This is going to be a massive restoration! Only thing I can find that stops it being mint are 5 discoloured wheel caps and a blown brake light bulb.
Really pleased, punchy 1.8 and I'd forgotten how much fun a gear lever can be!
 
It's a good thought - I guess if you were planning to do this, you'd do it as part of a general restoration of both front and rear subframes, steel suspension components and the fuel tank carrier (the latter could certainly do with the extra protection IMO)
 
Ho hum, the place where I get my blasting and powder done do galvanising too. I'll get some quotes and check what it adds to the weight.
Finished my underside survey of G4. All good, surface rust and maybe brake pipes within a year. I'll give it the standard AFL refurb in the summer.
 
rob_bell said:
It's a good thought - I guess if you were planning to do this, you'd do it as part of a general restoration of both front and rear subframes, steel suspension components and the fuel tank carrier (the latter could certainly do with the extra protection IMO)
Click to expand...
It would indeed. I've been thinking of making a FL1 electric powered, using the drive assembly from a Nissan Leaf. Preventing rust would go a long way to keeping the FL1 going for a long time.
andyfreelandy said:
Ho hum, the place where I get my blasting and powder done do galvanising too. I'll get some quotes and check what it adds to the weight.
Click to expand...

That would be interesting Andy. I've not had anything galvanized for many years, so I'd like to see how prices have risen.
 
Galvanising for something like that is definitely the way to go. Epoxy powder coating is "OK" but can't do the insides of the tubes. Polyester powder coating is what you get on cheap garden furniture. It's really naff and will flake off after a year or two. Galvanising adds very little weight unless there's no clear path for the zinc to drain out. I was pleasantly surprised to see a sign outside my local steel stockist the other month, saying that they now take in galvanising jobs. You just have to wait until they've collected enough jobs to make it worth sending a truck to the galvanisers. The only other problem I've had, is distortion. If you hot dip a welded fabrication, it can come back a slightly different shape. Obviously, for something like a fuel tank cradle, you can probably just bend it back to the right shape, but it gets harder with heavier structures.
 
Nodge68 said:
It would indeed. I've been thinking of making a FL1 electric powered, using the drive assembly from a Nissan Leaf. Preventing rust would go a long way to keeping the FL1 going for a long time.


That would be interesting Andy. I've not had anything galvanized for many years, so I'd like to see how prices have risen.
Click to expand...
Stuff that Nodge, Use a Tesla rear motor, 0 to 60 in 3 seconds. :p
 
Alibro said:
Stuff that Nodge, Use a Tesla rear motor, 0 to 60 in 3 seconds. :p
Click to expand...
Have you seen how much a second hand Tesla motor costs Ali?
Avocet1 said:
Can't help feeling the IRD might complain a tad!
Click to expand...
Not just the IRD. A Tesla motor would tear a Freelander 1 apart.

Hence I think the Nissan Leaf motor is a better option. And it'll couple to the original gearbox easy enough to make it a viable project.
 
Nodge68 said:
Have you seen how much a second hand Tesla motor costs Ali?

Not just the IRD. A Tesla motor would tear a Freelander 1 apart.

Hence I think the Nissan Leaf motor is a better option. And it'll couple to the original gearbox easy enough to make it a viable project.
Click to expand...
Nope, A Tesla motor has a built in diff and would just bolt into the rear subframe.

You wouldn't even need a VCU. :p
 
Alibro said:
Nope, A Tesla motor has a built in diff and would just bolt into the rear subframe.

You wouldn't even need a VCU. :p
Click to expand...

I know the Tesla drive unit is fully self contained, so has the motor, diff and the inverter too.

I was thinking about retaining the FL1s AWD although I expect the Tesla front drive unit could also be used at the front to add AWD.

I've seen the Tesla power unit fitted in lots of vehicles, if suitable modifications are made, however it's still a stupidly expensive power option, even if it is a good one. The chap in the video (I forgot his name), doesn't seem to have a budget limit, spending vast amounts of money, on vehicles just for fun. I stopped watching his antics a while ago, as he doesn't have a concept of real world values.
 
I find this guy pretty entertaining and since he has no fabrication skills whatsoever the end result of this purchase is better than expected.
For the size of the motor it makes great power.


Something like this would make a great hybrid buy replacing the VCU with the motor. :p
 
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