Hippo said:
Mains driven only I think. I only do it 2 or 3 times a year in the winter months at the most. Mine cost £40 from argos. If it's too small it'll do fek all.
Click to expand...
if you have a good inverter, you could run one in the car but make sure your inverter is bigger out put than the humidifier takes to run it also if you get into your car when it is cold open a window a bit as your breath will mist up the windows, and as previous you can get a 12volt hair dryer .
 
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luke warm water turn it on and the heater have a brew job done, vasaline on back door window rubber ooer, its the bloody drips from the removable sunroof that bugs me..
 
You would need a lot of amps at 12v to power even the smallest of hair dryers via an inverter. Inverter would need to be connected directly to the battery rather than fag socket. The time it would take a dehumidifier to work its magic would easily flatten a car battery so if running one of these off an inverter you would need the engine running. So you might was well run the engine and wait 5 mins for the heater to be warm and use that. Annoying I know.
 
Clean and dry the windows inside, smear neat washing up liquid on them and let it dry. This will stop the condensation.
Make sure the inside air is as cold as the air outside before locking it up for the night.

should be sorted.
 
Hippo said:
You would need a lot of amps at 12v to power even the smallest of hair dryers via an inverter. Inverter would need to be connected directly to the battery rather than fag socket. The time it would take a dehumidifier to work its magic would easily flatten a car battery so if running one of these off an inverter you would need the engine running. So you might was well run the engine and wait 5 mins for the heater to be warm and use that. Annoying I know.
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Seen some 12volt hair dryers on e bay but expect they would be next to useless at 168 watt - my breath would prob be hotter ... an inverter would be good for a mains one but who wants to be under the bonnet attaching crock clips / cables to the battery on a freezing cold morning ..it was just an idea that I hadn't really looked into cheers.
 
WLJayne said:
Do you have air con? I assume not, but for anyone reading with aircon, switch it on while you're blowing hot air and engage the cabin air circulator. This will dry out the air in the cabin and help reduce fogging.
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Do freelander make hot air? Mine make slightly warm air, that sometimes goes cold when you stop at the lights.

10 minutes to get the frozen screen clear is good going, for my car at least.
 
in 10 mins it should be very hot..:mad2:
the lower half of the screen steams if you put water on it,,
its from about 1/2 way up I struggle to clear,
as the heat dissipates as it goes up the screen:(
 
you could allways try the small dehumidifiers you can get from the pound shop, 2 or three under the seats may help and its only the cost of a pint!
 
My Freelander heater gives out hot air at 58 to 60 degrees. Leave the engine on tick over and it will happily get to 40+ degrees without moving. Problem is the time to wait. 4 minutes seem like forever. As said above it's the top half of the screen we have trouble with due to the direction of the blower. I put the air on recirculate was it's warmer in the car, when compared to outside. This helps it clear betterer quicker as the air intake int so cold, so the matrix has a more noticeable effect.
 
Might sound daft but open your sunroof onto the vent or back window a crack and put fans to 3 and heater on and it'll soon clear and as ?trewey said, leave a window open a crack to equalise the temperature.
 
Thanks. I keep the sun roof and rear window closed when ice is about as you never know. But I will try opening side windows and see if that helps.
 
Interesting thread.

Condense build up is a right pain in me jeep too. Especially on a rainy day. I like the idea of equalising temperature inside the car before you lock up for the night.

:D
 
I was thinking about getting a set of the wind deflectors for the doors,
so I could leave the windows slightly open and no one can see that they are.
and the rain wont get in either...

Only question is if I locked the car with the windows slightly open would the alarm
still function properly??
 
Only question is if I locked the car with the windows slightly open would the alarm
still function properly??
Click to expand...


yeah ..

but if you lock it via the fob ..

just make sure that there's nothing to rustle about in any wind-draft ..
as that can set the alarm off .. via the internal movement sensor

~~~~~

i've wind deflectors .. 'n have left windows cracked open in summer
there be a portable 12v sound system in the back ( hippo 'van ') ..
there's an accoustic 'curtain' covering the lot ..
if i leave the windows slightly open .. it can rustle about in the wind
and trigger the alarm if it's been fob-locked ..
stray flying insects getting inside can also set it off
though .. unlikely to happen in winter :)
 
Hi I'm newish on here, and to owning a freelander TD4.
I have bad condensation.
So far I have taken it to the car wash to look for leaks, and can't find any.
I replaced the pollen filter, which has made a massive difference to the amount of air going up the front screen, so that now clears quicker.
I was told the pollen filter was under the plenum so removed the wipers etc, and obviously didn't find the filter as it's in the passenger footwell, all laugh now...
but I did notice that the seal at the top of the plenum that goes to the windscreen looks like it leaks as there were dirty water run marks on the panel underneath.
Does anyone think that could be where the damp is coming from?
My next thought is to leave the windows slightly open, and I was thinking of getting some wind deflectors, so the rain doesn't get in and it's not obvious that the windows are open.
Has anyone any advice on the best ones to get?
I have seen ones that fasten to the outside of the door and ones that fit in the window track.
 
I have a set of these and I'm happy to recommend them.
Click to expand...

seconded :)


( i also use rain-x between them and the glass .. as it's acts as a glass lubricant
( hoping to save the window cables from stress .. although i understand it's rust
( that usually gets them in the end ..
 
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