Just "installed", sorry I've just stuck on the top of the dashboard a little display unit for a tyre pressure monitoring system, the type of senders are the ones that replace the valve dust caps. Not for any particular reason, I just fancied having one. Just have to see how it goes. It's got a small solar panel on the top which charges an internal battery, so no trailing wires .... for now.


Be interesting to see if the calibration is spot on as its a pain removing all the dust caps dragging the airline round to find out the tyres are all fine.
 
Be interesting to see if the calibration is spot on as its a pain removing all the dust caps dragging the airline round to find out the tyres are all fine.

There are two things at play here, the accuracy of any pressure measuring device and the second reason for such a device being in use, a trend on each tyre.
The second reason is perhaps the easier to deal with, it's an indicator of a trend. We're all aware that the pressure in a tyre will probably drop over time, possibly months, and here the actual pressure indicated is of little value, but the rate at which it is observed to drop should indicate a fault, either a puncture, a badly seated bead, corrosion of the rim at the bead (a real problem with alloy wheels) or even a faulty valve.
The first reason, the accuracy, that will also depend upon the accuracy of the air line at the garage or whatever you used to inflate and check the pressure in the first place, bearing in mind that there is a "calibration tolerance" which must be allowed in the first place.
Say, for instance if you inflate the tyres to 30 psi at the garage and the TPMS then reads 30 then all is well with the world. If it should read 29 or 31 psi, so long as you're aware of the error, then all is still well with the world.
If you're going to have to remove all the caps and drag the airline around whenever you do decide to re-inflate the tyres.
And anyway, as I said in my first post, I bought it for no particular reason other than I would like one.
 
Done a fair bit of servicing today, changed all the gearbox and axle fluids, and the swivel oil. Also changed the brake linings all round, or at least two discs and one drum, the light went before I had finished.
 
I removed the bumper and cleaned the chassis ends of light rust before applying cure rust. Then it rained an hour later.
 
I've taped the vent flaps up with masking tape. :eek: Trying to sort a draft coming through the dash. Just about stopped it. Wasn't sure if it was the vent flaps or small unused bolt holes in the bulkhead under the bonnet. Sealed a few of those up too, but don't think those holes feed right through to the cabin. I've ordered another set of foam seals.
 
Off to Nottingham today to attend a conference with my newly repaired ECU. All seemed to go well:

I wonder if it's worth bothering to send the same firm my old ECU that blew at the end of 2014. It looks a bit ropey inasmuch as the garage levered the top off looking for faults. But if it can be mended it would do nicely as a spare. And if not, it might be of use to them for spares.
 
Drum itself is still serviceable, as are the slave cylinders. Slight wear inside the drum, but very straight, no cracking or pitting. Cant complain, I think these are original drums from 89! :) The rear brakes on a Ninety hard top don't actually do much.




 
Last edited:
Before starting on the pad change, I had sucked out the fluid from the master reservoir, to give the fluid from the calipers somewhere to go when the pistons were pushed back.
Now all the pads and shoes are done, I refill the reservoir with fresh fluid, and then go round the nipples with my vacuum bleeder, sucking the clean fluid through!




 
Just fitted the A bar and what a cause. Came off sweet went back on a little different, if you have pigs trotters or don't have the retaining clips for the captive nut then weld it on. I somehow managed to fluke it with some long nose pliers, still its done now.

Currently looks a bit daft without spot lights and it could do with the wolf style light guards to balance the bulky look.
 
So I watched a video on Uboob which intimated removing the heater box wasn't the most challenging job in the world. A couple of screws and four bolts, yes four. Well its still fitted to the bastid Defender two hours later.

I couldn't locate my 10mm socket for a start and even when I did it fell off and went inside the week arch cover, ended up getting it out with a telescopic magnet. Even after a spray of WD the bolts wouldn't shift, so now i'm going to have to grind the heads off the bolts on the inside instead as access is sketchy, might treat myself to a multitool.

Anyhow the wing is solid but the heater box isn't with the motor casing being badly corroded away, not even sure its salvageable, so its all balls IMO.
 
Fixed a dodgy wiring connection in the dark wi a head torch. Found the bastard loose behind the radiator grill. Fixed the headlights yeah.

Prepping for welding the bulkhead next week. Off the road with no MOT until it's done. I'm landy depressed, got to drive wife's Santa Fe.
 
Fixed a dodgy wiring connection in the dark wi a head torch. Found the bastard loose behind the radiator grill. Fixed the headlights yeah.

Prepping for welding the bulkhead next week. Off the road with no MOT until it's done. I'm landy depressed, got to drive wife's Santa Fe.

I thought you were gonna say you could see it sparking ... :eek::)
 
Tried touching up some scratches on Ruby this afternoon and f****d it up. So I got the paint restorer out and cleaned up someone's carpark bumper deposit.
 

Similar threads