No need to boot it on mine, the TC kicks in at low revs and low speed.
I liked that video. It got me thinking tho'
What would it take to fit D2 ACE to a P38?
Assume front only.
Since every man and his dog is ripping them out of D2's the ARB plus ram are really cheap on eBay. As are pumps and ECUs. Valve blocks are a little pricier however.
What would it take to get it working as a stand alone system. What inputs does it need. If the ECU needs to be integrated into other systems and the logic is a simple (which it may not be) then an Arduino approach could be a fun little project
Sounds like a lot of mucking about for minimal gain.
Tell me what benefit you would gain from fitting unreliable ACE to a P38, it's being ripped out of Disco's for a reason.I liked that video. It got me thinking tho'
What would it take to fit D2 ACE to a P38?
Assume front only.
Since every man and his dog is ripping them out of D2's the ARB plus ram are really cheap on eBay. As are pumps and ECUs. Valve blocks are a little pricier however.
What would it take to get it working as a stand alone system. What inputs does it need. If the ECU needs to be integrated into other systems and the logic is a simple (which it may not be) then an Arduino approach could be a fun little project
Tell me what benefit you would gain from fitting unreliable ACE to a P38, it's being ripped out of Disco's for a reason.
What makes you say it is unreliable? There might be people on near 20 year old un-maintained vehicles finding issues now. But it was never unreliable.Tell me what benefit you would gain from fitting unreliable ACE to a P38, it's being ripped out of Disco's for a reason.
For a 2.25 tonne leviathan, the P38 handles on the road pretty well cornering much flatter than my previous 4 x 4's or my Transit for that matter, I can leave most cars on roundabouts, not something i would have tried in the Pajero. Lock it at motorway height for best handling on the road.Superior road handling which I think the P38 would really benefit from.
What's not to like.
They are being removed from old Disco's so they can be run on a shoe string.
Not because there's anything wrong with the system. Yes it needs maintenance like everything else on these cars.
Just been doing a little research, sounds like all it needs are two accelerometers so if it can work as a standalone system it would be really easy to retrofit.
Seen lots of stuff about leaking seals.What makes you say it is unreliable? There might be people on near 20 year old un-maintained vehicles finding issues now. But it was never unreliable.
Benefits are pretty obvious, much flatter cornering. More stable, less roll, less wallow. In fact from a driving point of view, there is not a single downside.
So much so, that "Dynamic handling" aka ACE has been offered on other LR models since the D2. Other car makers have also used reactive roll bars and they have always been exceptional from a driver (or passenger) point of view.
ACE would have an even bigger impact on a 4x4 in terms of lean, but as you can see it is pretty dramatic even on a sports GT car...
ooh i like those. Where from?4wheel Tc on my 1999.
Here's a mod for you.. View attachment 272091new battery clamps.
I think you probably have to either make a choice, go concourse or go off road - not both - unless you get two of course, one for Sunday best and one for playing rough!
The p38 handles ok. I’ve driven quite a few over the years. My Dad had a brand new M plate 4.6 back in the day. We had another 4.6 in about 2001/2002. And been in diesel and 4.0 manuals. Plus my current 4.6 owned for 7 years or so.For a 2.25 tonne leviathan, the P38 handles on the road pretty well cornering much flatter than my previous 4 x 4's or my Transit for that matter, I can leave most cars on roundabouts, not something i would have tried in the Pajero. Lock it at motorway height for best handling on the road.
I love the p38. For me it is arguably the best Range Rover. It does everything the original does but fixes most of the issues with it.I know you're right but what I'd like to achieve is as close as possible to both cars in one.
Take the rock sliders for example, if I made a custom set I guess I could hide them with a butchered set of standard rubber steps. Rocks still hit metal first, but at a glance they look like standard side steps.
Or take the wheel size conundrum, how about with a set or arnott gen 3 Bags al round, could I not run around at standard height with standard wheels, then for Greenlane day, trick the ECU to go super height, but larger wheels on with off-road tyres and have at it whilst hoping the EAS doesn't fail and leave me stuck on my arches.
I was trying to work out why I want a P38. I think it's because the P38 is the last luxurious live axle car LR ever made. It's the best of that body on chassis era from the LR offering, and if your limiting your choice to live axles what better car that offers luxury, looks, comfort and off road ability exists that achieves those to a greater degree all in one car than the P38? If I can make it better that's just a bonus.
I love the p38. For me it is arguably the best Range Rover. It does everything the original does but fixes most of the issues with it.
Newer RR‘a just aren’t the same. They don’t drive or feel the same. Good cars still. But that for me is the issue. They feel far more car like. The p38 is still a 4x4 but with added luxury.
I think the post above from Nick is a little negative. The p38 is very capable off road IMO. Especially with a few mods. I’d say mine feels quite invincible off road. But I must caveat that with the fact it would depend where you off road.
Most green lanes are not a challenge at all in terms of off road terrain. But they can be narrow and scratchy. This depends by lane and partly by part of the country. But you can find narrow lanes and overgrown hedges anywhere. So scratching a p38 is highly likely. Some lanes can be tight on the terrain too. A 90 might be fine. But any RR or Disco could be at risk of body damage.
The only risk I’ve seen laning is deep tram lines/ruts and grounding out. Stock tyres could cause this with a p38. But you only need mildly taller and it shouldn’t really be an issue.
I have done some lanes in my p38. But I’d not take it many of the places I take a 90. Just too big. But this will be true for loads of vehicles. I’d not be concerned with the off road prowess of a p38 however.
In terms of live axle vehicles. I had an XJ Cherokee Jeep. Friggin awesome. 4.0 litre straight 6 with loads of room inside but hardly bigger than a 90 ok the outside. They need a lift from the factory. But a great all rounder and lots of toys too even if not as plush. The Jeep ZJ an WJ Grand Cherokee would be similar too if you want luxury and live axles.
I think it may depend on your driving style, it's no sports car but can be hustled round the twisties remarkably quickly for such a big heavy car.I love the p38. For me it is arguably the best Range Rover. It does everything the original does but fixes most of the issues with it.
Newer RR‘a just aren’t the same. They don’t drive or feel the same. Good cars still. But that for me is the issue. They feel far more car like. The p38 is still a 4x4 but with added luxury.
I think the post above from Nick is a little negative. The p38 is very capable off road IMO. Especially with a few mods. I’d say mine feels quite invincible off road. But I must caveat that with the fact it would depend where you off road.
Most green lanes are not a challenge at all in terms of off road terrain. But they can be narrow and scratchy. This depends by lane and partly by part of the country. But you can find narrow lanes and overgrown hedges anywhere. So scratching a p38 is highly likely. Some lanes can be tight on the terrain too. A 90 might be fine. But any RR or Disco could be at risk of body damage.
The only risk I’ve seen laning is deep tram lines/ruts and grounding out. Stock tyres could cause this with a p38. But you only need mildly taller and it shouldn’t really be an issue.
I have done some lanes in my p38. But I’d not take it many of the places I take a 90. Just too big. But this will be true for loads of vehicles. I’d not be concerned with the off road prowess of a p38 however.
In terms of live axle vehicles. I had an XJ Cherokee Jeep. Friggin awesome. 4.0 litre straight 6 with loads of room inside but hardly bigger than a 90 ok the outside. They need a lift from the factory. But a great all rounder and lots of toys too even if not as plush. The Jeep ZJ an WJ Grand Cherokee would be similar too if you want luxury and live axles.
Deep ruts can be an issue. Which is why a Freelander isn't always a good green lane vehicle choice either. For the p38 the stock tyres are about 29" tall, which isn't bad tbh. Not so different from a Disco 1, RRC or even a 90 fitted with 205 x 16's. They will all have the same clearance under the diffs. So the p38 shouldn't fair any worse here. Of course, most 90's run 235/85R26' which are 31.7" tall.Ruts are the biggest issue I have had on lanes. Some of them are obscene. The diffs catch and you're in trouble.
Some lanes are seriously scratchy. A mate used a special paint used for cranes and bridges on his 90 and it still scratched holes in it. I decided not to risk that one!
As said, they aren't bad. And I'm not knocking them as I own one too!I think it may depend on your driving style, it's no sports car but can be hustled round the twisties remarkably quickly for such a big heavy car.