You'll need to put the clamp round the exhaust connection with the EGR blanking disk.;)

Nice to see another auto on the forum.:)
Hi Nodge, I did put the clamp on the exhaust connection after I took the pic :)
Just thought I'd better take a pic before I forgot lol
 
Been having a go at the OWUT this morning, seemed to move like the second hand on a clock, not smoothly, and took about 1 min 15 secs for a 6kg weight.:(
 
Replaced radiator :(, let's see if this one lasts longer than two years. Fixed an annoying oil weep to my after market engine oil cooler the the rad' was out.
 
tried to put a new o/s door lock motor in today and no joy.
so put a new sunroof motor in and it works great.(I do like my sunroof unlike a lot of people)
 
You need a new or Bell Engineering reconditioned VCU asap;)
I think so Nodge, mind you it has done just over 120k, so it's not surprising. I'll get a set of carrier bearings too, as there is a fair bit of movement up and down if I push up on the propshafts
 
I think so Nodge, mind you it has done just over 120k, so it's not surprising. I'll get a set of carrier bearings too, as there is a fair bit of movement up and down if I push up on the propshafts
Bell supply the complete assembly for under £300. ;)
 
I think so Nodge, mind you it has done just over 120k, so it's not surprising. I'll get a set of carrier bearings too, as there is a fair bit of movement up and down if I push up on the propshafts
Give the back axel diff mounts a good check too as a warn VCU is hard on them. I used poly bushes last time and so far so good. They're a bit more work but a lot cheaper than OEM and more likely to last than Cheapo ebay.
 
Give the back axel diff mounts a good check too as a warn VCU is hard on them. I used poly bushes last time and so far so good. They're a bit more work but a lot cheaper than OEM and more likely to last than Cheapo ebay.
Already changed them a few weeks ago Alibro, front one as well, although it looked like it was new-ish, the back ones were both in a bad way.
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Air Filter changed
Turbo Filter changed
ERG Blanking kit fitted and tested (TD4)
Front ARB Suspension Struts replaced.

Result, a much quieter, pokier, hopefully more economic, and no more knocking from the suspension Freelander 1.
 
Full exhaust including both cats.

Heard it blowing and thought it would last a week, but it snapped off at the manicat the next day, rest of it didn't look too good so I replaced the lot, second cat had completely disintegrated.

£250 and 2 hours of ****ing about
 
After buying my freelander two days ago and having done 140 miles on odd tyres I put new tyres all around today. Found and sorted an annoying rattle yesterday. Today brake light above spare wheel fixed. Pulled my trailer to find that an indicator and brake lights on trailer board needs sorting....so job for tomorrow. Also rear window trying to drop on door opening but failing so taking back for them to fix along with srs light on and needing attention
 
My blue TD4 has a metallic rattle on idle. Can't see any metal particles in the air but suspecting the pulley. Was it a big job and how did you know yours was faulty?

Thanks
It wasn't really a big job at all Ali, I used a breaker bar wedged against the wishbone, removed the electrical conectors from the injectors, and turned the engine for a couple of seconds to loosen the bolt. Then I cleaned all the melted rubber from the side of the engine, which had been deposited as the pulley was coming apart! Put on the new pulley and bolt hand tight and fitted the air-con drive belt, before tightening the bolt up, and fitting the serpentine belt. I knew mine was goosed because it had a hell of a metallic rattle on idle too, and I could see the rubber wasn't holding the inner and outer metal parts separate as it should have. The wife said it sounded like a sherman tank :oops: Runs very quietly on idle now though :D
 

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