Well that's fixed itself. Got to love a little win.It's started... Not had it a week and the drivers door auto fold mirror has lost it's fold. or at least its auto..
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Our Mazda CX5 was a bit like that. Some days it would fold, other's it wouldn't, this was from new too.
i previously typed ..
well .. turns out fer now i wuz wrong about .. the battery has reached life's end ;-[
i.e. if going by it's condition indicator .. the green ball 'tis now black ..
[ https://carput.my/the-truth-about-car-batterys-magic-eye/ ]
plus .. it's 6 years old .. ..
tbh .. last 2 times i started the engine there were a hint of failing battery symptoms ..
just a hint .. ..
so .. will replace the battery with a new one.
and .. today .. as i don't like the original terminal connectors ..
and the neg. t.connector seems a bit iffy .. couldn't undo the clamp nut,
and the connector spun as i were trying to loosen the nut ..
decided to replace the neg. battery lead ..
so .. this morn removed the old neg. lead ..
'n ordered a new one ..'n might see about upgrading the terminal connector as well. although .. given the mileage .. it wouldn't surprise me if the alternator needs replacing as well.
btw .. the neg. lead on mine be a 1,219mm length ..
[ noting .. as one can buy different length leads, with connectors from amazon ]
[ i see the lz site text strikethru bug as reappeared ;-[] ]
.
well .. turns out fer now i wuz wrong about .. the battery has reached life's end ;-[
i.e. if going by it's condition indicator .. the green ball 'tis now black ..
[ https://carput.my/the-truth-about-car-batterys-magic-eye/ ]
plus .. it's 6 years old .. ..
tbh .. last 2 times i started the engine there were a hint of failing battery symptoms ..
just a hint .. ..
so .. will replace the battery with a new one.
and .. today .. as i don't like the original terminal connectors ..
and the neg. t.connector seems a bit iffy .. couldn't undo the clamp nut,
and the connector spun as i were trying to loosen the nut ..
decided to replace the neg. battery lead ..
so .. this morn removed the old neg. lead ..
'n ordered a new one ..'n might see about upgrading the terminal connector as well. although .. given the mileage .. it wouldn't surprise me if the alternator needs replacing as well.
btw .. the neg. lead on mine be a 1,219mm length ..
[ noting .. as one can buy different length leads, with connectors from amazon ]
[ i see the lz site text strikethru bug as reappeared ;-[] ]
.
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MOT passed on '02 auto with MAF unplugged, though really bad values to normal if my interpretation is correct. Some advices
on rear break pipes corroded and seat belt on driver side fluffy or what they've called it.
Here is from some of the comments, someone explains it better:
"Hello, I bought your conversion kit in the bay and an additional Einhell charger and upgraded it with it. I'm excited! In the past I've brought dead car batteries back to life with a Megapulse and a CTEK charger. The difference now is that it works significantly faster. I'm a car nerd and in my career I've only had to hand in a battery at the recycling depot. The battery that has now been saved is actually 21 years old and has full capacity again even with the acid tester.
For all those who have doubts: "Reverse current charging" means that the battery is not thermally stressed as much as with normal charging. It can be seen that the battery acid is not reduced over a long charging period. To put it simply, the pulsing (longer charging pulses, short discharging pulses) blasts off accumulated sulfates, which lead to plate short circuits and thus make one or more battery cells unusable."
Is in German though. Only the header came up in English, but maybe he can make one in English. He put some more copper wire around the coil to give it more power as far as I understand, some capacitors and other bits and bobs in to get that charger. I bought an Einhell already but didn't get around to try myself. Couldn't get the kit on ebay as sold out.
PS Here is a bit translated, maybe gives an idea:
Convert a perfectly normal car battery charger to a Re-EMF charger?
This is eg. very easy and inexpensive with the Einhell chargers for car batteries.
And everyone probably has one of those lying around somewhere. If not, you can buy them new now for very cheap money. Check the usual suspects (ebay, amazon and Co.)
Getting to the parts for the Re-EMF Charger is a bit more complicated.
I did this work for you and put together a conversion set which you can use
can find on Ebay. Search for "Re-EMF conversion kit".
Components used and content of the conversion set:
1x transistor TIP 142
3x resistor 24ohm 1W
3x 10A 1000V diodes
1x capacitor 35V 5600microfarad
1x heatsink
1x thermal adhesive
1x ferrite ring
0.6 and 0.8mm enamelled copper wire, approx. 1.5m in length
1.12mm enamelled copper wire, approx. 2m in length
connection cable
on rear break pipes corroded and seat belt on driver side fluffy or what they've called it.
That is some kind of charging the battery differently which seems to clean the battery back to life. I've seen a video some time back from a bloke in Germany who showed how to do that with a cheap Einhell charger, listed the pieces.
Here is from some of the comments, someone explains it better:
"Hello, I bought your conversion kit in the bay and an additional Einhell charger and upgraded it with it. I'm excited! In the past I've brought dead car batteries back to life with a Megapulse and a CTEK charger. The difference now is that it works significantly faster. I'm a car nerd and in my career I've only had to hand in a battery at the recycling depot. The battery that has now been saved is actually 21 years old and has full capacity again even with the acid tester.
For all those who have doubts: "Reverse current charging" means that the battery is not thermally stressed as much as with normal charging. It can be seen that the battery acid is not reduced over a long charging period. To put it simply, the pulsing (longer charging pulses, short discharging pulses) blasts off accumulated sulfates, which lead to plate short circuits and thus make one or more battery cells unusable."
Is in German though. Only the header came up in English, but maybe he can make one in English. He put some more copper wire around the coil to give it more power as far as I understand, some capacitors and other bits and bobs in to get that charger. I bought an Einhell already but didn't get around to try myself. Couldn't get the kit on ebay as sold out.
PS Here is a bit translated, maybe gives an idea:
Convert a perfectly normal car battery charger to a Re-EMF charger?
This is eg. very easy and inexpensive with the Einhell chargers for car batteries.
And everyone probably has one of those lying around somewhere. If not, you can buy them new now for very cheap money. Check the usual suspects (ebay, amazon and Co.)
Getting to the parts for the Re-EMF Charger is a bit more complicated.
I did this work for you and put together a conversion set which you can use
can find on Ebay. Search for "Re-EMF conversion kit".
Components used and content of the conversion set:
1x transistor TIP 142
3x resistor 24ohm 1W
3x 10A 1000V diodes
1x capacitor 35V 5600microfarad
1x heatsink
1x thermal adhesive
1x ferrite ring
0.6 and 0.8mm enamelled copper wire, approx. 1.5m in length
1.12mm enamelled copper wire, approx. 2m in length
connection cable
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Alibro
Well-Known Member
I've heard of that too but have also heard its a con to make money on Youtube.
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
Found that the alternator had seized when I turned the starter ! Black smoke and a burnt belt.
Whoops.
Had the same on an MGF years ago. Bought it with a suspected seized engine and it was only the alternator stopping the battery turning it over !! Cheap fix !!
Whoops.
Had the same on an MGF years ago. Bought it with a suspected seized engine and it was only the alternator stopping the battery turning it over !! Cheap fix !!
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Quite. A dead battery is a dead battery.
If the plates have eroded, then there's nothing that can be done to repair them. Modern batteries have very thin plates with a waffle type pattern to increase surface area, but they also erode away quite quickly. Older design batteries had thicker plates, which took more time to erode, but any lead acid battery will be destroyed if it's allowed to go flat for any length of time.
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
Stripped alternator that had seized for some reason.
Front bearing jammed up.
Old one pressed out and new one on order.
Front bearing jammed up.
Old one pressed out and new one on order.
Dar ran Dar ran
Well-Known Member
A drive to Glasgow and back 320m round trip
Never missed a beat and a pleasant drive
I was seriously considering getting a mk2 Freelander but I just can’t see the point at the minute
Waiting Now see what happens in the coming months
Never missed a beat and a pleasant drive
I was seriously considering getting a mk2 Freelander but I just can’t see the point at the minute
Waiting Now see what happens in the coming months
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
Went to view a V6 G4 HSE Tangiers number 101 vehicle.
To buy or not to buy, that is the question !!
To buy or not to buy, that is the question !!
Alibro
Well-Known Member
Alibro
Well-Known Member
The auto translate is rubbish for this so I don't know what is being said.
Hippo
Lord Hippo
Found a short via the engine control computer but not sure if that should be there, as the 0v return for the signals, or not. The investigation continues...Bummer mate.
Apart from yourself that is.
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
Replaced the starter motor.
Regular 'Halfords' type places over here didn't have one. The local indie LR garage wanted $680 (£340) plus GST (VAT). Stealers could get 1 on a 4 week delivery ex UK, I didn't ask how much, but they did give me the name of an Auto Electrical outfit who they said repairs kit for them. So I gives them a call and they can get 1 to me in an hour for £279 inc GST - done deal.
So I extracted the old starter, fitted the new one delivered by courier (courier cost a fiver) and Bob's your uncle, she starts again
I now have 2 dead starters sitting in the garage. The original one packed up and was replaced by a new one (a Remy) that didn't last very long. Forget exactly when it was fitted, but it had a Sept 2015 label on it - so 6 1/2 years at most. I must restore 1 of them (the original Denso probably) in readiness for the current one packing a sad.
Good on the Rover guys for making the starter nice and accessible in the L Series. Makes it easy to replace from the top.
Regular 'Halfords' type places over here didn't have one. The local indie LR garage wanted $680 (£340) plus GST (VAT). Stealers could get 1 on a 4 week delivery ex UK, I didn't ask how much, but they did give me the name of an Auto Electrical outfit who they said repairs kit for them. So I gives them a call and they can get 1 to me in an hour for £279 inc GST
- done deal.So I extracted the old starter, fitted the new one delivered by courier (courier cost a fiver) and Bob's your uncle, she starts again
I now have 2 dead starters sitting in the garage. The original one packed up and was replaced by a new one (a Remy) that didn't last very long. Forget exactly when it was fitted, but it had a Sept 2015 label on it - so 6 1/2 years at most. I must restore 1 of them (the original Denso probably) in readiness for the current one packing a sad.
Good on the Rover guys for making the starter nice and accessible in the L Series. Makes it easy to replace from the top.
