My bitter experience with this code was that the sensor on the OTHER side had a cracked wire near the sensor causing an intermittent abs light coming on...when I swapped the sensors over left to right the fault did not change sides which really had me fooled. But ultimately replacing the right...

On one (small) point by the OP, it's wrong for YRM to take money from a credit card account before dispatching the goods. It's standard practice to only complete the sale and take the money on the day of despatch, using the card details supplied at time of order placement. I think this would...

Like many I took some time to decide on what tyres to fit to my bog standard D1 when the 2 rears reached the wear limit. I suppose I really wanted BFG ATs but the cheapest I could get then for was 1600 NZD a set of 4 fitted, which seemed too much to me so I opted for the Kumho's at 1000 NZD...

For years the ABS light has been coming on intermittently giving me raised blood pressure at each 6 monthly WOF (same as MOT). Will or won't it pass! I've tried to fix it quite a few times, the errors always being left hand front air gap, or more recently left sensor open circuit. I swapped the...

I have a 96 abs disco 1 and have replaced the swivels and can definitely say the top swivel is a plain bearing not a roller taper bearing, the reason is that the abs sensor would not fit inside a taper bearing. The bottom has a taper.

switch on my 300tdi had all burnt insides after getting very hot for some reason but after a clean up now works ok ish.....so yes you can get at them....easy once you've done it a few times..... :frusty:

There is a load of info on abs on this forum and I suspect it will not be a quick fix. I spent many hours messing about with blink codes replacing wheel bearings and swivel joints checking wiring and connectors etc but still got air gap blink code faults......like yours the abs would kick in...

keep the abs......the fault you have might still be a simple one to fix, the blink codes should tell exactly whats wrong....

on my 96 300tdi non spider i left the ignition on and the gradually dropping voltage made the srs light come on and it did not reset, I just wired a new light to the glow plug circuit, 18 year old air bags prob wont work anyway

at risk of pointing out the obvious....you do know there is a timer aand the 12v only goes to the plugs for around 10 secs before it switches off? on mine i need to wait for 5 secs after the light goes out on the dash before starting it to give the plugs enough time to get hot....

After the amount of messing about with mine thats gone on I reckon your lucky not to have it :mad::mad::mad: I just swapped the front sensors and so far the warning light has stayed off which makes no sense at all :der: but :cheer2:.....which reminds me.....you will need a warning light...

after the car failed on worn swivels I bought and fitted individulal new parts including fittiing a new brit part seal to a near perfect ball and the ferker leaks so bad i eventually gave up on using oil and put the grease in it.......makes one wonder if the brit part seals are...

I thought pressure in the header tank was normal, after all, it has a pressure relief cap fitted to it? If there is no pressure it may mean there is a leak somewhere maybe?

is nulon the manufacturer of oat talking bollox when they say it is not suitale for brass radded cars? :fencing: www.nulon.com.au/pdf/FS101%20-%20Coolant%20-%20The%20Facts/

there is a crash sensor which can get tripped and cause the doors to unlock and hazrards go......my wife kicked it by accident once which is how i found out about it..... (its licated jyst above the passenger footwell). It can be reset using an ignition key sequence, its in the manual how. this...

ive been told you should not use oat if you have a brass rad, its only for (newer) cars with ally rads, i used it on a 94 toyota 4wd with a brass rad and it wrecked the rad within 6 months. Its not an issue for me as i doubt I could go 5 years with the disco without having a reason to drain the...

i can vouch for the effect on power of getting the injedtor pump adjustment wrong, i turned mine the wrong way, it started just fine but did not have the strength to reverse over a 2inch bump to get out of the shed :5bbanghead:

my 96 hilux surf was a rubbish car compared to my disco, general consensus on the equivalent forum to this one was that they had pretty much unsolvable problems with overheating .....I followed the advice and spent a load of $$$$$ and it still overheated when towing......so I bought the disco...

My red 96 auto tows a horse and trailer all up over 1700kg, not as good a 90's 4l land cruiser but but better than my 1994 3l hilux surf. I think yours is down on the power it should have, even in hilly NZ it rarely drops to 2ndd on main roads, if you get the pump wrong it can reduce power but...

id fit a new pump they are cheap compared to the hassle when they fail and youve done the hard work to get the old one out, i got mine from paddocks, but have not done many miles since. do yr best to stop the bolts seizing again.....:doh: