chrisyleigh
Active Member
Well now ive found a 72w led light bar i like would that still be fine with the 2x 55w lights aswell
so 182w in total
182/12 = 15.17 amps
as long as your cable thickness is at least 2.5mm, rated for 20+ amps, and the fuse is 20 amps. then you should be good.
obviously i don't know your full setup, so you need to check
you did say 4 55s before though. if they all go down one wire at some point, then that wire needs to be rated.
(4*55+72)/12=24.34 amps.
make sure the wire can cope with 30amps (4mm) and the fuse is 30.
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chrisyleigh
Active Member
182/12 = 15.17 amps
as long as your cable thickness is at least 2.5mm, rated for 20+ amps, and the fuse is 20 amps. then you should be good.
obviously i don't know your full setup, so you need to check
you did say 4 55s before though. if they all go down one wire at some point, then that wire needs to be rated.
(4*55+72)/12=24.34 amps.
make sure the wire can cope with 30amps (4mm) and the fuse is 30.
Ive set them up in pairs , insides and outsides
2 relays
2switchs
2 powers
ect ect
but only one earth for all 4 spots :/ So think ill change that to be safe
the wiring im unsure on amps as i bought them as a wiring kit with a relay ect , 2 kits
ill have to look into it , im sure theres a 15amp inline fuse in each power ti relay tho
thanks again
ah right. then for that one pair+led, just make sure the wires are 2.5mm/rated 20+amp. that's from the batt to the lights. and change the fuse to a 20.
if it's a single wire earth you've connected to all the lamps, then make sure it is 4mm/rated 30amp+.
i think if you look at it, you'll find that the wires supplied should cope. probably just need to swap the fuse out.
brettguise
New Member
Can I tap into the ignition live under the steering wheel were would I be looking? Also the cig lighter I presume I don't get that from behind the unit but get that by the fuse board under the steering wheel? Bit useless at locating wires lol.
turn the ign on and start licking the wire terminals.
going from a thread on here. stick your multi on this term and see if it's ign (i have a trattor)
chrisyleigh
Active Member
Cheers trax
brettguise
New Member
turn the ign on and start licking the wire terminals.
going from a thread on here. stick your multi on this term and see if it's ign (i have a trattor)
That is indeed ignition. No risks running off there with a spade connector is there? If not it's right there to do.
brettguise
New Member
Mr Noisy requested to see the switch and relay so here they are.
Switch, middle green wire is from the relay to the switch, black wire is from the headlight main beam feed to the switch on position one, the other switch on position two had the blue wire from the radio running to it. Just wrapped a little tape around the one wire as the spade connector isnt insulated.
The second photo showing the relay, black wire (white tape) with spade connector again uninsulated so wrapped some tape round to be safe is from the lights on the light bar, plugged into the accessory position on the relay.
Red wire is the live going to the battery with a blade fuse holder along the line.
Green wire through the bulkhead to the middle position on my switch.
Black wire with the white plastic case insulating the spade connector is earthed on a bolt on the car with another earth on it, just undid the nut added that earth to it and bolted it back up.
Switch, middle green wire is from the relay to the switch, black wire is from the headlight main beam feed to the switch on position one, the other switch on position two had the blue wire from the radio running to it. Just wrapped a little tape around the one wire as the spade connector isnt insulated.
The second photo showing the relay, black wire (white tape) with spade connector again uninsulated so wrapped some tape round to be safe is from the lights on the light bar, plugged into the accessory position on the relay.
Red wire is the live going to the battery with a blade fuse holder along the line.
Green wire through the bulkhead to the middle position on my switch.
Black wire with the white plastic case insulating the spade connector is earthed on a bolt on the car with another earth on it, just undid the nut added that earth to it and bolted it back up.
brettguise
New Member
87 - black/white tape(lights)
30 - red(fused to bat)
86 - green(switch)
85 - black (earth)
to make it easier
did the ign from the fusebox not work then
Thats how my relay is wired.
I haven't had time to wire it up yet I believe it will work, Mr Noisy was a bit stumped as to why the radio live didn't work so suggested I might have had the switch or relay wrong but im sure its right. I think my radio wiring might be a bit dodgy and maybe that's the only problem and there isn't in fact any problem with my wiring haha.
Tuskenraider
New Member
So is that a 3 pos switch i.e on-off-on ?
i cba working out your radio, so wanted to bypass it.
they are usually the first bits of a vehicles wiring to get the bodge treatment, so best skipping it imo.
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
Yeah it looks ok
was concerned you may not have had the switch wired properly, with the centre/common pin being the green wire to the relay
it is weird that the switched live to the radio doesnt work though, normally that would be fused at 7.5 or 10 amps so should have a bother supplying the relay aswell
was worried it may have been grounding but tbh it would have blown the fuse anyway
so, hmmmm, any ideas yet?
was concerned you may not have had the switch wired properly, with the centre/common pin being the green wire to the relay
it is weird that the switched live to the radio doesnt work though, normally that would be fused at 7.5 or 10 amps so should have a bother supplying the relay aswell
was worried it may have been grounding but tbh it would have blown the fuse anyway
so, hmmmm, any ideas yet?
brettguise
New Member
Yes thats right, On permanently so I can have all lights on, off all together not even with main beam and on when main beam is on.
i cba working out your radio, so wanted to bypass it.
they are usually the first bits of a vehicles wiring to get the bodge treatment, so best skipping it imo.
Lets bypass it lol.
My fuse board for the radio was 10 amps, there's also a fuse in the back of the radio at 15 amps.
I think ill go ahead and wire it to the 1 position on the fuse board and try that, the lights are working fine at the minute to the main beam and I haven't had any issues. Introducing the live again from another source should hopefully fix it.
I thank everybody for there help hopefully some of the pictures in the topic are useful to people and should I have more problems once wired I will torch the car and buy another.
:amen:
