dkl1971

dkl1971

Active Member
Ever since I've had my car its had the dreaded death wobble on and off. It started on my drive home from collecting it. I had lots of things checked, Panhard rods, geometry, steering damper but it came down to the swivel preloads. This was 2 years or so ago at least.
It ran fine for a good while but last year it was coming back so I had the preloads checked again and was informed that there was very little adjustment left. Most of the shims were already out. So I sent it in last week with a new bearing kit for both sides assuming it would be a done deal and sorted but driving it today if anything its worse.
Up to 40 its fine. Over 50 almost any bump sends the damn thing off. A sharp input of steering can usually settle it but its a real pain. I daren't take it on the motorway.
So any ideas. Bit miffed but I suppose the garage did what I asked them to do and change the bearings - they did say they were shot.
 
When I got my p38 I had a bit of a wobble on the stearing had the suspension and bearings checked had to change both front tyres because of inside wear
When he came to balance the wheels he found one had over 300 grams of weight on it so he took the off and it only needed 15 grams of weight now the wobble has gone
 
So long as geometry is right and there is no obvious play on the track rod ends or steering rack / joints, its usually tyres and wheel balance thats out.
Had a car years ago that seemed ok until it hit a pothole then hell it went crazy!.
Got new tyres and balanced and was fine..admit it had **** remoulds on it originally...
 
On reflection it does have 255 on which are too big but only cause issues when on full lock.
I've got a set of winters which are 235 so I could try those.

Can the tyres really make that much difference?
 
Last edited:
Just cures this in my p38 and after changing everything on the front end it was.............tyre balance £10 sorted. Doh!
 
dont bother..its the preload..
its the preload

preload

me av 72 ..running 31's no wobbles..cos i set the preload properly.

find a decent landy garage if you not doing yourself..one you got obviously is not..ie they not even road tested it..
dont tell me they have, cos if they have thats even worse!

but its the preload..ask, no tell them to set it up properly
 
YOREVOL said:
is the preload now right? should be 12lbs of pull with the steering arms disconnected iirc.
Click to expand...

Not sure about that pre-load figure of 12lbs - thats what, 5.5Kg. According to the workshop manual, resistance should be 1.16Kg - 1.46Kg on a non-ABS axle without the wiper seal and stub axle etc.

For an ABS axle, 1990 preload should be 0.18mm - 0.23mm without wiper seal and stub axle and the torque to turn lock to lock should be 5.1Nm - 7.3Nm.

For 1991 on, ABS axle, preload should be 0.25mm - 0.30mm, torque to turn 2.0Nm - 2.8Nm.

So as you can see, you need to know which axle you have before you can set the pre-load, but I would tend to agree with Zen that the pre-load is probably incorrect but it is easy enough to check.

HTH
 
classic kev said:
Not sure about that pre-load figure of 12lbs - thats what, 5.5Kg. According to the workshop manual, resistance should be 1.16Kg - 1.46Kg on a non-ABS axle without the wiper seal and stub axle etc.

For an ABS axle, 1990 preload should be 0.18mm - 0.23mm without wiper seal and stub axle and the torque to turn lock to lock should be 5.1Nm - 7.3Nm.

For 1991 on, ABS axle, preload should be 0.25mm - 0.30mm, torque to turn 2.0Nm - 2.8Nm.

So as you can see, you need to know which axle you have before you can set the pre-load, but I would tend to agree with Zen that the pre-load is probably incorrect but it is easy enough to check.

HTH
Click to expand...

no 12 about right..no one strips it all down to check..imagine the garage bill!!
just remove ball joints and 12 is ok..(if memory sreves me)
 
zen said:
no 12 about right..no one strips it all down to check..imagine the garage bill!!
just remove ball joints and 12 is ok..(if memory sreves me)
Click to expand...

Maybe, but if you're doing it yourself why not set it up as it was intended to be? If all else fails then you can crank it up for a 12lb pull but I'm guessing that is with a fully built up hub on the end with the stub axle, CV joint, wiper seal and all.
 
12lb is far too much for any swivel apart from defender rialko bush and pin type ,2-3 lbs is correct for double bearing non abs type and abs type ,if theres no play in swivel tightening further to reduce wheel wobble is only compensating for another issue
 
Right all finally sorted. Steering box play and some (more) panhard rod bushes.
Much better now.
Thanks all.
 
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