Are all car expensive over there or just certain types/makes?
I think cars tend to start out at the same sort of price as cars in the UK, but Kiwis tend to be much more likely to fix things when they go wrong than throw it out, so things retain their value for longer. As an example, I just looked on gumtree.co.uk and ebay.co.uk and while there are quite a few Triumph cars for sale 75, they are mainly high end collectables such as TRs & Stags with only 1 2000/2500. I just checked on trademe.co.nz and there are 21 Triumphs for sale and 8 of them are 2000's or 2500's being sold as cars to just buy and use as much as collectables. By way of comparison, there are probably about 500 Freelander 1s for sale in the UK at the moment, but only about 25 in New Zealand. That's not because they have been scrapped, just because there are not many of them here (in big part because there are 15 times as many people in the UK)

There are a lot of F1s for sale in the UK with prices of £3k to £5k. It seams that while the cheap ones are very cheap in the UK, the cheap ones are not so cheap over here. I suppose that ties in with fix it and use it. The other thing is that parts are hugely expensive here - even if you're after something like an oil filter, its cheaper to buy from a UK supplier and have it couriered over. Which goes some way to explaining why I paid the best part of £500 for my deregistered, crashed and mechanically broke parts car.
 
I think cars tend to start out at the same sort of price as cars in the UK, but Kiwis tend to be much more likely to fix things when they go wrong than throw it out, so things retain their value for longer. As an example, I just looked on gumtree.co.uk and ebay.co.uk and while there are quite a few Triumph cars for sale 75, they are mainly high end collectables such as TRs & Stags with only 1 2000/2500. I just checked on trademe.co.nz and there are 21 Triumphs for sale and 8 of them are 2000's or 2500's being sold as cars to just buy and use as much as collectables. By way of comparison, there are probably about 500 Freelander 1s for sale in the UK at the moment, but only about 25 in New Zealand. That's not because they have been scrapped, just because there are not many of them here (in big part because there are 15 times as many people in the UK)

There are a lot of F1s for sale in the UK with prices of £3k to £5k. It seams that while the cheap ones are very cheap in the UK, the cheap ones are not so cheap over here. I suppose that ties in with fix it and use it. The other thing is that parts are hugely expensive here - even if you're after something like an oil filter, its cheaper to buy from a UK supplier and have it couriered over. Which goes some way to explaining why I paid the best part of £500 for my deregistered, crashed and mechanically broke parts car.
Oh well that explains that then :) but I would have thought if prices were high for such basic things as oil filters it would bring the price of the vehicle down? As people might not want to spend so much on an older car and just buy a newer one,even with the fix it attitude there must be a point where it’s not viable? Or is that just my thinking been part of the throw it away culture:oops:
 
Oh well that explains that then :) but I would have thought if prices were high for such basic things as oil filters it would bring the price of the vehicle down? As people might not want to spend so much on an older car and just buy a newer one,even with the fix it attitude there must be a point where it’s not viable? Or is that just my thinking been part of the throw it away culture:oops:
You should see how much the parts cost for newer cars!
 
You should see how much the parts cost for newer cars!
I’ll give that a miss thanks :p I begrudge paying prices over here.especially with the government using so called global warming as an excuse to Increase........wait there I’m going off topic onto something I know sod all about better get back in my bubble :confused:
 
There are a few transportation companies that shift cars around the country, but I don't think I'd get any change out of £500 to get one shipped from the North Island. tbh I wouldn't trust anyone selling a car - private or dealer - if the car only had what they said was wrong, that would be a real bonus :)

I think the 2002 car in Nelson only has an expired WOF because its been for sale for so long - which is one reason why I think they might be more flexible on price. In a comment on the auction, they also said back in April that they'd take £2K for a "quick sale".
But why wouldn't they test it ? Even if it failed you'd know the expense of what it needs , buy a Honda they work lol
 
04 Td4 with 155k - bastid fuel pump failed on the way to the airport :eek:

Wife was doing an impression of a guineafowl’s evening chatter...

I went under the car and thumped the pump cradle - Fonzy style - and it started working again. No applause from the wife, though...

Mate lent us his Golf Mk4 and we got there. Couldn’t trust the pump after that.

Ordered a decent pump (couldn’t find a Pierburg) made by TI Automotive - £120. Fitted today with a good filter.

Cut apart old pump - commutator was well worn and had a chipped segment. This is the third fuel pump I’ve dealt with. If we get another Td4, I might just change the fuel pump at 120k as a matter of course.
 
I do have a weighty torque wrench but rounded 1 if the corners attempting it. Theyre super soft & in all round bad shape. Pre wd40'd but to no avail.

Looks like I could do with new calipers etc is cutting the bolts & replacing everything a possibility if all else fails?
 
I do have a weighty torque wrench but rounded 1 if the corners attempting it. Theyre super soft & in all round bad shape. Pre wd40'd but to no avail.

Looks like I could do with new calipers etc is cutting the bolts & replacing everything a possibility if all else fails?
Hex sockets or multi point? If not hex you need to go buy some new sockets. ;)
 
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Hmm forgive my lack of knowledge I've only just started getting hands on with a vehicle & owning tools etc.

By Hex sockets do you mean just standard 6 point sockets? & are multipoint sockets aka 12 point? I have normal, torx, & I heard 12 point sockets tend to slip on nuts that are naturally more rounded on the edges

I'll be buying every variation of 12mm socket I can tomorrow & if all else fails I'll pop to a garage or cut them off & replace whole brake assembly. (If that's an option)
 
Hmm forgive my lack of knowledge I've only just started getting hands on with a vehicle & owning tools etc.

By Hex sockets do you mean just standard 6 point sockets? & are multipoint sockets aka 12 point? I have normal, torx, & I heard 12 point sockets tend to slip on nuts that are naturally more rounded on the edges

I'll be buying every variation of 12mm socket I can tomorrow & if all else fails I'll pop to a garage or cut them off & replace whole brake assembly. (If that's an option)
Yes, hex sockets have six sides, the same as your nuts.......



and bolts. :p

So they grip the whole bolt head and not just the corners.
Common sizes are 10, 13, 15, 17, 18 and 19
Halfords advanced are pretty good but Bahco are my choice and not too dear either.
Something like this would be a great start to your tool kit.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bahco-S2...m=360543123107&_trksid=p2045573.c100507.m3226
 
Oh ok good good sockets are In abundance albeit cheap Neilson/Ronson tat.

Once I've finished spending on parts etc I shall invest in some better stuff. The cheap wrenches have lasted for a single use on both occasions. Sockets added to watch list & thanks for the input
 
Oh ok good good sockets are In abundance albeit cheap Neilson/Ronson tat.

Once I've finished spending on parts etc I shall invest in some better stuff. The cheap wrenches have lasted for a single use on both occasions. Sockets added to watch list & thanks for the input
Give the bolt heads a good few whacks with a hammer. Don’t be afraid - big hammer, as hard as you can. Get a decent 2 or 3 foot breaker bar, and use a short, 6-point socket. Get a helper to put their boot on the head of the bar to stop it twisting off.

If it’s the caliper slide bolts, they can be cut off - replacements readily available. You could also feasibly remove the whole caliper and have it in the vice to work on. A 6-point ring spanner is surprisingly effective, with another spanner linked in to increase leverage - they turn the bolt more directly than a socket, which is turned from a slight distance from the bolt head.
 
Washed it
IMG_20180803_173813.jpg

Happy now:)
Mike
 
pulled the prop shafts & vcu, prompted by a metalic rattle from under the car when moving and a repetative thumping from the rear left in low speed corners or at low speed decelerating to a stop in gear.
Took it for a drive after removing the the props and vcu - all the noises are gone away.
So it's 2 wheel drive only till I diagnose and repair the faults in the transmission.

Cheers
SImon
 

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