nickh75 said:
found the leak wasn't from the bottom hose it was from the water pump AFOOKINGAIN:eek:
went to paddocks to get a new genuine pump and fitted it, seems ok now

anyone got any idea why it should fook up 3 brand new pumps within a year?
ok the last one was ****part so that might be the answer for that one:rolleyes:
Click to expand...

Adding to what MHM says, I'd also maybe change the coolant, and give the whole cooling system a good check for fluid throughput. It might be that there's a blockage and the waterpump's working harder than it should be!

Had it on an Escort once, a 1" inside diameter hose was actually about 1/4" ... inside was full of crusty deposits!! We think previous owners hadn't used coolant, just normal tap-water ... ;)
 
Did a full oil change the other day, got shunted by an artic today and almost overheated twice! :mad: Theres allways a balance isnt there :rolleyes: Think i'll treat myself to a new rad now ;)

Ollie
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
Just a thought, Nick - It might be worth checking the pulleys for concentricity and alignment. I have heard of a mis-aligned pulley causing failures in alternators and water pumps. Also - if one pulley is not centrally placed on its shaft it will "pulse" different tensions along the drive belt, which can also cause premature failure.
Click to expand...



cheers daft;)
it all looks ok so how would i be able to tell if it was lined up properly?
i think the first pump was due to the wrong belt being fitted, but that was changed when the first (original) pump failed, the last one the pulley fell off the spline bearmach admitted it was a faulty joint, and this one looks like the seal in the centre has failed, but there is no play in the bearing.

is it just possible i could have fitted two ****e pumps or is that not possible?
 
Anything is possible, although we dont wanna admit that we can get several duff items.
I would use a DTI (Dial gauge) to check pulleys - but its a bit fiddly, to say the least.
 
Paul D said:
Adding to what MHM says, I'd also maybe change the coolant, and give the whole cooling system a good check for fluid throughput. It might be that there's a blockage and the waterpump's working harder than it should be!

Had it on an Escort once, a 1" inside diameter hose was actually about 1/4" ... inside was full of crusty deposits!! We think previous owners hadn't used coolant, just normal tap-water ... ;)
Click to expand...


Mmm good thought:D
but i flushed it all through when i put the new radiator on a couple of months ago, but i spoze there could be some ****e in the bottom of the water ways.
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
a few more pics - first plate tacked and then welderised - hopefully MOT proof.

quick bit paint, filler to smooth post base and then underseal. only 2 to go :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

MHM, what thickness did you use there?
I have exactly the same place to repair on mine....

was that done on tuftee?
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
If its a 300TDi - mite be good to check ya tensioner anorl.
Click to expand...


when i took it apart earlier i checked all drives and pulleys for play and found no play at all, everything seemed as it should be, and the tensioner had new bearing about 2 or 3 months ago.
i can't thing of anything else it could be so i'm open to suggestions
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
i used 1.2mm Zintec

nope - thats ont Green machine. :eek:
Click to expand...


Oooo.. I havent seen the green machine yet!
any piccies around?

1.2 hey?
I got hold of some .8mm sheet from a place in Tadley, a 6ft long offcut they gave to me....good to weld some patches on side panels next to footwells, but probably no good for footwell though.... but was expecting to use on the rear wheel arches! bugger!
 
not many piccies - except bits......

i only used 1.2 because I have lots of it - thats wot I am using on Tufftee - I just used offcuts ont Green machine.
 
i got some shelfs from an old tool cupboard that was beening thrown in the skip at work to do my inner wings, that was nice an cheap too:rolleyes: that was .8mm steel sheet
 
nothing directly but finished building me mates inspection pit but directly another few weeks will be able to get the old 90 whipped into shape using it.
might even get it back on the road for the winter :D :bounce:
 
Disco failed MOT .. and I can hardly believe it!

Offside headlamp not working ... ****ted it and it came on, so bad connection or poor earth!
Nearside Front brake pipe excessively corroded, fair do's, on the to do list anyway!
Centre rear brake pipe excessively corroded, fair do's on the to do list anyway .. !
Service brake efficiency below requirements, again fair do's on the to do list, pistons a tad corroded and I've been meaning to replace them and/or calipers etc for a while, but no money to do it with!

and that's it ... De-cat exhaust, no centre box, de-egr'd, no front prop all fine, emmissions about half what they were last time with a cat, egr and centre silencer fitted!!

So easy fixes (I hope) which will be done by Saturday evening as all parts are on order as of 5 minutes ago!! Re-test booked for Weds next week.
 
Paul D said:
Disco failed MOT .. and I can hardly believe it!

Offside headlamp not working ... ****ted it and it came on, so bad connection or poor earth!
Click to expand...

That can also mean that the bulb filament is broken but 'tapping' it with them switched on can make the filament re-weld back together.
 
straightened me rear ARB after bashing last nite laning. disco almost steers straight now, cant work out how the rear ARB affected anythin tho:confused: gonna get the tracking done anyway. also gotta find a way to re-fit me aerial after the mount snapped on a low branch!!
 
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