Ive pressure washed the underside of mine after a play in a local quarry .

what jobs have you done on yours ?
Mine overheats after about 15 miles and when I turn the heater on full the temperature goes back down to normal. Any ideas what’s wrong? New rad. Water pump.hetter tank cap and flush with new coolant. All air removed by lifting bottle and bleeding till no bubbles. Could it be the heater matrix? Please anyone.its not losing any coolant either.
 
Having started getting my new(ish) seat box in, I found that the new battery box doesn't fit 'cos of the exhaust we fabbed up being too close. The YRM box is a tad larger and squarer than the original, so it was a gnats away. Anyway I decided to cut and weld the exhaust and refit .. works a charm now!

So I also fixed the from A-bar over my winch, which meant the winch had to come off, then the bumper for drilling and fettling. I tend to over engineer stuff I make so the bumper's quite heavy and as it's a 16.5 winch, that also weighs a lot ... heavy lifting and a jack sorted it out ..Added new gearbox and transfer box breather pipes, made 'em look a bot neater then when I'd done them previously.View attachment 156003 View attachment 156004 View attachment 156005 View attachment 156006 View attachment 156007 View attachment 156008

Halfway through re-doing both props UJ's. Slight play on every one but it amounts to some clattering when on overrun, so while the floor is up..

Also a while ago, I de-stickered the green Simex tread all over the nearside ... cleaned a bit and tried the original Arran Beige colour on it. Looks good, though mine now looks old and sun-weary so might consider re-painting it ... same colour .. :)
That sounds like a very successful and satisfying days work. :)
Unlike mine :( I've failed to get my offside brake caliper off. For some reason the bolts have decided to seize. I'm pursuing a brake judder. Anyway, decided to replace wheel bearings and pivot bearings while I was on. Nearside sorted no bother. This side no go. Been away on holiday and tried again this afternoon. Hammered a 12mm multipoint socket from an old, small set I've got on one of the bolts. Felt it turning and thought ha, ha :D but it was the 3/8 extension bar shearing :mad: I tried a little bit of heat, but I had my calipers plastic coated in red (it was a phase I went through;)) so didn't want to put much heat on. Gave up and put everything away. Looks like I'll have to pull the whole assembly and half shaft ff the end of the axle so I get get at the bolt heads on the bench with a drill. The axle flange bolts were replaced at the rebuild 4 years ago, I put a ring spanner on two of them and they started moving easily enough, so looks like that's the plan. :rolleyes:
 
Mine overheats after about 15 miles and when I turn the heater on full the temperature goes back down to normal. Any ideas what’s wrong? New rad. Water pump.hetter tank cap and flush with new coolant. All air removed by lifting bottle and bleeding till no bubbles. Could it be the heater matrix? Please anyone.its not losing any coolant either.
Welcome to the forum!
You've picked an unusual thread to post on. You haven't mentioned changing the thermostat, which is where I would have started before doing anything else. If the heater matrix was blocked, why would it cool the engine down when you put the heater on? I'm not familiar with the Td5 cooling system, but simple things first - thermostat.
 
IMG_7437.JPG


When your already running late.
 
Took the wheel assembly and half shaft off the axle. Eventually managed to get the seized caliper bolts loose :D Ran out of time/light so wheel and pivot bearings will have to wait until tomorrow. :)
 
I've "upgraded" all the interior lights to LEDs, and now the 2 headlining lights don't completely go out..they fade but stay a liitle on..aggghhhh
An update, spoke to PowerfulUK and they have now sent me gratis 2 more LEDs with resistors that work just fine, apparently I'm the 4th customer with the issue, it seems that the 2011 cars had something slightly different
 

Similar threads