hogie

Active Member

• Jan 17, 2015

• #1

I went to pull the back wheels today to check the rear pads and the O/S wheel came off with a few light taps with a mallet on the inside of the tyre. The N/S is refusing to budge. I have hit the tyre inside and with a lump hammer, lump hammer on a piece of wood directly on the back of the rim, copious amounts of WD40, heat and swearing
Normally when they 'fuse' to the hub these measures work but not this time.
Can anyone suggest anything I can try? I don't want to have to take it into a garage just because I want to check the pads that would be too embarrassing
Vehicle is a 1998 110 with alloys and disc brake axles front and rear

 

123-eddy09

Active Member

• Jan 17, 2015

• #2

Are you hitting on alternate sides?

 

mick the builder

Well-Known Member

• Jan 17, 2015

• #3

undo nuts a little then roll it forward.

 

Shifty1962

Well-Known Member

• Jan 17, 2015

• #4

As Mick says make sure all nuts are loose but leave them on the studs. Roll the vehicle back and forward a few times. If it still wont come loose then jack up the vehicle and belt the wheel with a lump hammer and a block of wood on alternate sides. As a last resort you can use a farm jack as a spreader between the two wheels but don't overdo it or you'll buckle alloys. Put some pressure on the jack then use the hammer and block to shock the wheel loose. When you do get the wheel off clean the hub and wheel surfaces then spray the wheel mounting surface with a silicone polish and it won't stick again. Its good practice to loosen each wheel at least once a year.

 

hogie

Active Member

• Jan 17, 2015

• #5

Eddy - yes I have tried alternate sides. Handbrake is off so I can spin the wheel freely
Mick - I did try and drop it down off the jack with just a couple of wheel nuts loosely fastened and it didn't shift. I will try and roll it in the morning but it is starting to feel like:5bbeatdeadhorse5:

 

Pikey

Dummy Ejection Facilitator..

• Jan 17, 2015

• #6

try hilift and bigger hammer. Also spray some releasing agent duck oil etc onto the back of the wheel where it mates with the hub.

If you can get to the offending wheel with a vehicle In desperation and asuming axle is supported by large blocks of wood or a tyre & some wood. put a strap round wheel and tow it of with 2nd vehicle. (NB you have to be desperate to try this. )

 

Brown

Well-Known Member

Full Member

• Jan 17, 2015

• #7

It won't stay stuck on forever. I've just had a similar problem with a friend's Jaguar where the alloy wheel had glued itself onto the hub. Took me quite a while to loosen it. Given the sheer mass of the wheel and tyres an ordinary hammer won't make much difference but a sledgehammer or in my case a lump of granite kerbstone out of the garden will eventually shift it. It's the repeated vibration of being hit that does it. Didn't help that my mate was fussing around in case I chipped his alloy wheel or precious paintwork.

 

hogie

Active Member

• Jan 17, 2015

• #8

Thanks for ideas gents. I don't unfortunately have access to a farm jack but I have plenty of Duck oil and I will soak the joint tomorrow then try to roll it

 

V

vec150

Member

• Jan 17, 2015

• #9

I've resorted to loosening the nuts fractionally and driving back and forth in the past!!! Keep up with the rotating 90 degrees and hitting rim, the time glue will eventually release.

 

hogie

Active Member

• Jan 18, 2015

• #10

A big thanks to all on here who offered ideas. I soaked the joints with Duck oil, attached 3 wheel nuts hand tight then half a turn out. I then went forward and back on the drive until the nuts seemed tight. I slackend the nuts half a turn and repeated the process a further 5 times and could now see a noticeable gap between the wheel a hub. Jacked it up and with a bit of a fight off came the wheel.
I have refitted using copper slip on both mating faces. Happy days