I'll never buy remoulds again it's false economy. BFG are the benchmark for longevity but I suppose if you just want some extreme tread and don't care if they wear out in six months any of the cheapo jobs will do.

Don't wave to all the other knobs with a snorkel and silly stickers?

You should be in luck then they all manage a low MPG. Surely you meant high MPG which might mean you end up disappointed.

I've had to pull my 16ft trailer across two very wet and muddy fields and through some deepish water filled ruts this morning and I have to say the STT's did a very impressive job. Didn't lose traction at all and I was able to steer out of some ruts without any difficulty.

I've had BFG's before and they are the bench mark really. The old pattern mud terrain ones I had gave me an easy 50.000 miles and were still plenty legal for the road even if they had lost their usefulness in the mud. If the Coopers last for say 30.000 they'll be similar value for money based on...

Windows, various dash parts, exhaust sometimes, loose junk in the back. Don't really notice anymore.

Just fitted a set of Cooper STT tyres to our 110. They seem to be reasonably priced at the moment from various places online. I have to say fair play to Paddock's their service was excellent. I've never had Cooper tyres before but initial impressions are good. They seem to be well behaved on the...

I've got a 16ft flat bed trailer with the indespension beams on it. Had it about 8 years with no problems at all.

200 every time for me but bearing in mind all these engines are old now and it's better to get a good engine rather than be picky over which model. You've got to keep a close eye on the cooling system with the 300 or you'll be doing your head gasket. The 200 doesn't suffer the same issues.

I gave up on the old veg oil thing long ago. Used to use it in some of the old discos I had when it was cheap and it didn't really matter what happened to the engine etc long term. I haven't looked at the price recently but last time I did it was about the same as pump diesel, or not enough...

I would go the new chassis way if I had the time and the money. Good luck finding anything, however rotten for 500 quid though.

One thing I would advise is get all the bits you might need before starting as you don't want to have to take it all to bits twice. Mine had a cable that was stripped of it's teeth at one wheelbox and the other wheelbox was knackered so I replaced the lot. Good as new now.

Just done mine. Replaced the cable and both wheelboxes. It's easy enough if a bit fiddly. There's a guide by Buster on here somewhere.

Simple job. Obtain sides with windows. Unbolt the ones you have and replace with the new ones. Couple of hours on a sunday afternoon including tea breaks.

I've done that a few times. Cut all the front panel away and the whole lot will come out in one. It's still a bit of a struggle because it's big and heavy but it can be done.

When I wanted to do this with my old truck cab I just put a single roof rack bar on the cab roof. Ugly but it worked.

No probs Turboman. He should be able to find some at a reasonable price I've just put two on my 110 for about 150 quid fitted including new tubes. Can't for the life of me remember the make but they're like the old deestone extra traction jobs. Very good in the mud but howl like a banshee at...

205mm is just over 8 inches. 7.50 is 7.5 inches. Add to that the 205 you often see are fitted to disco rims etc which are a wider rim but even on a standard LR steel wheel it'll be a bit wider.

Perhaps you should take a minute to read it again. It clearly only states 205r16 for the 90 models, not the 110.

A 110 will not only look silly with 205/16 on but it will seriously lower your gearing. That size of tyre was never fitted to a 110 at the factory.