Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Welding it up could be an option then.
kernowsvenski
Well-Known Member
Well, since my post I've done more investigating. You were quite right about not being able to weld them for MOTs. I've found someone doing powder coated ones for £375, but I don't want to go down that route as my experience of powder coating is that once damaged (or not) moisture behind the coating can cause rapid corrosion. Anyway some local sand blasting chaps will blast one for me and spray with zinc primer and paint for £60. I can then add what ever coating i want. I just need to get hold of a second hand one somewhere.
Alibro
Well-Known Member
Drove it. 
For the first time since taking it off the road almost three weeks ago to sort the heater and tidy the Low Voltage junction box.
Everything that could go wrong did but I finally got the heater working and the newly tidied JB should make future upgrades or fault finding much easier.
For the first time since taking it off the road almost three weeks ago to sort the heater and tidy the Low Voltage junction box.
Everything that could go wrong did but I finally got the heater working and the newly tidied JB should make future upgrades or fault finding much easier.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Just get a good one blasted, then paint it with Bonda Rust primer. It's a very tough resin and zinc based primer which doesn't come off blasted steel. It's all I'll use under a top coat, as the stuff works better than anything else I've tried over the last 30 years. It's quite expensive, but it's definitely worth the money.
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kernowsvenski
Well-Known Member
Yep. That's the answer for sure. Also, I've found a chap in Liskeard breaking three vehicles. I've messaged him to see if he has a subframe and that I can collect, but so far, radio silence. I'm sure I'll be able to get one at some point from somewhere mind. I visited the local breakers yard but the cars there are all wheel-less and sitting in the mud so that's not an option.Just get a good one blasted, then paint it with Bonda Rust primer. It's a very tough resin and zinc based primer which doesn't come off blasted steel. It's all I'll use under a top coat, as the stuff works better than anything else I've tried over the last 30 years. It's quite expensive, but it's definitely worth the money.
Bonda Rust Primer Zinc All Sizes - Stops Rusting & Leaves Surface Ready To Paint | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Bonda Rust Primer Zinc All Sizes - Stops Rusting & Leaves Surface Ready To Paint at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products.www.ebay.co.uk
Rank Amatuer
Well-Known Member
Fixed my jammed rear seatbelt. Yeah!
kernowsvenski
Well-Known Member
I run mine at 34. I think the book says less iirc
kernowsvenski
Well-Known Member
Adjusted up my back brakes properly, and did another owut
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
30 PSI is the revised factory recommended pressure, which replaced the previous 26 PSI pressure when it was first released.
The factory tyres would likely have been Goodyear Wrangler HP or Michelin Latitude XL, IIRC. The side wall stiffness doesn't make a big difference on a 65% profile tyre, mostly just the pressure inside them. I used to run mine at 31 PSI, as I found the outside edges wearing slightly faster that the centre section on the tyres it had fitted.
It's best to start with the factory recommended pressure, then "tweak" it slightly based on the actual wear characteristics of the tyres fitted.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
What pressure have you been running them at?
Inside wear with good tracking is normally the lower wishbone bushes going soft, which causes the tyres to toe out under acceleration.
htr
Well-Known Member
Interesting - yes LR recommend 26PSI [ pressure depends on load ...] the tyre shop I frequent inflates to 32psi, [or more!] cold so they run at about 35psi 'hot'. I've noticed in the past that the centre of the tread wears more quickly at that pressure. So now I inflate to 28psi cold which is 31psi 'hot', which still feels good on the road. Yes I have a pressure monitoring system and the tyres are 215/70/15.
Today has been about the rear doors. OSR door would not open neither using the inside nor outside handle. A quick look on here to find this thread https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/freelander-door-stuck.95621/ and 10 minutes later
using a slim rounded knife blade to jiggle lock fully on, then off, and OSR door opens!
NSR Door central locking actuator hasn't worked in my tenure. New (s/hand!) door latch mechanism fitted, and for the first time in five years ownership all five doors work as Land Rover intended!
using a slim rounded knife blade to jiggle lock fully on, then off, and OSR door opens!
NSR Door central locking actuator hasn't worked in my tenure. New (s/hand!) door latch mechanism fitted, and for the first time in five years ownership all five doors work as Land Rover intended!
kernowsvenski
Well-Known Member
I'm not convinced Land Rover ever intended everything to work,
Not everything does! Next week I'm back to the rear diff supports, replacing the ones I fitted five years ago! Not original but... "Turning Owners into Mechanics . Land Rover, since 1948!"
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
Unpicked an HSE loom to identify where the LR reverse sensors and module are wired in ready to migrate it to the sport.
