tonytherunner said:
Nice ,what specs are the sub ? amplifier ?
Click to expand...
I'm using a good 8" Kevlar cone woofer and a 150W RMS budget amp. I'm still working out the sub configuration. Sealed cover on the cubby box, or tuned ported enclosure.
I've got it mounted on a ply lid, with the cubby as the enclosure at the moment. It sounds pretty good, but it I expect it will improve with a turned enclosure.
 
Whatever you choose will need enough cubic capacity and no leak air around...
in a car audio the percent is like this.....5% product, 90% installation 5% beer :)

some people ....really don't need extra space
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Last edited:
Added some extra gauges and started my remote oil filter install
IMG_7483.JPG


I have a water temp gauge but the cooling system is behaving, if it ain't broke..... I have run an extra 4 wires so I can install it when needed, plus I have spares for other extras now
 
Busy afternoon tinkering, EGR deleat, pcv upgrade to the BMW one, new synergy 2a Ron box and maf sensor.
I can now pull out into traffic and feel safe knowing it will actually pull away. I have only had the car a couple of months and have lost count the amount of times someone has almost gone into the side of me on round abouts.
It now pulls like a dream.
 
Alibro said:
Sounds like a good plan. Now were coming into better weather it would be nice to be able to close the door with the window down without that horrible noise. o_O
Click to expand...

I have two annoying rattles in my 55 plate. One is the rear view mirror which does it every now and again. The other one I married and is constant!
 
First oil change today. Knew it was overfull but....

Out came 7+ litres of blackish gunk. New oil and filter, still going OKish, but next step is to take the inlet manifold off and give it a compression test.

IRB is leaking so that needs attention as well.
 
Fitted my filter and gauges
Swapped the flickering sidelights
Swapped the rear bulb holders for oem ones, no more flashing lights while braking
Serviced it
Gave the interior a damn good clean
Looked at fixing the headrest screens but I think one is knacked

Still to do

Both driveshaft oil seals now leaking
Rear check strap needs welding, I have the kit but not the inclination this week
Replace the snapped aerial
 
Tony Reeves said:
First oil change today. Knew it was overfull but....

Out came 7+ litres of blackish gunk. New oil and filter, still going OKish, but next step is to take the inlet manifold off and give it a compression test.

IRB is leaking so that needs attention as well.
Click to expand...
Can you give me some feed back when you've dealt with the IRB please.
 
Today I decided to fix the coolant leak, that has been getting steadily worse.

I used my endoscope to check the hidden seal on the top hose joint. Sure enough, the seal was leaking. So I ordered one of these
20170423_100415.jpg

I stripped off the inlet manifold inlet manifold to gain access to the pipe.
20170423_122156.jpg

When I removed the top hose stub, the reason for the leak became obvious
20170423_102803.jpg

So I had found the cause of the trouble.

While the engine was stripped. I took the opportunity to change the oil, oil filter, air filter and crankcase filter too.
I also fitted the Rover Ron recommended Peirburg MAF and set my Synergy to compensate for the MAF.
I also changed the fuel rail pressure regulator O ring while it was easy to get at. Interestingly I found a small piece of plastic bag inder the seal.
20170423_111922.jpg


The Peirburg MAF has transformed the engine and having fresh oil has made it quieter too.
So in all a worthwhile day. I'm looking forward to not topping up the coolant every day too.
 
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I had a leaky flexi exhaust connection.
So replaced it by cutting the pipe in front and behind of it and putting in a flexible pipe length instead.
s-l400.jpg

Cost :-
£25 including clamps, putty, pipe.

Better than nearly 60 for whole pipe. And when the rest of it eventually fails, which it no doubt will, I can still fit the original item.
Hopefully that wont be for a long time yet as it is all still in very good condition. Just the flexible pipe had failed.
 
Fitted a Navman MiVUE630 dash cam today.I was a bit worried pulling off the A post trim and lowering the hood lining in case they didn't go back - but took the plunge ran the wire and they went back OK.

I had tried using my phone and an app as a dashcam previously and it was a shaking disaster, but really pleased with the output from this. 'First test' - round the block at 200kmh...

 
GrumpyGel said:
Fitted a Navman MiVUE630 dash cam today.I was a bit worried pulling off the A post trim and lowering the hood lining in case they didn't go back - but took the plunge ran the wire and they went back OK.

I had tried using my phone and an app as a dashcam previously and it was a shaking disaster, but really pleased with the output from this. 'First test' - round the block at 200kmh...

Click to expand...

Bloody hell, those L-series go like stink!
 
It has the latest in stability control technology installed - I did slow down for them, but did you see how well it took the speed bumps at 80kmh :)
 
Stripped front calipers to try and get rid of stinking smell. Took caliper soff and pistons were free but bottom sliders were both stuck.
Looks like rubber sleeves have swolloen and are loose. They were both bound up in the holes.
Trimmed them back so they were a good sliding fit but expect to need new sliders sooner rather than later!

Oh, and changed the pollen filter. I think it needed doing!
IMAG0845.jpg
 
Swapped the snapped aerial and base, now I can get radio :)

Also fitted roof bars, I wanted a rack but £130 vs £30 when I've just started a business wasn't a hard choice

Waiting on a new lambda sensor and I can finish my exhaust swap, which includes removing the manicat
 
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