If you are going to do the wheel bearings yourself you don't need to buy a hugely expensive torque wrench just a long breaker bar, 1/2"drive minimum. (Mine is that and did it OK) and a good strong tube to go over it, like a scaffold pipe, You can use the car's weight or a jack to undo the nut but mine undid with the breaker bar and pipe.
To do it up use your measured body weight standing on the bar-pipe combination at the right place to get it to the right torque.
Easier to calculate, well it was for me, using foot pounds.
I weigh 88 kilos or 193.6 lbs, so if I stood on the 1 foot mark I'd only exert 193.6 ft lbs, so to increase it to the required 362 I had to make a mark 1.89 feet up the bar and stand on it there, until the bar and pipe stopped going round. This has worked fine on all three bearings I have changed and don't forget to get new stake nuts and stake them once done!
To separate the hub from the rest of it, undo the bolts a wee bit then clout the heads of all of them in turn with a good beefy hammer until it starts to move, no need to pry it apart in the tiny, more or less non-existent gap. Just keep undoing them a bit more and clouting it a bit more. Also spray separating fluid in the bolt holes and on the threaded ends of the bolts. The bolts are tight to begin with as they have threadlock on them, you should get new ones with the hub kit. If you don't use the old ones with thread lock on them after giving them a good clean.
And be very careful with threading the wheel speed sensor wires through, don't remove them from the new hubs that'll possibly get you into a world of trouble.
To do it up use your measured body weight standing on the bar-pipe combination at the right place to get it to the right torque.
Easier to calculate, well it was for me, using foot pounds.
I weigh 88 kilos or 193.6 lbs, so if I stood on the 1 foot mark I'd only exert 193.6 ft lbs, so to increase it to the required 362 I had to make a mark 1.89 feet up the bar and stand on it there, until the bar and pipe stopped going round. This has worked fine on all three bearings I have changed and don't forget to get new stake nuts and stake them once done!
To separate the hub from the rest of it, undo the bolts a wee bit then clout the heads of all of them in turn with a good beefy hammer until it starts to move, no need to pry it apart in the tiny, more or less non-existent gap. Just keep undoing them a bit more and clouting it a bit more. Also spray separating fluid in the bolt holes and on the threaded ends of the bolts. The bolts are tight to begin with as they have threadlock on them, you should get new ones with the hub kit. If you don't use the old ones with thread lock on them after giving them a good clean.
And be very careful with threading the wheel speed sensor wires through, don't remove them from the new hubs that'll possibly get you into a world of trouble.
