awkwardbob
Well-Known Member
Well, I’m not going anywhere or testing anything for a while. The kids have just locked the keys in the boot. My spare key is in a bag… in the car.
I could scream
I could scream
Can things get much worse? It is possible to pull up the door release with a suitable length of stiff wire, coat hangers are OK or welding rod.Well, I’m not going anywhere or testing anything for a while. The kids have just locked the keys in the boot. My spare key is in a bag… in the car.
I could scream
.Can things get much worse? It is possible to pull up the door release with a suitable length of stiff wire, coat hangers are OK or welding rod.
Ooer, @Jon Dor pull that post down pleasedrama or damage.
Once you're in the car and have unlocked the driver door, that then feeds the tailgate with power to open. Good luck...you need an antidote to the run of bad luck you've been victim to.I have to laugh… or I’ll cry…
ive got the RAC on speed dial so we’ll see if they can gain access - I’ll then need a kid to wriggle through to the boot as I’m not doing it, well, for many reasons, not least I’ve cracked two ribs by sneezing.
I’d rather spend the £137 for a replacement key towards a new viscous coupling -or rum
I concurreMark, you'll have to edit your reply to the post I've already removed too!
If the VCU has seized partially or completely, the front tyres scrub when turning.Keys liberated by handy RAC man with a long bendy rod...
One thing occurred to me.... On Saturday, while the world was still Rosy, I had a noise when steering, initially I thought it was the front wheels rubbing, then when I checked that wasn't the case, I wondered if it might be the Power steering struggling a little. Could this have been the 'Transmission Wind Up' @Datatek mentioned due to the potentially seized VC ?
I check the VCU's on mine at every 6K mile service.Then I bet that’s what it was, sounded like the power steering was struggling to turn the wheels or the tyres were rubbing -a handy symptom to look out for in future !
Just one VCU, it sits across the front and rear output shafts to effectively lock the diff when traction is lost at one end.Fair point.
I’ll be doing that regularly too from now on to avoid any more expensive consequential damage !
Am I right in thinking there’s just the one feeding the front prop or is there one going to the rear too ?
I prefer a 32mm socket on the hub nut. Set the torque wrench to 70nm and see if you can slowly tease the wheel round. If you can't without it clicking dial it up another 10nm and try again. See how far up you get.
I looked at doing the viscous, then thought I would refurb the whole transfer box while I was about it and then thought sod it and got a refurbed one off Ashcrofts. Check they've polished the output flange though or it will chew through the new seals and leak into the handbrake.
I've driven almost 100 miles with only rear propshaft. If I remember correctly, William only charged me about £40 for replacement. As I'd recently had a heart attack, he fitted the replacement for peanuts and I drove away within an hour of arriving in 4x4 mode.I think I’ve sort of come to the same conclusion. A refurbed VC is £330 if anything else in the transfer box is shot it’s going to be a better bet to do the whole thing for £745…
It’ll need to wait until at least next month though. (Ribs and wallet !)
Can I just double check, if I remove the front prop shaft is it safe to drive it 30 miles or so ? (Effectively rear wheel drive)
There’s nothing that wouldn’t work correctly is there ? ABS, etc ? And even if the diff is shot, it won’t do more damage will it ?
thanks again
Bob