quoted today £250 to £300 + vat for a bulkhead, didn't include shot blasting either!! Last year when I got a quote it was £80 to £100. His exact words were "we know how much bulkheads are worth". Needless to say I've found a...

Cheers, I didn't remove the hub, only the 22mm nut.

Many thanks for the advice. I'm a long way off starting the engine as I'm in the middle of a rebuild. I do hope mine has a keyed groove. Fingers crossed it will start in N months time...

Engine is a Defender 200tdi

So as the title says, the centre nut on the fuel injection pump that you shouldn't undo.... Yep you guessed I undid it. FFS. Thought it had to be removed when removing the timing chest . Anyways, I took detailed photos of it before it was removed and comparing the photo with the markings at...

I ordered some direct from bearmach and they do feel softer compared to the Britpart ones I also ordered. Not fitted any yet so can't tell what they are truly like .

I found that the bottom plate on my replacement was thicker than my old one. I used the old plate and it went in easy.

Unless im mistaken but Skytag will also use a mobile network for communication and so can be blocked by the same jammer.

Would like to run this now but is part of a rebuild and everything is scattered about the garage. Once I got bulkhead in and it wired up I will definitely run it before going any further. I didn't go for the turner seal but used a bearmach oem g one. We'll see how that goes.....

2nd time worked a charm, took my time and all looks good. I should really buy seals in pairs!!!

Got the plastic sleeve with mine as well. The issue was getting the seal into the flywheel housing, was very tight and ended up putting a dent in the seal. Hopefully with a better tool and using the freezer method next one will go in better.

Cool thank you for explaining, I was very careful not to touch anything and keep everything clean and dry.