Subframe?
kernowsvenski
Well-Known Member
Yeah, and rear diff, fuel tank cradle, rear arms, brake pistons and hoses, osf wishbone and track rod end, nsf driveshaft. Phew!
Your FL will love you even more.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
It'll be nicer to drive, once all the slop has been removed from the suspension.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Technically yours can still tow 2000kg, which is up there with the best EVs available at the moment. Our Ioniq 5 can only tow 1600kg, which seems to be about average for current larger EVs.Towed brother in law's Golf to the mechanic with it.
Funny thing was his Golf clutch pedal was stuck to the floor just like mine. His didn't go as well like that tho.
Who said EV's can't tow!
Alibro
Well-Known Member
That's true as officially the only thing that has changed is the method of propulsion.
I never understood how towing capacity was worked out, a Defender 90 can legally tow more than your Ioniq yet is much lighter.
The best bit about towing the Golf was the route to the mechanic has a fairly long and very steep hill which I was concerned about. I just dropped from 2nd (which is good for up to 45mph) to 1st and the car sailed up the hill like it wasn't there doing around 20mph.
Rank Amatuer
Well-Known Member
1) Driver's side wiper started flopping about yesterday as the drive arm on the shaft had lost it's grip. Don't know why. Proper fix would be a complete linkage set but, pro tem, I centre punched a row of deep dots around the joint to improve the grip.
2) Found the plug/socket for the RH side window demister/defroster disconnected, which explains why that side never worked since the windscreen was last replaced. It was very hard to re-engage so the windscreen fitter probably gave up after a few minutes struggle.
3) Fitted a new tailgate micro switch and number plate light assembly.
2) Found the plug/socket for the RH side window demister/defroster disconnected, which explains why that side never worked since the windscreen was last replaced. It was very hard to re-engage so the windscreen fitter probably gave up after a few minutes struggle.
3) Fitted a new tailgate micro switch and number plate light assembly.
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
Repair kit is available to hold the joints together. They work well and are more than a temporary fix...
Rank Amatuer
Well-Known Member
Sadly, these kits are for where the links articulate and are prone to wear and dropping off. Mine was the short link arm which is supposed to be a press fit onto the wiper arm spindle. I can only think the wiper must have been jammed and the press fit slipped.
But thanks for the link anyway; useful to know.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Not today, but over the weekend, I removed the rear subframe/ suspension assembly, in readiness for a shiny replacement subframe, replacement rear diff, and reconditioned hub assemblies. I also replaced the tank cradle for a new one, although it's going to need some modification to make it fit the tank support pads correctly.
Looks like you made good progress
Yesterday, I fitted a cheap Jeff-special 3rd party stand alone CarPlay screen to the FL1 that my daughter is now enjoying. It included a rear parking camera also.
Ok - it’s cheap and the camera quality is not great, but it certainly does its job in providing a rear view when reverse is engaged, and the CarPlay is quite good to be fair. Fairly quick, and the sat nav from the phone is great in the larger screen.
At the moment, the audio is connected to the Becker via the FM transmitter in the unit, which isn’t bad. Not sure if I want to faff about in running the 3.5mm plug from the unit to the car system
To be honest, I started looking at potential stand-alone units to put into the F2 last night!
Ok - it’s cheap and the camera quality is not great, but it certainly does its job in providing a rear view when reverse is engaged, and the CarPlay is quite good to be fair. Fairly quick, and the sat nav from the phone is great in the larger screen.
At the moment, the audio is connected to the Becker via the FM transmitter in the unit, which isn’t bad. Not sure if I want to faff about in running the 3.5mm plug from the unit to the car system
To be honest, I started looking at potential stand-alone units to put into the F2 last night!
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Thanks
Not too bad, although I did have to battle the old corrosion of the fasteners, and the hub nuts needed huge amounts of percussive persuasion to get them off. Thankfully the subframe to chassis bolts came out ok, which was my main concern.
I'm going to get the whole assembly built up over the week, ready to put back in next weekend.
Oh - and I tidied up the old subframe that I removed from the F2.
I’ve treated it and resprayed it, ready for listing on the Bay of E. I figure it’s ideal if someone doesn’t want to go to the expense of forking out for new parts. Looking at some of the salvage subframes listed on there, which are unprepared, I’d say it’s good.
If anyone is interested, drop me a pm. Would rather it went cheaper to an enthusiast who can make good use of it
I’ve treated it and resprayed it, ready for listing on the Bay of E. I figure it’s ideal if someone doesn’t want to go to the expense of forking out for new parts. Looking at some of the salvage subframes listed on there, which are unprepared, I’d say it’s good.
If anyone is interested, drop me a pm. Would rather it went cheaper to an enthusiast who can make good use of it
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
I have fed back to the suppliers many times about the pad holes being in the wrong place.
I use a tank cutter to correctly position them. They overlap with the factory holes but it sits right then.
I think the pattern used for folding and drilling is wrong !!
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Yes, the front pad holes are in the wrong place, although I've got around that by "easing" a bit more space on the front plates.
The worst fitment issue is at the rear rest points. The drivers side is perfect, but the cross brace has been welded too far rearward on the passenger side, so the brace doesn't sit correctly on the tank. I'm going to cut it off and weld it back on in the correct place.
I'll have some help next weekend, so I think I'll pull the cradle off again, to make the necessary adjustments.
