Hope these attachments help. (but are taken from a manual for left hand drive). Looking at the page for Principles of Operation, the starter relay is energised if the vehicle gets a valid mobilised signal. As your starter motor is working, I would say the vehicle is not immobilised and you should be looking elsewhere for the problem.
Thanks wimblowdriver.
I’ve decided to leave it a few days it’s doing my head in. Went out this morning battery totally drained like my love for defenders at present. Went out and bought a noncom booster which aren’t cheap.
It might surprise me and turn over a new leaf for new year. Well I’m hoping so.
I’ve decided to leave it a few days it’s doing my head in. Went out this morning battery totally drained like my love for defenders at present. Went out and bought a noncom booster which aren’t cheap.
It might surprise me and turn over a new leaf for new year. Well I’m hoping so.
You might need to re-synchronise your key fob if the battery is dead or if you disconnect it for charging. Easy enough to do, have you got the handbook (its in there)?
Been thinking about the OP's problem, which started after a refuel. Something is inhibiting starting, but not the immobiliser as the engine cranks over. I have the handbook for the 2.2tdci and there is a paragraph in there regarding running out of fuel (assuming the 2.4 has the same characteristics). If the fuel level falls below a minimum level the engine runs at reduced power, followed by the engine stopping. After refuelling it has to be restarted with the following procedure;
1. With the brake pedal depressed, turn and hold the engine start key and crank the engine for 5 seconds.
2. Release the key.
3. With the brake pedal still depressed, turn the key and crank the engine. The engine should start within approximately 5 seconds.
If the engine does not start, pause for 10 seconds and repeat. Do not crank for more than 30 seconds or damage to the fuel pump may occur.
A long shot but worth a try?
Another item to look at is the Overide Inertia Switch located on the bulkhead, which might have been activated and may need resetting, or its fuse might need replacing. (This cuts off the fuel supply (via the ECU) in the event of a collision). Again, a long shot but worth checking.
1. With the brake pedal depressed, turn and hold the engine start key and crank the engine for 5 seconds.
2. Release the key.
3. With the brake pedal still depressed, turn the key and crank the engine. The engine should start within approximately 5 seconds.
If the engine does not start, pause for 10 seconds and repeat. Do not crank for more than 30 seconds or damage to the fuel pump may occur.
A long shot but worth a try?
Another item to look at is the Overide Inertia Switch located on the bulkhead, which might have been activated and may need resetting, or its fuse might need replacing. (This cuts off the fuel supply (via the ECU) in the event of a collision). Again, a long shot but worth checking.
Hi guys happy new year to you all.
I will look for this inertia switch where is it located exactly. I’ve tried to bypass immobiliser no joy. Yes correct fuel. The way it stands now is since the battery drain. We have ignition lights and it cranks for a second then nothing. The battery has been boosted and sitting at 12.49 volts.
I think since the battery drain the immobiliser as kicked in but I also now think I have two problems the immobiliser and a fuel starvation issue.
I will look for this inertia switch where is it located exactly. I’ve tried to bypass immobiliser no joy. Yes correct fuel. The way it stands now is since the battery drain. We have ignition lights and it cranks for a second then nothing. The battery has been boosted and sitting at 12.49 volts.
I think since the battery drain the immobiliser as kicked in but I also now think I have two problems the immobiliser and a fuel starvation issue.
If it cranks, dash lights work etc it is NOT immobilised. I suggested previously, you might need to resynchronise the key fob after a vehicle battery failure.
Quick up date for you guys that have been so helpful.
The glow plug relay had jammed on which we discovered is draining the battery and a couple of glow plugs aren’t working.
The engine is turning over but not firing up. Fuel rail has pressure but injectors aren’t injecting conclusion is the car is immobilised and has a faulty AS10 which isn’t allowing ECU to be reset. So the ECU is being flashed to remove the immobiliser and new alarm immobiliser will be installed once we get her running. Slowly moving forward hopefully in the correct direction.
The glow plug relay had jammed on which we discovered is draining the battery and a couple of glow plugs aren’t working.
The engine is turning over but not firing up. Fuel rail has pressure but injectors aren’t injecting conclusion is the car is immobilised and has a faulty AS10 which isn’t allowing ECU to be reset. So the ECU is being flashed to remove the immobiliser and new alarm immobiliser will be installed once we get her running. Slowly moving forward hopefully in the correct direction.
Ian M in France
Well-Known Member
Do you know if it is really running or just engine turning, some times when being towed it is hard to tell?
