Oli67

Member
Hello everyone!

I have a Discovery 2 with 350000 kms. For some time now I've been noticing a ‘rattling’ noise under the vehicle when I accelerate or declutch! I thought it might be the brake calipers, which may be loose. It's nothing of the sort.

I have the impression that the noise disappears when I accelerate or declutch smoothly.

I have the impression that this clatter is coming from under the vehicle. Play in a drive shaft?

If you have any research to suggest...

Many thanks! Olivier
 
I would suggest you get underneath and physically check the propshafts.
Even better take them off and check them, do you ever grease them?
Take one off and drive it in diff lock see if the noise is still there.
 
First of all, a huge thank you to everyone for your help. I'm extremely touched !☺️

As for my place of residence... I juggle between Versailles ( 78 ) and Verneuil-sur-Avre ( 27 ).

So I slipped under my D2 and there's indeed a little play in the double cardan. So I ordered them and will replace them ! I have everything I need in my garage to carry out such a repair. I also noticed that there was no grease nipple on front propshaft body ! ! ! So I put one on and rushed to load up on grease.

I plan to have the repair done next weekend. I'll come back here to keep you posted. And hopefully the noise will be gone !

Another huge thank you to all of you ! It's really nice.
 
First of all, a huge thank you to everyone for your help. I'm extremely touched !☺️

As for my place of residence... I juggle between Versailles ( 78 ) and Verneuil-sur-Avre ( 27 ).

So I slipped under my D2 and there's indeed a little play in the double cardan. So I ordered them and will replace them ! I have everything I need in my garage to carry out such a repair. I also noticed that there was no grease nipple on front propshaft body ! ! ! So I put one on and rushed to load up on grease.

I plan to have the repair done next weekend. I'll come back here to keep you posted. And hopefully the noise will be gone !

Another huge thank you to all of you ! It's really nice.
Glad it would appear that you have solved the problem.

Couldn't easily have gone round to help as you are about 800 kms away from us. ;)

Ton anglais est superbe, en passant!
 
Bonjour de France !

I leaned under the car this morning and I'm asking myself this question. Is it normal for there to be play in the transmission? Because in fact, I have the impression that the knocking is coming from the front axle differential ! I specify this because there is no more bit at the propshaft cardans.

 
Bonjour de France !

I leaned under the car this morning and I'm asking myself this question. Is it normal for there to be play in the transmission? Because in fact, I have the impression that the knocking is coming from the front axle differential ! I specify this because there is no more bit at the propshaft cardans.


Although there is a bit of play I have seen worse.
I'd be tempted to remove the drive flange and see if the nut behind it is done up properly.
Over time the splines in the places where the half shafts meet the centre of the differential wear, the pinion gear can also wear in the crownwheel.
I had this problem in a rear differential, the nut had comes out very loose, but once stripped down and the play checked all I needed to do was tighten the pinion drive nut to the correct torque. Best of luck!
Bonjour de France !

I leaned under the car this morning and I'm asking myself this question. Is it normal for there to be play in the transmission? Because in fact, I have the impression that the knocking is coming from the front axle differential ! I specify this because there is no more bit at the propshaft cardans.


And to answer your first question, yes it is normal to have some play!
 
Hello Stanley !

Are you talking about bolt no. 8?

1752056953729.png
 
I do not know this differential and I cannot see from the pic down the hole where the flange goes. There should be a nut underneath all that, that holds the pinion in mesh with the crown wheel. If there is and I am pretty sure there must be, then that is the one that I had to tighten up.
Before you get to that there may well be a cylinder of metal that is a very tight fit into the neck of the pinion mounting. You need to know how to get that out, the nut I am on about is under that.
But again I do not know this differential.
I think you may need to read the RAVE manual for your model, and I no longer know a site where it can be downloaded for it.
@sierrafery will probably know.
There are others available too I believe.
But number 8 is a bolt not a nut, so no, it won't be that one, although if it is loose it needs tightening.
 
Ok Stanley ! I think I've found the right shema.

If someone can give me a more detailed explanation, or point me in the direction of a link that will explain exactly how to proceed once the transmission has been filed, I'd love to hear from you ! How to access nut no. 11.

I wish you have a lovely afternoon !☀️☀️☀️
1752060811296.png
 
Ok Stanley ! I think I've found the right shema.

If someone can give me a more detailed explanation, or point me in the direction of a link that will explain exactly how to proceed once the transmission has been filed, I'd love to hear from you ! How to access nut no. 11.

I wish you have a lovely afternoon !☀️☀️☀️
View attachment 344979
It looks like you will have to remove the flange the seal (10) always a good idea to replace with new anyway, and all the other stuff you will come across until you can get a socket on the nut.
BUT, before you get to that point use a dial test indicator to measure the play in the gears on the crown wheel with the pinion flange locked solid to something. Get back to us with the measurement and we will be able to tell you if you are wasting your time.
 
Hello ! How do I remove this screw ?

View attachment 345877


Do not remove the flange yet.
As I said above, you need to test the play (jeu) between the pinion and the crown wheel. (pignon et couronne). So it would be better to drain the oil out of the differential holding part of the rear axle.
Slide the two half-shafts out far enough to free the differential off. (You'll need to take wheels, and brakes, brake back plates and discs off and separate the hubs to do this, also disconnect the ABS sensor where its wire is connected to the other part of the wire under the rear wings, do NOT try to remove the sensor. Allow the sensor and its wire to slide out as you pull the hub out, together with the half-shaft out. In fact, if you disconnect the wire from all of its clips you may not need to seperate the two halves of the plug connector.
Then undo the circle of bolts (number 14) that hold it to the axle casing.

You then take it out with the flange in place. You need the flange to be in place so that you can lock it in a vice or something to be able to measure the play.

IF you find there is too much play, then you need to remove the flange etc to be able to adjust the position of the pinion, in mesh with the crownwheel.
Then lift it out of the axle and take it away to do this measurement.

Be aware a differential is quite heavy.

To remove the flange, put two bolts in two of the holes on the flange, from the back preferably, then run a nut down each one, tighten each one up, then put a longish bar of some sort between the two bolts so you can use that to lever against, to hold the flange still while you undo the bolt in the middle.

There are other more brutal ways of doing it!!

Before you get started on all this, check that you know what torque setting is required to tighten things to before you go undoing them. (I take it you do have a torque wrench (clé dynamométrique).

ARE YOU capable of doing all this? I think it takes a bit of experience, and of course the right tools. You will of course require a substantial jack and axle-stands (supports d'essieu). Do NOT work under the vehicle supported only by a jack.

For instance, separating the hub holder from the other part requires you to partially undo each of the 4 bolts then to whack the end of each bolt with a big hammer. After having found the holes where the other end of the bolts sit and squirted easing fluid into each one. You then keep on undoing each one gradually while continuing to whack each one in turn moving diagonally from bolt to bolt, until the hub frees off . Then you can lever it the rest of the way.

You should also clean up each bolt once the hub is separated and then put locking compound on the threads of each one when redoing them back up.

Remember you only have to mve them far enough to disengage the splined ends of the half-shaft from the differential. You do not need to take them right out. This is less risk to the seals in each end of the axle casing.
 
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Thank you so much for these explanations!

Well, I'll simply put everything back together and not attempt this repair. And drive on.

I do have the skills, but I don't have the time... or the desire! I'm used to working on BMWs or VWs. And I've noticed that everything is much better thought out on German cars. More logical. Simpler.

Thank you again for everything, and have a good trip!
 
Thank you so much for these explanations!

Well, I'll simply put everything back together and not attempt this repair. And drive on.

I do have the skills, but I don't have the time... or the desire! I'm used to working on BMWs or VWs. And I've noticed that everything is much better thought out on German cars. More logical. Simpler.

Thank you again for everything, and have a good trip!
Well best of luck!!!

Personally I don't think it is that complicated, I find working on my wife's Aircooled Beetle-based Porsche 356a Speedster replica far more of a pain.
But then it is what you are used to.

I did have a BMW once, an early 528i 4 speed. Great car when it was going. And I had to take its gearbox off just before selling it as the thrust bearing started being noisy!
But the fuel injection system was temperamental. Only liked starting when it was cold, or hot.
Maybe you should get a G-Wagen???!!!
 

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