Well, I’m not going anywhere or testing anything for a while. The kids have just locked the keys in the boot. My spare key is in a bag… in the car.

I could scream
 
Well, I’m not going anywhere or testing anything for a while. The kids have just locked the keys in the boot. My spare key is in a bag… in the car.

I could scream
Can things get much worse? It is possible to pull up the door release with a suitable length of stiff wire, coat hangers are OK or welding rod.
 
I have to laugh… or I’ll cry…

ive got the RAC on speed dial so we’ll see if they can gain access - I’ll then need a kid to wriggle through to the boot as I’m not doing it, well, for many reasons, not least I’ve cracked two ribs by sneezing.

I’d rather spend the £137 for a replacement key towards a new viscous coupling -or rum
 
Shall do, but I thought it to be equivalent to use of welding rod or wire and that all comments went via moderator. I'm also sure I was advised about quarterlight by a fellow forumite on here.
 
I have to laugh… or I’ll cry…

ive got the RAC on speed dial so we’ll see if they can gain access - I’ll then need a kid to wriggle through to the boot as I’m not doing it, well, for many reasons, not least I’ve cracked two ribs by sneezing.

I’d rather spend the £137 for a replacement key towards a new viscous coupling -or rum
Once you're in the car and have unlocked the driver door, that then feeds the tailgate with power to open. Good luck...you need an antidote to the run of bad luck you've been victim to.
 
Keys liberated by handy RAC man with a long bendy rod...

One thing occurred to me.... On Saturday, while the world was still Rosy, I had a noise when steering, initially I thought it was the front wheels rubbing, then when I checked that wasn't the case, I wondered if it might be the Power steering struggling a little. Could this have been the 'Transmission Wind Up' @Datatek mentioned due to the potentially seized VC ?
 
Keys liberated by handy RAC man with a long bendy rod...

One thing occurred to me.... On Saturday, while the world was still Rosy, I had a noise when steering, initially I thought it was the front wheels rubbing, then when I checked that wasn't the case, I wondered if it might be the Power steering struggling a little. Could this have been the 'Transmission Wind Up' @Datatek mentioned due to the potentially seized VC ?
If the VCU has seized partially or completely, the front tyres scrub when turning.
 
Then I bet that’s what it was, sounded like the power steering was struggling to turn the wheels or the tyres were rubbing -a handy symptom to look out for in future !
 
Fair point.

I’ll be doing that regularly too from now on to avoid any more expensive consequential damage !

Am I right in thinking there’s just the one feeding the front prop or is there one going to the rear too ?
 
Centre diff001.jpg
Fair point.

I’ll be doing that regularly too from now on to avoid any more expensive consequential damage !

Am I right in thinking there’s just the one feeding the front prop or is there one going to the rear too ?
Just one VCU, it sits across the front and rear output shafts to effectively lock the diff when traction is lost at one end.
Diagram shows the centre diff and the splines that the VCU sits across.
 
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Thanks !
I’m gathering tools and parts but I may have to wait until my ribs heal a bit before crawling underneath again. It’s all
I can do to get up
Of the sofa at the moment !
 
I prefer a 32mm socket on the hub nut. Set the torque wrench to 70nm and see if you can slowly tease the wheel round. If you can't without it clicking dial it up another 10nm and try again. See how far up you get.

I looked at doing the viscous, then thought I would refurb the whole transfer box while I was about it and then thought sod it and got a refurbed one off Ashcrofts. Check they've polished the output flange though or it will chew through the new seals and leak into the handbrake.
 
I prefer a 32mm socket on the hub nut. Set the torque wrench to 70nm and see if you can slowly tease the wheel round. If you can't without it clicking dial it up another 10nm and try again. See how far up you get.

I looked at doing the viscous, then thought I would refurb the whole transfer box while I was about it and then thought sod it and got a refurbed one off Ashcrofts. Check they've polished the output flange though or it will chew through the new seals and leak into the handbrake.

I think I’ve sort of come to the same conclusion. A refurbed VC is £330 if anything else in the transfer box is shot it’s going to be a better bet to do the whole thing for £745…

It’ll need to wait until at least next month though. (Ribs and wallet !)

Can I just double check, if I remove the front prop shaft is it safe to drive it 30 miles or so ? (Effectively rear wheel drive)

There’s nothing that wouldn’t work correctly is there ? ABS, etc ? And even if the diff is shot, it won’t do more damage will it ?

thanks again

Bob
 
I think I’ve sort of come to the same conclusion. A refurbed VC is £330 if anything else in the transfer box is shot it’s going to be a better bet to do the whole thing for £745…

It’ll need to wait until at least next month though. (Ribs and wallet !)

Can I just double check, if I remove the front prop shaft is it safe to drive it 30 miles or so ? (Effectively rear wheel drive)

There’s nothing that wouldn’t work correctly is there ? ABS, etc ? And even if the diff is shot, it won’t do more damage will it ?

thanks again

Bob
I've driven almost 100 miles with only rear propshaft. If I remember correctly, William only charged me about £40 for replacement. As I'd recently had a heart attack, he fitted the replacement for peanuts and I drove away within an hour of arriving in 4x4 mode.
 

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