1

1000 things to do

New Member
Finally able to get new front hub and after negotiations with the hammer managed to get it fitted - all, seemingly, went well...

took it out for a test drive and found that there was hardly any acceleration in 1st and 2nd gear - it was like being pulled back - and was quite 'jumpy'.

Pulled over and jacked it back up expecting the problem was with the caliper piston (as i am very new to this). everything at the front end seemed to be fine so checked rear end too. Jacked up each side and found that wheels only spin freely for quarter turn then the brakes lock them and a 'psst' noise can be heard from the brake pump(?) - the box with all the pipes going into it under the bonnet

is this connected to my changing the hub or an entirely different problem... and what the hell do i do about it? any advice or tips would be very helpful... i shall be waiting with my hammer... :confused:
 
was the engine running while u did this test(or at least ignition on)?... if it was:
1. check the ABS relay (R10) in engine bay... make sure it's not sticking...swap with R8(heated screen) for test

2. unplug that sensor(presuming that it's the plugged type) then try again... happened to me too that a bran new hub was fitted with a faulty sensor... u can do that with all sensors one by one...a bad input from sensors could trigger the EBD and it will have a paradoxical behaviour

if the ignition was off then i have no idea...
 
sierrafery said:
was the engine running while u did this test(or at least ignition on)?... if it was:
1. check the ABS relay (R10) in engine bay... make sure it's not sticking...swap with R8(heated screen) for test

2. unplug that sensor(presuming that it's the plugged type) then try again... happened to me too that a bran new hub was fitted with a faulty sensor... u can do that with all sensors one by one...a bad input from sensors could trigger the EBD and it will have a paradoxical behaviour

if the ignition was off then i have no idea...
Click to expand...
thanks will get that checked in the morning although it was a front hub i replaced .. could this affect the rear axle/brake??
 
sierrafery said:
was the engine running while u did this test(or at least ignition on)?... if it was:
1. check the ABS relay (R10) in engine bay... make sure it's not sticking...swap with R8(heated screen) for test

2. unplug that sensor(presuming that it's the plugged type) then try again... happened to me too that a bran new hub was fitted with a faulty sensor... u can do that with all sensors one by one...a bad input from sensors could trigger the EBD and it will have a paradoxical behaviour

if the ignition was off then i have no idea...
Click to expand...
and sorry if i'm being a bit thick but what is the EBD
 
does anybody think this could be a handbrake fault, both rear wheels lock up after only a quarter turn....but the noise from the block has me really worried
 
1000 things to do said:
thanks will get that checked in the morning although it was a front hub i replaced .. could this affect the rear axle/brake??
Click to expand...

Yes, as long as it disturbes the EBD, and it's interconnected with the ABS modulator(the one with lots of pipes u thought it's pump)... here is from RAVE:
EBD
The EBD function optimises the distribution of hydraulic pressure between the front and rear axles, under all vehicle load configurations and road conditions, to maintain vehicle stability during braking. EBD operates in forward and reverse and is automatically enabled whenever the ABS modulator is in the normal braking mode at vehicle deceleration rates of 0.3 g and above (i.e. medium to high brake pedal loads). EBD operation is similar to that of ABS, but is calibrated to intervene at lower wheel slip limits and operates the brakes in axle pairs instead of individually.
During braking, if the SLABS ECU detects the wheels of one axle going slower than those of the other axle, i.e. a potential wheel slip situation, it signals the ABS modulator to close the inlet solenoid valve for the brakes of the slower wheels. This prevents any further increase in hydraulic pressure to those brakes, while allowing the hydraulic pressure to the brakes on the other axle to increase and so maximise the overall braking effort. If the wheel speeds of the axle being subjected to EBD control return within the calibrated wheel slip limits, the SLABS ECU signals a stepped opening of the inlet solenoid valves, which allows a progressive increase of hydraulic pressure to the related brakes.
Operation of EBD is detectable from a stiffening of brake pedal movement as the inlet solenoid valves close and a slight pulsing of the brake pedal as the inlet solenoid valves open. EBD operation ceases immediately the brake pedal is released.
The wheel slip limit for EBD operation varies with vehicle speed. During normal operation, the inlet solenoid valves always operate in axle pairs, with only one axle pair closed at any one time. Since the most lightly loaded wheel during a braking manoeuvre will usually be the first to reach the slip limit, under most vehicle load configurations and road conditions EBD control occurs on the trailing axle. However, EBD control can occur on the leading axle or switch between axles during the braking manoeuvre.
 
sierrafery said:
Yes, as long as it disturbes the EBD, and it's interconnected with the ABS modulator(the one with lots of pipes u thought it's pump)... here is from RAVE:
EBD
The EBD function optimises the distribution of hydraulic pressure between the front and rear axles, under all vehicle load configurations and road conditions, to maintain vehicle stability during braking. EBD operates in forward and reverse and is automatically enabled whenever the ABS modulator is in the normal braking mode at vehicle deceleration rates of 0.3 g and above (i.e. medium to high brake pedal loads). EBD operation is similar to that of ABS, but is calibrated to intervene at lower wheel slip limits and operates the brakes in axle pairs instead of individually.
During braking, if the SLABS ECU detects the wheels of one axle going slower than those of the other axle, i.e. a potential wheel slip situation, it signals the ABS modulator to close the inlet solenoid valve for the brakes of the slower wheels. This prevents any further increase in hydraulic pressure to those brakes, while allowing the hydraulic pressure to the brakes on the other axle to increase and so maximise the overall braking effort. If the wheel speeds of the axle being subjected to EBD control return within the calibrated wheel slip limits, the SLABS ECU signals a stepped opening of the inlet solenoid valves, which allows a progressive increase of hydraulic pressure to the related brakes.
Operation of EBD is detectable from a stiffening of brake pedal movement as the inlet solenoid valves close and a slight pulsing of the brake pedal as the inlet solenoid valves open. EBD operation ceases immediately the brake pedal is released.
The wheel slip limit for EBD operation varies with vehicle speed. During normal operation, the inlet solenoid valves always operate in axle pairs, with only one axle pair closed at any one time. Since the most lightly loaded wheel during a braking manoeuvre will usually be the first to reach the slip limit, under most vehicle load configurations and road conditions EBD control occurs on the trailing axle. However, EBD control can occur on the leading axle or switch between axles during the braking manoeuvre.
Click to expand...

simples...:eek::eek::eek:
so if i disconecct abs lead from new hub and wheels stop locking its the new hub with a fault fecking the whole system.... (think i may need a bigger hammer)..;);)
 
...but this theory is valid only if the ignition was on...and if u'll make tests with sensors disconnected u'll get the 3 amigos... unless u have a SLABS ECU missbehaviour cos a faulty sensor must have triggered them anyway(in most cases) ... after u reconnect the sensors the 3 amigos must vanish when u exceed 9mph
 
sierrafery said:
...but this theory is valid only if the ignition was on...and if u'll make tests with sensors disconnected u'll get the 3 amigos... unless u have a SLABS ECU missbehaviour cos a faulty sensor must have triggered them anyway(in most cases) ... after u reconnect the sensors the 3 amigos must vanish when u exceed 9mph
Click to expand...
yes me and the amigos are becoming quite friendly....they appeared along with he other signs that led to hub replacment......they are still there now so i assume the hub and poss my work skills are to blame..was kinda hoping that the new problem was unrelated.....and had just hoped the timing was coincidental.
 
If it will work with this sensor disconnected put back the sensor from the old hub cos there i think the sensor was good but the hub was worn;)
 
sierrafery said:
If it will work with this sensor disconnected put back the sensor from the old hub cos there i think the sensor was good but the hub was worn;)
Click to expand...

aahhhh the wonder of hind sight...knowing the the hub was fecked.. unbelievable amount of play i just cut the old sensor of (was getting in the way during removal....(i won't tell the wife that bit) :eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek:
 
wiil she still drive with sensor disconnected???
Click to expand...

OFF COURSE... but if u re-read with attention all i've said u'll realise why your question makes me angry:mad: .....;)
 
Last edited:
yeah yeah ...sorry suffering from attention deficit ....was more thinking of safety than mechanical usability.. anyway am jst waiting for the wife to get up an i'll be starting work on her..the disco not the wife!!! will keep you updated, you have at least given me some where to start
 
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