I investigated why the blower had stopped working. Usually if you jiggle the switch about you can get it to go, but that technique was giving no joy. Removing the instrument cluster and probing with the multimeter revealed that the live wires to the switch yielded only four volts. Surely it's supposed to be 12? I had a look at the fuse, just out of interest and found this:
Sorry it is blurry, but you get the idea. I put a new one in, and we have blowers again. There still seems to be a bit of the old fuse blade left behind in the fuse holder, but I pushed it in as far as it would go. I think the problem may have arisen from the fact that I've been using the lighter socket (which shares the same fuse) to boil a travel kettle. The socket gets considerably hotter than the water, and obviously the fuse did too. Maybe that's not such a good idea.
cornish rattler
Well-Known Member
Fitted my 3rd speedo cable since November and fitted some lash down loops just incase we get a chassis from Billing 
Jon Dor
Well-Known Member
You you stop "in time"?Did an emergency stop!!
Hippo
Lord Hippo
How many minutes did it take?Did an emergency stop!!
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Did you manage to un seize the brakesDid an emergency stop!!
It was from about 30 mph and a guy stuck in traffic on the other side of the road did a sudden u turn then panicked and stopped across the road. OK in a "normal" car it would just have been a hard stop but I need time to get to full pedal pressure and those drums take time so it was all a bit close. Stopped about 6" short of the side of his car. His passengers looked a bit pale and did a lot of applogetic waving (well that's my intepretation..). I managed to dodge the steering lock its way to hitting the bulkhead and the loo was properly strapped in and stayed the right way up, that could have been serious!
Good news is I must finally have the brakes set up right as the pedal did not hit the floor and it stopped in a straight line, wonder how long that will last??
!Good news is I must finally have the brakes set up right as the pedal did not hit the floor and it stopped in a straight line, wonder how long that will last??
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
You enjoying the landy then???
JMartin
Member
got my 90 gutted of all tools being as i'm now self-selfemplyed jobless as of covid19. i even went as far as lifting the rubber mats for a all inclusive hoover party. whilst i'm here tho mind me asking if anyone knows of any known company that makes SWB pop tops i can only find the 110 alu-cab icarus convertion short of cutting that down to fit i don't know where to go. any ideas ?
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Sorting out people problems over the phone...
A photo makes all the difference( not saying what’s wrong)
A photo makes all the difference( not saying what’s wrong)
I've been taking advantage of the warm dry weather to get my annual Dinitrol touch up done:
I'm still working on the garden of the lady down the street who lets me park there. We're social distancing, and as an additional precaution I've put down a plastic sheet to keep her slabs nice. I've blown a bit more inside the chassis and have just hosed the outside of the chassis down to get a bit more dust off. I'll let that dry for 24 hours and then touch up the outside of the chassis. There's a new variety of Dinitrol on the Rejel website, called 'Penetrant'.
For Dinitrol enthusiasts like me, that's actually quite exciting. It has a grey, waxy texture. I've tried it on a few rust flakes on the body, the inner wings and seams between the upper and lower body and the windscreen and front bulkhead - those crevices that you can't really get at without taking the body to pieces. We'll see how it does.
I've got a new bumper and grille to go on:
I've got tired of wire brushing and painting the original bumper, and it's getting very thin, so I'll put a new one on. I've refitted the end caps with the original factory fir tree clips, because I'm not a barbarian. Well, actually it's because I forgot to buy any new ones. The grill and its frame were cracked as a result of a collision with a pheasant last year. I don't like hitting animals, but just as I'd committed to go past a group of pheasants at the side of the road one decided it was time to fly across in front of the car.
When I've finished my lunch I might go and put yet another new reverse light switch on the gearbox to see if it lasts any longer than the previous one.
I've got a new bumper and grille to go on:
I've got tired of wire brushing and painting the original bumper, and it's getting very thin, so I'll put a new one on. I've refitted the end caps with the original factory fir tree clips, because I'm not a barbarian. Well, actually it's because I forgot to buy any new ones. The grill and its frame were cracked as a result of a collision with a pheasant last year. I don't like hitting animals, but just as I'd committed to go past a group of pheasants at the side of the road one decided it was time to fly across in front of the car.
When I've finished my lunch I might go and put yet another new reverse light switch on the gearbox to see if it lasts any longer than the previous one.
I thought I saw Dormobile offering a SWB pop-top. They are expanding their range so it may be worth getting in touch. I have the LWB Dormobile top and that's long enough to sleep in, the SWB one wont be unless its the full roof length but even if its short it still really helps to be able to stand up to wash and dress and with the roof up there's space to stash all the stuff to get the bed clear.
Had another session today. I've got the new 'face' on:
I've done the Dinitrol on the chassis too. It's nice and black and shiny:
There was enough left over to apply a fine mist to the braking surfaces and tread into the dining room carpet too.
The brakes cleaned up successfully with white spirit followed by brake cleaner. I'm not too sure about the carpet though.
Considering it is seven years since I did this properly with a compressor, it has lasted quite well. I have done some intermediate touch ups with a paintbrush for the sticky stuff and a spray bottle for the thin runny stuff but this is the first proper treatment for several years. I've also done my best to wobble all the suspension and steering components. One of the bolts holding the radius arm to the front axle needed doing up a quarter of a turn, and a tiny bit of slack on the front wheels was remedied by easing the nuts round a few degrees and re-staking them. Otherwise I can't feel anything loose at all. Next time I replace the brake pads I shall change the discs as well because the grooves in them are getting rather shallow, so are probably getting close to the minimum thickness. They've lasted seven years so far, so haven't done too badly, and should be good for another winter.
I've done the Dinitrol on the chassis too. It's nice and black and shiny:
The brakes cleaned up successfully with white spirit followed by brake cleaner. I'm not too sure about the carpet though.
Considering it is seven years since I did this properly with a compressor, it has lasted quite well. I have done some intermediate touch ups with a paintbrush for the sticky stuff and a spray bottle for the thin runny stuff but this is the first proper treatment for several years. I've also done my best to wobble all the suspension and steering components. One of the bolts holding the radius arm to the front axle needed doing up a quarter of a turn, and a tiny bit of slack on the front wheels was remedied by easing the nuts round a few degrees and re-staking them. Otherwise I can't feel anything loose at all. Next time I replace the brake pads I shall change the discs as well because the grooves in them are getting rather shallow, so are probably getting close to the minimum thickness. They've lasted seven years so far, so haven't done too badly, and should be good for another winter.
