Well....while driving home head a tremendous rattle at the back followed by what sounded like someone beating the inside of a metal bin, on inspection saw my rear prop disconnected from the rear axle...fortunately was around the corner from home so father in law picked up the wife and our son, grabbed my tools - half an hour removed prop, engaged diff lock and drove slowly the short distance home....Fortunately my new UJ's arrived the other morning so will be fitting them tomorrow - they look easy enough to do - any tips??
 
JoeC said:
Well....while driving home head a tremendous rattle at the back followed by what sounded like someone beating the inside of a metal bin, on inspection saw my rear prop disconnected from the rear axle...fortunately was around the corner from home so father in law picked up the wife and our son, grabbed my tools - half an hour removed prop, engaged diff lock and drove slowly the short distance home....Fortunately my new UJ's arrived the other morning so will be fitting them tomorrow - they look easy enough to do - any tips??
Click to expand...

Yeah a vice a hammer and a drift or socket. :D
 
Yesterday I started changing the wiring loom in the engine bay to use the front fog lamp wiring for Daytime Running Lamps (DRL).

Looks simple on the circuit diagram but finding the right wires and getting enough of them out of the loom to be able to get a connector on was awkward.

Today I saved the job of wiring up the switch inside the car because it's expected to rain.

Before any bright spark tells me DRLs don't need a switch I want one because they are likely to spend some time underwater so I would prefer to be able to cut off the power to them.
 
Fitted a new turbo conversion kit on my defender and wow need to up the fuel a bit more but it feels like I have had an engine transplant awesome power.
 
Have fitted two new door locks, n/s and o/s to my TD5, also got a new window frame to fit to near side rear door but I need the tin plate channel and seal that supports the quarter light glass, anyone got one going spare? Not too worried about seal as can improvise on that. Any help would be appreciated.;)
 
Fixed the washer jets, rear side light and the wobble on the hand brake drum ( big nut in the middle needed 1/4 of a turn on it ). It will be dropped back at the garage tomorrow where they are going to replace a rear brake cylinder ( normally would do myself but have not got time to be mucking around bleeding brakes ) and sort out the play on the swivel pin. Then MOT retest
 
Been looking at my mate's TD5 double cab Defender. He has a very different approach to Land Rovers to mine. He just drives it and does not take it to pieces. Consequently, he's got a good load of error codes. The ones that keep coming back after I clear them are 15,2 high speed crank error and 28,2 injector 2 peak charge short. The engine is running OK, so the major challenge to my ingenuity is not the faults per se, but getting him to do something about them.
 
Lined em up on the drive

20140825_165426_resized.jpg
 
Thankfully wasn't too rainy while I put my new UJ's on my rear prop, having lost one while driving at 60mph last night. Not a bad job and no real complications - Drives soooooo much better now - I don't feel like its about to shale itself apart!!! now for the front while I'm at it!!
 
put my centre console back in again so it was driveable in hi range. is it possible to turn the transfer selector round 180 so it kinks forward instead of back? or am I just dreaming. only reason I'm thinking of doing it is to get it away from the main gearstick when in hi range then I should be able to adjust the linkage to get hi and lo without the main gearstick knocking it out of hi
 
Took it for its MOT test... and failed on headlight aim and brakes. In the middle of fitting new brake pads and cleaning the oil off one of the discs.
 
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