hi
my job today was to put the glass back in the rear door
im in the back door more than the wifes underwear
i see you have a rag top mine has one but how the fook does it work
ive got four strips in a big bag where do they go?
cheers
my job today was to put the glass back in the rear door
im in the back door more than the wifes underwear
i see you have a rag top mine has one but how the fook does it work
ive got four strips in a big bag where do they go?
cheers
kernowsvenski
Well-Known Member
Discovered quite a bit of oil in the expansion tank today. First port of call is the oil cooler I guess? TD4s aren't known for HGF really are they?
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
I know that one.
It is.
Not at all. Oil cooler is the first thing to change.
Philgt50
Well-Known Member
For the soft top like mine there are 2 window pieces, 2 rubber corner pieces and the main piece is the large material covering with the struts etc attached. There is also a shower cover which is different again; I think you will have to have a hunt around to find exactly what you have got and then how to do it. Instructions will be here somewhere for both. The top I have is not hard to fit when it was shown to me by the guy I bought it off. I think I would have probably ended up burning it if I had to try and work it out myself. If you can take pictures of what you have and post them on here someone will be able to identify them for sure.
Lyndasbottom
Active Member
Tried to replace the missing aircon drive belt on my FL1 TD4 but gave up trying to get a 24mm spanner on the tensioner to release the main belt. Who thought "Let's put this right out of the way and with no clearance as well as only leaving part of the bolt head protruding just to make it a bit more of a challenge?". I'll give it another go tomorrow when I've got a bit more time.
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
A tip on slackening the belt tensioner. The bolt is actually 15/16 inch and you need a flatish ring spanner, an open end will round the bolt head. I put a thin piece of wood on top of the fitted spanner as a wedge to jam it on and prevent slippage. I also put a tube on the spanner for extra leverage. DON'T put your fingers between the belt and any pulley as if the tensioner spanner slips you will loose a pinky !!!
Philgt50
Well-Known Member
I think that when I replaced the belts I used a 24mm ring spanner that fit very securely; bought it specially. Also had to have wheel off I believe. When you have found a really decent fitting spanner the thing that needs to be emphasised really strongly is that to move the tensioner enough to make the job easy you have to really give it LOADS OF WELLY to turn it the tensioner enough to get the belt on and off. I kept holding back thinking I was going to damage it but that’s not so; it’s just really stiff so make sure you have a really good fit on the spanner. And I think I also used a piece of wood or something to keep the spanner on to the bolt head like Andyfreelandy said.Tried to replace the missing aircon drive belt on my FL1 TD4 but gave up trying to get a 24mm spanner on the tensioner to release the main belt. Who thought "Let's put this right out of the way and with no clearance as well as only leaving part of the bolt head protruding just to make it a bit more of a challenge?". I'll give it another go tomorrow when I've got a bit more time.
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kernowsvenski
Well-Known Member
Damn it
Philgt50
Well-Known Member
Today I replaced the small rectangular piece of plastic inside the front wheel arch which you apparently remove to access the indicator bulb which appears to have been missing for a while but I did not even know existed until I noticed the hole last week! Freelander; a never ending source of time and money consumption.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
That's not good. I think I've just been about half a mile from where you took that picture. You should have messaged me for assistance.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
They're often missing on the Rover 75 too (same part), as nobody ever puts the locking scrivets back in, after changing the bulbs.
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Today replaced oil cooler and fitted thermostat in top hose, as per a thread on here, and it works a treat so far. Temp gauge holding steady at halfway mark.
This is as good a place as any to say thanks to the site and the members who have posted in the past. I've never worked on cars before but have so far done the above and full service and replaced the wiring loom for the high pressure fuel sensor, which also is holding steady and solved the cut out problem (touch wood, not tempting fate). I wouldn't have attempted any of it without access to the threads on here.
This is as good a place as any to say thanks to the site and the members who have posted in the past. I've never worked on cars before but have so far done the above and full service and replaced the wiring loom for the high pressure fuel sensor, which also is holding steady and solved the cut out problem (touch wood, not tempting fate). I wouldn't have attempted any of it without access to the threads on here.
kernowsvenski
Well-Known Member
HP pump seal has let go rather abruptly I think.
Second pic?
That's not good. I think I've just been about half a mile from where you took that picture. You should have messaged me for assistance.
I did consider it to be fair @Nodge68 but it was a fairly swift diagnosis and I only had to wait 30 mins for the RAC. I was literally two minutes from home too!
Had a new HP pump about three years ago so it is quite frustrating if I'm honest.
