I dont have a wiring diagram but mine did not work due to the high temp overide switch in the thermostat housing, if yr motor is working that might be worth a check, just bridge it to see if yr aircon then works. The job of the sensor is to turn yr aircon off when the radiator/motor is getting...

here is the hilux surf site, lots of theories on the overheating problem but no 100% sure fix...0ver 200,000 views shows it is not a small problem.... Toyota 4WD Surf Owners • View forum - KZN130 (3ltr)

i used to belong to a forum for toyota hilux surfs, the forum is full of stories of overheating issues and cracked cylinder heads, I had the over heating problem myself on my 1994 3 litre diesel auto I tried everything but it still overheated when towing, so I sold it for 4000nzd, paid 2500nzd...

from memory your filling process is not quite right, i think it goes fill rad, fill tank to correct level, put cap on tank, fill thermo housing, i dont like removing the cap once its all working fine in case it causes the thermo housing level to drop, and i dont want to repeat the fill process...

theres a definite technique on filling the coolant system you have to follow to ensure the heater works which is described in other posts on this topic. Have to fill through the thermostat with coolant cap done up tight etc. My heater stopped working after a plastic plug blew and half the...

blowers did not work on my 96 tdi, the sliding switch was burnt out, managed to get to work ...sort of but it remains a bit iffy, if thats all it is wrong just budegt for a couple of hours taking the radio panel out etc and fitting a new one. if the blower is working but not providing hot air...

following this thread i just used silkaflex to seal the drivers windscreen scuttle and passenger scuttle, the drivers side is so far staying dry which is a great result............., the passenger side leak was not fixed by the re seal but i will pay some attention to the mudflap plate to see if...

Glow plug relay is in the engine compartment, drivers side, next to main fuse box.

On this forum its been said the valve can bs replaced with a tee piece and lr did that on later models anyway, the valve on mine was blocked and in the process of unblocking it ...it became a tee piece :-) I dont know why yr expansion is filling but the heater matrix might need filling by...

Maybe you can get the extra height you need by unbolting the expansion tank and lifting it, and filling it to the right level with the engine running to remove any air lock in the thermostat housing but I think you should plan on fixing the broken plug, if its plastic you should be able to cut...

I agree with previous post fit the o ring to the pipe, such that it is compressed between the flange on the pipe and the rad. The o ring should not touch the nut. The pipe should fit easily into the rad even with the o ring fitted, if it doesnt I would say the o ring is too "fat"?

I think most people adjust cam belt tension by feel I think I just checked I could twist it 90 degrees using finger pressure on the longest run.May be there is a more scientific method.....some one will no doubt pidt up details if so. So you have bought a cam belt kit with an upgraded pulley...

I got the dog nut off easy, but getting the ferking pulley off was another story even with a mm to go it took huge force to pull it off. If yours came off easy i reckon it must have been off before, if so it might make you want to have a good look at why the belt is shredded? My belt was ok...

When it happens you need to be ready with some diagnostic plans, intermittent issues are the worst. Maybe practice hot wiring the starter motor so when it happens you see if its the starter motor circuit? Then if it turns over ut wont start you can suspect the immobilisor items, and maybe hot...

Just a guess but it could be it cant reset the fault not necessarily you still have the fault. Which is still annoying of course. Low voltage is a common fault and what i caused myself by letting the battery going flat slowly, after i left ignition on...........just disconnecting the battery...

I agree with above, remove the rad, not the bumper, maybe while there replace the water pump and p gasket if its leaking......be prepared for broken studs on the pump tho :rolleyes: Also replace all other belts and maybe all rad hoses but where does it end!

Just my 2 cents worth, if bodging it with plastic metal or similar has not worked and you dont have acess to a lathe etc then it looks like new parts is your best option, it would be possible for a rad specialist to braze on a new union of course, but they might have to cut off a union from a...

Sideways, I agree with above post and i think you mentioned this as well, you may have fixed the fault but the srs system does not reset itself - for any type of fault, unlike most if not all abs faults which are stored but do not prevent the light going out once they are fixed, so either a trip...

Mine has 16year old airbags, when i left the ignition on the battery flattened and it caused the srs light fault so i took the dash apart and put in a bulb wired to the glow plugs, it passes its test just fine...... Not everybodies desired fix i know

Be prepared for your heater not working after a fill up, if it doesnt work you may need to flush it through and/or fill it separately using a disconected heater hose. I find it helps to have the front of the car raised when refilling with coolant, as that makes sure the top bung is higher than...