or even a 1.2 ton P6....

Internet is full of fit this fit that do this for hundreds of horsepowers, I don't want that, I want a torque monster.

Same here - and getting rather confused :confused: But is it then correct to assume that easiest, cheapest and most efficient way to gain power and more torque is bigger block or larger capacity if I have 3.5l now?

Hence if I fit 3.9l block to what I have is that possible or do I need other heads too and what wouls estimate outcome be in terms of BHP and torque?
 
Same here - and getting rather confused :confused: But is it then correct to assume that easiest, cheapest and most efficient way to gain power and more torque is bigger block or larger capacity if I have 3.5l now?

Hence if I fit 3.9l block to what I have is that possible or do I need other heads too and what wouls estimate outcome be in terms of BHP and torque?

Not long ago I read a thread with some great posts by 'Teflon'. It was titled "3.9 4.2 or 4.6". I don't know whether it will answer your questions, but I thought it was excellent food for thought. In essence, his main point was to make sure that whatever you've got under the bonnet, make sure it is running absolutely as well as it can in standard form, then go from there. I don't pretend to be an expert, but I thought that made perfect sense. Have a read:
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f42/3-9-4-2-4-6-a-82882.html
 
lol should be 3.9 4.2 or 4.6 = loads of problems with blocks liners and headgaskets and I sticking with 3.5 :p
 
lol should be 3.9 4.2 or 4.6 = loads of problems with blocks liners and headgaskets and I sticking with 3.5 :p


thats not really true - not all 94mm bore blocks have liner/headgasket problems.



You are sticking with a 3.5 cause you can't afford to change it lol
 
You are sticking with a 3.5 cause you can't afford to change it lol

:D Same here. And my 3.5 has only done 19K miles from a £3.5K RPI extravaganza. (didn't stop them only sealing the fuel pump on with sealant and no gasket tho..) All the upgrades I do on the 3.5 will be transferable to the bigger engines when I decide I want one of them.
 
Rpi :(

:d same here. And my 3.5 has only done 19k miles from a £3.5k rpi extravaganza. (didn't stop them only sealing the fuel pump on with sealant and no gasket tho..) all the upgrades i do on the 3.5 will be transferable to the bigger engines when i decide i want one of them.
 
thats not really true - not all 94mm bore blocks have liner/headgasket problems.



You are sticking with a 3.5 cause you can't afford to change it lol

er yes they do and no , come here and say that!:eek:
 
I'd have a rebuilt and sorted 3.5 over a 3.9 anyday.

I think the next step with a 3.5 will be a semi experiment. I think I may have to do one next year. might even get to playing with ceramic coatings aswell!! The theory seems good do you reckon you could get 30mpg out of a V8 and still have a stonking Ammount of oomph?
 
been there and done it with a 3.9, not worth it

3.5 is the way to go,they sound best too.
 
Not long ago I read a thread with some great posts by 'Teflon'. It was titled "3.9 4.2 or 4.6". I don't know whether it will answer your questions, but I thought it was excellent food for thought. In essence, his main point was to make sure that whatever you've got under the bonnet, make sure it is running absolutely as well as it can in standard form, then go from there. I don't pretend to be an expert, but I thought that made perfect sense. Have a read:
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f42/3-9-4-2-4-6-a-82882.html

Thanks Turtled - lots of info there
 
significalty more prone than an already dated and problematic engine, sounds perfect- definatly worth investing thousands of pounds and hours in! :doh:
 
significalty more prone than an already dated and problematic engine, sounds perfect- definatly worth investing thousands of pounds and hours in! :doh:


when I get mine fetted with I'm getting top hat liners put in so going to have no worries.

So long as your cooling system is actually doing its job and everything is working as it should the engine should be fine.
 
been told by 2 engine builders now that top hat liners dont always solve the problems and they irontite them after the rebuild to try and help with this. that says to me keep away! several k for like maybe 100hp extra which only lasts 30k miles at best before failure. not worth it. but we can all do as we like.
 
top hat liners work like wet liners in that they are sealed to block with flange blocks can still be or crack but unless block gets seriously poor should seal ,liners need to be good material so they dont crack
 
I think they said the block still cracks and lits the liner move enough to leak.
 

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