Tel900

New Member
Progress so far...

Haynes manual (step 1 of quite a few) says undo the lower shocker securing bolt - but the feacker siezed and no way to grip the shocker to stop it turning.

Anyways, at least I know why the suspension was low on one side :eek::

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Off to buy some nut splitters today :doh:.
 
just below the nut at the end should of the shock bolt should be flat on both sides allowing for a small open ended spanner to hold while undo the nut. failing that cut it off with a cutting disc.
hope you have'nt got the yellow britpart lift springs , put them on mine a while ago and now one has sagged by about 13mm
 
Forget about tryingto hold the Flats. get a stilson on the bottom of the shocker and undo the bottom nut & then take the turret off completly. & use a stilston or a vice to hold the shocker while you undo the top nut.

regards Redhand :D :D
 
Thanks guys, tried the flat first, but its not that flat due to rust. Tried stilsons on the shock body, but could not get enough purchase to free the nut.

Also got a siezed nut that holds the turret on. Hoping nut splitters will do the job.

I'm surprised to find so many siezed nuts on a 7 year old car.

P.s. replacing with Bearmach kit.
 
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Stilsons didn't work for me either, try opening up a set of mole grips, mine just reached.
Harry
 
Thanks guys, tried the flat first, but its not that flat due to rust. Tried stilsons on the shock body, but could not get enough purchase to free the nut.

Also got a siezed nut that holds the turret on. Hoping nut splitters will do the job.

I'm surprised to find so many siezed nuts on a 7 year old car.

P.s. replacing with Bearmach kit.

just snap the fooker off and replace the turret rings :rolleyes: Tis the easiest and best way to do it.
 
Done the front. Taken 1 and half days - with mechanic friend helping a couple of hours yesterday (more for moral support of course :D).

Nut splitters would not handle the the lower shocker at 16mm - so had to continue to cut from above with an angle grinder.

Had more luck with the lower bolt on the other shocker - used a plumers wrench (which mechanic friend called "stilsons" - who suggested that one?:eek:) and freed the nut.

Had to cut through both the upper shock bolts attached to the turrets - even with the flat in a vice, once the locknut hit the vice jaws there is nothing to grap the upper section of the shocker with (the upper metal section is hidden within the turret and plastic sleve).

Fitting the new kit

Had to decide on which set of washers to use with the Tuffback BA 2524 schokers - came with two sets, the samller identical to the originals, the larger came fitted to the shockers (see pic).

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I used the larger washers as it seemed they are more appropriate for 'heavy duty' (hope I got that right).

Only hitch on fitting was the need to remove the plastic wheel arch liners in order to push the turret far enough up into the engine bay for the lower shocker thread to clear the upper mounting bracket (not mentioned in Haynes, but I guess it would not be necessary with standard height shocks).

Front all done (defo recommend buying replacement turret rings at £7 each)...

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I'm off to do the back now, I'll let you know how it goes.
 
Ye'll need to buy extended brake hoses as well. Looks like the one in the photie doesn't have a lot of play in it;)
 
All done. Back only took half day and no surprises.

Not a goop pic, but...

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Went for a test drive. Weird! Listening for every clonk and wondering whether it is something related to the lift. Overall rides potholes in the road better and less roll around corners.

But the strangest thing is the steering appears lighter - I would expect the opposite given the first drivie since fitting the much larger tyres. Can anyone explain that one?

Buster - if the axle ever gets thast low under normal use I'd be worried. Anyway, thems the Britpart Bungee Brake Hoses I installed as a precaution;).

Beastie - just gone for the springs and shocks for now.
 
JP - yes 2" lift but I admit it looks more.

Tombadier, Steve - read all that stuff. Concluded that if I'm not doing serious off road should be OK with 2" spirings and shocks only. Maybe I need to read again though :confused:.

Just been out for another test drive and there is some definate metallic banging noise when the front schockers do thier suff. I recon its the oversized rubbers and more importantly washers that I fitted (my comment above about the two sets that came with the front shocks). Suspect they are hitting the inside of the turret or the spring plate mounting bolts at the bottom. Think I'll swap em round at the w/e.

Another lesson for other newbies - don't be a smart ar*e :eek:. If there are two sets of rubbers and washers, use the ones that look identical to the ones you just took off!!!
 
re: my point above on the metallic clonking - on bumps in the road prob no more than 1" deep hit @ 30mph. I'd apprecaite any thoughts on whether I'll have probs with the bushese & washerr shown on the shocks here (did not use the ones in the bag which were identical to the old ones I took off) :

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The pic below shows the set installed where I guess the rubber could compress and the washer hits the bolts that hold the spring mounting plate in place? Or...could they be moving sideways causing the shocker bolt to hit the spirng mounting plate (although each rubber thing had a shoulder that went inside the spring mounting plate hole if you see what I mean).

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Any thoughts?
 
that washer is upside down.
the washers should "cup" the bush inside the pair of them.
 
looks smart bud good tyre chioce anorl;)

the nioce your hearing could be anything all i can say is check everything make sure its how you took the old setup of,

i know land rover do shock,bush plate,bush,bush plate shock mounting eye etc,bush plate,bush,bush plate,nut etc

if that makes any sense :D

mine makes no noice etc though:D

as on my pro comp shocks it was shock,bush plate,bush, shock mounting eye etc,bush plate ,nut etc
 

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