She's becoming a sod to start especially when cold/left standing. Reading through the various threads here it seems that the earthing points would be a good place to start. However... I have two earth leads running from the battery -ve terminal, both of which terminate almost at the same point...

Not sure if it truly makes a difference, but whenever I replace UJ's I mark each flange/mating surface and corresponding area on the prop with a dab of paint to ensure that when reassembled, everything goes back in the correct 'phase' - I'm told it only takes a slight imbalance in the drivetrain...

Thanks Huddy... spot-on. I'll get that ordered and fitted ASAP. Alarm bells started ringing when my local LR specialist stated that early 2.5 NA's came with steel fans and a non-viscous set-up - mine has a plastic fan that freely spins! Cheers for the guidance.

Just about to order a replacement water pump for my '85 2.5 NA. It's had an engine swap to an ex military 2.5 NA unit at some stage and has a plastic fan mounted to a viscous coupling. The standard, non-viscous P/N is: STC 637... just wondering if it's the P/N: STC 635 that I need? The engine...

Perfect... thank you again for that - I REALLY appreciate your guidance on this.

Thanks James... saved me a shed-load of time and hassle there. Does the fan require a special/dedicated tool to facilitate removal?

My 2.5 n/a has recently developed a coolant leak which seems to be slowly getting worse. Wiggling the viscous fan assembly (pulley), reveals a fair degree of play, and coolant weeps from the pulley spindle when the engine is running. Can anyone advise of what parts would likely need replacing...

Can anyone suggest where I'd be able to source a cover for the rear tub of my 90 truck cab? I'm after something similar to the covers available for Erde/Daxara utility trailers - a simple PVC/canvas flat sheet, with elasticated valance. Tried the usual avenues, but can't seem to locate anything...

Check the contact edge of the seals for rips, tears and general signs of wear and tear. If in good order you'll be fine to re-use, else replacement is the only long-term option, although with one-shot grease used as a lubricant (as opposed to EP oil), there's reduced chance of leaks in any case...

As above. Check how the seal sits on the inner bead - does it reach around the entire door aperture, is it twisted, badly kinked, have flat spots or is it damaged? In any case, a new seal would be a decent place to start.

Thanks again for the guidance Kwakerman. I managed to get the trailer light operating (as a hazzard tell-tale), after much cutting, splicing and tidying-up of the rats nest of wires sat behind the speedo. The 'odd bulb' looks as if it could be a dash/dial illumination light, but that's not...

Thanks for the pointers. So, if I'm reading this correctly - when the hazzard switch is on, the TRAILER tell-tale should flash (and not the indicator tell-tale)? Just checked and the trailer tell-tale light doesn't flash once when the indicators are used and as before, there's nothing when...

Can anyone shed some light (it is an MOT failure point, I'm told)? Hazzard warning lights and dash rocker switch work as intended, but instrument tell-tale/idiot light doesn't illuminate. However, instrument tell-tale/idiot light operates perfectly when indicators are used... yet hazards and...

Love the detail of the build thread. A sobering image there of the 110 sat with it's rear on the drive - you were SO lucky! Going back to removal of the radius arm bushes, etc - I had a similar problem, with my 10 ton press being made to look exceptionally feeble. In the end I drilled out a...

Thanks for the reply. I did a bit more digging (quite a bit, actually) and you're right, early models do have a twin plate set-up, whilst later models don't - this doesn't seem to be covered in either the Haynes, or genuine LR manuals - even the exploded diagrams are easy to misinterpret. So...

I'm just about to reassemble the n/s swivel assembly on my 90, but can't seem to make sense of one aspect. It's an early 90 with the top Railko bush set-up, plus bottom pin and bearing, as opposed to the later twin bearing type... Upon disassembly of the swivel assembly, I found that there were...

BIG thank you to Greenlanebasher for taking time to post this up. Parts ordered and another job to crack-on with.

These are the parts I ordered - mine's an '85 2.5 NA, so an early model - always best to double-check fitment for your own vehicle, however: A-Frame Bush x 2 - P/N: NTC1773 A-Frame Bush Bolt x 2 - P/N: BH612321 Nut x 2 - P/N: NY612041 Bolt x 2 - P/N: 253952 Bolt x 4 - P/N: NY608041L A-Frame...

Thanks for the guidance on this one. I think I'll jack-up at the rear chassis rails to remove tension in the A-Frame, but leave the wheels in contact with the garage floor. Based on comments in relation to seized fixings and fasteners, I've ordered a full set of replacements. Ahhh.... another...

Can anyone clarify whether the A-Frame on my Defender 90 can be safely removed (for replacement of the ball joint and bushes), without the need to lift/jack the rear wheels off the ground? There are some excellent online walk-through guides out there however, some specify jacking at the chassis...