sorry Boydy! :eek: I missed your post, it got lost amongst all the wifey chat! Cheers for the offer, but i dont think i will need them now. I had a garage look at it to check the studs, wheel alignment, rear brakes, and any other general damage the incident might have caused. They said everythings fine and they did the nuts up to the correct torque for me. Fingers crossed it won't happen to me again any time soon!!
 
Did they check the studs have not yeilded?

I am not saying they don't know their stuff, and at the risk of insulting them I would say the chances are they don't even know how road wheels are kept on themselves - by that I mean all the stuff about tension of the studs and wheel.

They may have looked and gone, yeah they are straight, the threads look OK but I bet that was it.

There has been some good information given on this forum and I think for your saftey and others around you, you ought to change those studs.
 
Very good point made Discomania, i will go ahead and change the wheel studs. Do you reckon i should change all 4 sets of wheel studs, or just the rear ones (bearing in mind it was the back left wheel that came off...)
 
Depends - if I thought that the rest would be 100% OK, i.e. I only had the one wheel off and it was the one that failed then I would probably only do the ones that failed.

However, if I had it at the back of my mind in the slightest that I applied the same amount of torque to them all and may have caused similar damage to them all I would do them all; which unfortunately I think is your scenario.

I know it's a pain, but think of the consequences if it failed again and this time there was no bringing it under control - lifes short enough as it is.

Good man for taking the advice.
 
Related problem here - '87 Defender 3.5 V8.

I noticed a terrible knocking sound coming from the rear right side of my landy while driving and upon further inspection came to realise that, what i thought was 3 loose wheel nuts turns out to be 3 loose studs!

I jacked her up and tried to tighten the nuts but 3 of the 5 just spin. The studs have lost all 'anchorage' in the hub and they just simply turn as one turns the nut. Tried removing the nuts and same story, just turn.

Any ideas as to how one can remove the wheel nuts if the studs have become dislodged from the hub??

Slightly stressed!:screaming_bug_eye_f:Cry:
 
If the studs have come loose... I think there will be more damage done.

Usually (talking from my experience with discs here) the studs have a splined fitting in the back which is a good hammer fit into the hub.

If the studs are loose, then I would suspect that these splines are also now very worn...

In which case, cut the nuts off with a grinder, chisel, etc and investigate... I would suspect the hubs are knackered... :(

Any other opinions?
 
Had changed my wheels to a different set of off road ones, did all the wheel nuts up tightly (using scaffolding bar for extra leverage).
That's why they came off.

The studs and wheel itself all form part of the physics that holds your wheels on.

The wheel itself has spring in it, over tighten and you have removed the spring in the wheel, stretch the studs beyond there yield point and they won't be in elastic tension - translation: they won't stretch and PULL to hold the wheel on.

In this case, tighter is NOT better. There is a reason they give you a stupidly short wheel brace, not great for taking wheels off, but about the perfect size for a normal human to put a wheel nut on without over tightening
 
wots the point of the copper grease?

Do as he says!

It's an anti seize compound. Should be used on every nut and bolt in sight, I have cans of it all over the place so I have no excuse.

It should also be used on the face of the hub where the wheel makes contact to save the use of violence to remove a stuck on wheel. I had to take a 4x4 fence post to an 16000mile, 3 year old Aygo wheel a few months back because the fools at Toyota put everything together dry.

First thing I do when I, a friend or family member get a new car is take all the wheels off it and refit with copperslip. The Aygo, my brothers car got a puncture, he unable to get the wheel nuts off went to the nearest building site and sought the help of a steel erector, he came with a 4 foot breaker bar of some sort and still couldn't get this wheel off. I managed with a tighten and tap technique then an impact gun. Once the nuts were all it still wouldn't come off, it was stuck to the hub, I had to use violence but not so much as to damage ball joints and bearings.

That was reassembled with copious amounts of copperslip.

I've seen a D2 driven about a yard with NO wheel nuts on a wheel and it wouldn't come off, needed beaten with a fence post also!
 
Please take all the above advice and change all the studs. Dont just say you will to avoid a scolding. Noone wants to see you in the paper
 

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