It's a tough one, I fully get your point and it's like a safety feature, key off=all off

But in practice it can be annoying and you should just use more discipline!

I suppose I am talking from the twin battery perspective though so yes I guess safety first when on one battery.

Even better could have a huge relay that only sends power to other aux relays when alternator is charging.

And it wouldn't be difficult to rehash that by only altering a couple of wires into a twin battery split charge system

I took the view that I should fit twin battery straight away for future proofing!
 
Ok right ill use all that advice and see how well I can string them all together. Ill upload a picture as soon as I have some time to get to an electrical store for the odd bits to sort it.

I have a new set of professional crimp tool for sale :)
 
I have a new set of professional crimp tool for sale :)

Ive just ordered a soldering iron so that and a pair of pliers should do me!

:crazy_driver:

Hopefully do a bit the weekend, ordered some wire, three way switch and my soldering iron. Ill try take some pictures along the way so people can laugh at my efforts.

:hurt:
 
Ive just ordered a soldering iron so that and a pair of pliers should do me!

Don't solder wire then crimp it btw (and pls don't use pliers). if you try to solder crimps, then they might need a good roughing up first and then tin them.
 
The key to good soldering is good solder.

The cheap stuff is **** and does not solder.

The expensive stuff is about 6 quid for a 200g roll.

Beware!
 
The way i done mine on weekend was using them 3way blade connectors , they did the trick well but looking back i should off just put 2 wires into the one crimp , i might go and change it to neaten it up , but the 3ways are alright for now
 
Also quick question guys i have 4 55w spots on roof , set up in pairs ,
on the middle pair can i use the same relay ect and tap into the power and neg on a 18w mini led light bar ? ? Or will i have to do a whole other set up off relay and switch ect?
 
So guys I wired mine up, slight problem later on though, Ill show you the pictures then somebody can tell me where I went slightly wrong. It all worked fine to start with!

Cut the bullet connectors off all the live wires, used one long cable rated 30 amp and soldered all the lights to it in a parallel? Did the same for the earth. (Will change cable ties for black when I buy some, used clear for the meantime to keep it tidy.)

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Run the live wire down the windscreen trim.

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Earthed the lights to the light bar bolt, works fine that way was originally going to run it to the negative but realised I couldn't squash two wires down the same side windscreen trim. If that fails I shall solder a wire to the passenger side earth and run that down into the engine bay on the passenger windscreen trim.

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Ran the live from the battery to the relay, lights down to the relay, earth off the relay screwed to the body using an existing earth point behind the battery and a wire from the relay for the switch through the grommit in the bulkhead, couldn't find the best way to get it through so made a tiny incision and slotted the wire through.

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Wire through the grommit by the pedals (Ignored the quick bodged patch there)

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Then up by the fuse box and to the switch by my instrument panel.

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I then tapped into the main headlight beam from behind the drivers side lamp, blue and orange cable, soldered a wire from that also through the grommit to the switch inside the cab.

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So now I have the switch in place with the off and then flick it to the first on position when I put my main beam on the lights come on.

I wanted a three way switch so then this is where I may have made the mistake?

I ran a wire from the radio as the 12v feed, I tested the ride wire behind the radio which appeared to be the ignition live. It wasnt live when the ignition wasn't on but it became live when the ignition was turned. I ran a cable from that behind the dash to the second on position of the switch.

My red wire had a spur off with a female bullet and a cap on it. I took the cap off and wired a bullet from the spur from the switch to the 12v feed. I dont know if red was the correct colour?

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It all appeared to work fine, when switched the lights would come on, when off the switch was killed and the lights didn't come on and when in the main beam on position they activated when my main beam was on.

Picture of them working : P

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Now for the problem, after driving on the night I had my car off, I went to turn it back on and as I turned the key the whole lights tripped in the car, the radio however was left flickering like It was about to die lol. I tried it one more time and still nothing. I pulled my radio out, disconnected my 12v feed. Tried the car still nothing.

I disconnected the live from the battery and changed the in line fuse to the battery that was a 15amp fuse, I changed that for a 30amp fuse? I cleaned the battery terminal and re connected the eye connector. Without the 12v from the radio connected still the car fired up fine and has done this morning. What could have caused the car to trip like that and not start? Once I have fixed this teething problem all seems good.

Last question the solder outside from the lights I wrapped in a bit of electrical tape. Does rain have any effect on solder and any slightly exposed wires as obviously with the solder I cannot make this 100% waterproof. I have heard about vaseline on the contacts but is there any danger here with water and the lights?

Cheers

Brett.
 
Also quick question guys i have 4 55w spots on roof , set up in pairs ,
on the middle pair can i use the same relay ect and tap into the power and neg on a 18w mini led light bar ? ? Or will i have to do a whole other set up off relay and switch ect?

you can check your wire ratings/relay and fuse, but it's an extra 1.5 amp.. should be fine.
 
Once I have fixed this teething problem all seems good.

Last question the solder outside from the lights I wrapped in a bit of electrical tape. Does rain have any effect on solder and any slightly exposed wires as obviously with the solder I cannot make this 100% waterproof. I have heard about vaseline on the contacts but is there any danger here with water and the lights?

Cheers

Brett.

you have 6 lights on the single wire and nothing else? check the wattage, but say they are 55w

(55*6)/12 = 27.5 amp

so you need a 30 amp fuse.. also don't go adding anything else to that wire, it's maxed.

your soldering looks clumpy.. be fine though :) stick silicon grease, vaseline or some soft plastic putty on it.

looking good. :)
 
you have 6 lights on the single wire and nothing else? check the wattage, but say they are 55w

(55*6)/12 = 27.5 amp

so you need a 30 amp fuse.. also don't go adding anything else to that wire, it's maxed.

your soldering looks clumpy.. be fine though :) stick silicon grease, vaseline or some soft plastic putty on it.

looking good. :)

Never soldered before I just whacked it on :D You should see my welding thats as bad.

So the reason the whole car was tripping and not starting would be the fuse and that would cause the radio to blink and flash when the whole of the car went dead? I must admit when it happened I thought about your diagram of me burning inside the car for a second.

Ill stick vaseline all over them.
 
Never soldered before I just whacked it on :D You should see my welding thats as bad.
that's what youtube is for :D

So the reason the whole car was tripping and not starting would be the fuse and that would cause the radio to blink and flash when the whole of the car went dead?
whoops, didn't see that

I must admit when it happened I thought about your diagram of me burning inside the car for a second.

:pound:

think i need a cup of tea and reread that again ;)
 
So, you treied to turn the engine on. no lights were switched on. and nothing happened at all? engine didn't try to turn. but your dash light all went out?

had the 15amp fuse actually blown?
 
I tried to turn the engine on first I turned the ignition and the glow plugs etc lighted on the dash at this point I hadnt turned my car lights on. I went to start the engine and as I turned the key the car died, the dash lights like the hand brake etc all died and the radio was faintly flashing as the only power. I then tried to turn the key again and still dead. 30 seconds passed and power came back to the car but tripped again when I turned the key.

Then as I say first I disconnected the permanent live from the switch to the radio red wire? Is that the wrong wire?

Still nothing.

Removed the live from the relay to battery cleaned the contact on the battery and returned and changed fuse from 15 to 30. As its some cheap in line fuse holder when I pulled the fuse it broke anyway so couldn't check if it had gone.

I then got back in the car and its started fine since then but I haven't connected my wire from the red of the stereo back to my switch yet and I completed disconnected my stereo for the meantime. I think its something from the stereo to the switch but might be wrong?
 
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I tried to turn the engine on first I turned the ignition and the glow plugs etc lighted on the dash at this point I hadnt turned my car lights on. I went to start the engine and as I turned the key the car died, the dash lights like the hand brake etc all died and the radio was faintly flashing as the only power. I then tried to turn the key again and still dead. 30 seconds passed and power came back to the car but tripped again when I turned the key.

Then as I say first I disconnected the permanent live from the switch to the radio red wire? Is that the wrong wire?

Still nothing.

Removed the live from the relay to battery cleaned the contact on the battery and returned and changed fuse from 15 to 30. As its some cheap in line fuse holder when I pulled the fuse it broke anyway so couldn't check if it had gone.

I then got back in the car and its started fine since then but I haven't connected my wire from the red of the stereo back to my switch yet and I completed disconnected my stereo for the meantime. I think its something from the stereo to the switch but might be wrong?

ok. let's just eliminate one circuit.

wire the switch back up to the relay and main beam, but leave the radio out. set the switch to off. everything should work/turn over and no lights on the roof.

flick it to on (main) and you should have lights on the roof when you switch your main lights on.

if that's all correct, then it's just the radio wire. post back :)
 
ok. let's just eliminate one circuit.

wire the switch back up to the relay and main beam, but leave the radio out. set the switch to off. everything should work/turn over and no lights on the roof.

flick it to on (main) and you should have lights on the roof when you switch your main lights on.

if that's all correct, then it's just the radio wire. post back :)

Thats what Ive done already, the engine starts and then if I switch the switch to main and pop my main beam on it all works fine.

The radio wire as on my image is from the red wire and I have just attached a bullet connector from the slot that was already there. I think the other live is the Yellow. Maybe I have spurred off the wrong wire or that connector is faulty or something :scratching_chin:
 
Thats what Ive done already, the engine starts and then if I switch the switch to main and pop my main beam on it all works fine.

The radio wire as on my image is from the red wire and I have just attached a bullet connector from the slot that was already there. I think the other live is the Yellow. Maybe I have spurred off the wrong wire or that connector is faulty or something :scratching_chin:

yeah, i'd be a bit suspect about that red wire. Try and find a nice thick white one (probably has a red stripe on it) and make sure that's ign live.
 

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