Quick question in case anyone knows the answer: can I buy the plug male/female pins separately?

The plug is silly cheap though: I’ve simply bought another, but I’m thinking about other plugs/ sockets etc?
 
can I buy the plug male/female pins separately?

If you can identify the plug type used, then yes you normally can get the individual components separately.
Edit:
They look like Tyco Mate N Lok, or a 2.8mm blade version it. w
Which means you should be able to get the parts separately, in huge bags if needed. I'll look through my normal suppliers catalogue for something and link it for you.
 
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I may PM you about this Nodge. It's for another project - pins needed for the rotary connector to the steering wheel, an ECU plug (2.0 CDTi - Siemens I guess?) and maybe a couple of others...
 
Just fitted the 2nd replacement slave / master cylinder the one I fitted last week was leaking at the pedal end must be a internal fault on seals so replaced for free
Also the clutch arm is very free now I used a concoction of engine oil , wd40, and plus gas :D:D
 
Tonight, I’ve been messing around with an MGF rear view mirror ;)

It came without a plug (someone had cut it off - d’oh!) But it was cheap as a result ;)

I have extended the leads...

View attachment 153688

And added a three-pin plug:

View attachment 153690

But bad news, the Chinese chappie who packed my plug put in 4 female terminals and two male: aaarrggh!

View attachment 153692
Do these mirror,s fit strait on the freelander 1 ?? I may invest in one we have a good Landrover/rover breakers in bradford
 
Do these mirror,s fit strait on the freelander 1 ?? I may invest in one we have a good Landrover/rover breakers in bradford

They're identical, except the MGF mirror has lights on the underside, in place of the little recesses of the factory mirror. ;)
 
Will start writing here folks ;)
Changed rear diff mounts but no effect on clunking.
Changed cluthch hydraulics. Slave seemed almost dead and maybe killed her on way out. Lack of use over last few years had slave piston corroded.
Bearmacch replacement seemed to fallapart but they do seem know nd enough to send a replacement. So will see if my car runs soon...
 
Will start writing here folks ;)
Changed rear diff mounts but no effect on clunking.
Changed cluthch hydraulics. Slave seemed almost dead and maybe killed her on way out. Lack of use over last few years had slave piston corroded.
Bearmacch replacement seemed to fallapart but they do seem know nd enough to send a replacement. So will see if my car runs soon...
Have you lubricated the clutch release arm? They seize up and wreck slaves
 
I'm still getting a knocking noise when I turn the wheel so instead of changing track rod ends I may aswell change the complete arms
Replacing track rod ends is a simple easy job, replacing the rods is a nightmare job.
I know which I'd be doing first.
 
I'm still getting a knocking noise when I turn the wheel so instead of changing track rod ends I may aswell change the complete arms

I'm going to be taking my track rods off soon myself. I've got a creak from the from the front, which I can't find. :confused:
 
My noise seems to be coming from the centre if I'm sat in the car with engine off so thought a complete set of arms and track rods would be easier to do
 
My noise seems to be coming from the centre if I'm sat in the car with engine off so thought a complete set of arms and track rods would be easier to do
It might be worth trying to tighten up the bolts first. They are fitted with lots of thread lock so if you do need to replace them the bolts will fight you to the end. :(
I used a standard spanner to remove mine and had no issues apart from the constant stream of swearing as I fought them. My torx sockets are 1/2" and were too big to fit.
 

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