Done a Haldex service on my new (to me) 2010 FL2 - Gen 4 Haldex - followed a good youtube video by a guy that did a Volvo - used the same tricks as him except I just "kissed" the corner of the flange with an ungaurded grinder to let the pump just pop off in my hand - His tip on making a hot spike to flip out the plastic bit in front of the filter worked well too. Biggest problem was some pillock had round off the filler plug - had to cut down a 6 sided socket and weld it to a lump of bar to make a good enough spanner to get the plug out. Hawkeye reported no faults and a bash up and down wet grassy slopes confirmed it's all working extremelty well.
But hey - takes me back to Series Landy days when you could not do anything without the "hot spanner" I used both oxy and Arc on this just making the tools
Have yer got a link to the vid?
 
I just worked off one pair of ramps but four bits of 5" x 3" give me enough to slip under to do the final levels as my garage floor is flat and level - slim line Hippo ramps (;-))>
 
That was an unexpectedly busy evening!
Today my new VIS motors arrived from the UK after being in the mail for over a month. (Our posties were out on strike through November)
A quick job after dinner-NOT!
I swapped the motors over but the power VIS was running a bit slow. Pulling it off revealed that there was quite a bit of drag at the end of the power VIS operating rod's travel.
I put it back together thinking I would swap out the intake plenum on the weekend then I had a think and realised I didn't want to burn out another VIS motor, so I sucked it up
and went back to the garage and swapped out the plenum.
I got it done in record time in spite of having to dress the edges of the balance flap to minimise the load on that VIS.
All done now. It will be interesting to see the improvement on the drive to work tomorrow. It has been a dog accelerating with a dead power VIS.

UPDATE: After 3 days of driving the Hippo on my daily commute there has been a major improvement in performance. It shifts as it should (With the power VIS dead in the open position airflow was totally screwed up) and has much better acceleration. I had it up to 5000RPM accelerating on the freeway on ramp which was impossible before. It's like a new Hippo! Today's job is to clear the codes again so that I can keep an eye on things.
 
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In the week I noticed the exhaust was hitting the boot floor on starting, so today took a look at the rear box. I noticed the welded on pipe hanger was completely missing, leaving just the rubber hanger fitted to the body dangling free and doing nothing. This allowed the back box to bounce about when the engine was started from cold.

So I fitted a replacement exhaust hanger, which I fabricobbled together from parts found in my assorted parts store. I used my favourite type of exhaust clamp, some perforated metal strip, a 6" length of 8mm studding and some nuts.

The exhaust clamp was a bit too large to clamp tight to the pipe, so the perforated strip was used as a filler to take to the extra space. The exhaust clamp was the clamped up around the pipe with the long length of studding sticking out the side. This along with the nuts formed the new hanger, which works better than the original.
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I did need to do a bit of adjustment, but now the back box doesn't hit the boot floor, and is held up tighter to the body than it was.
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I just need to get to the bottom of the transmission issue now.
 
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Today I started doing a few little jobs, mainly cleaning. The one thing I did do that has turned out well is added wireless charging to one of the rubber covers that sit on the dash board. Got it to line up nicely with the Land Rover emblem. Next main job is to install front and rear cameras.
 
Finally had the guts to fit the in-line stat mod. Also took the time to clean-ish the inlet manifold and replace the gaskets.

So far, so good. I didn’t realise how much I was relying on my heated seats. Now there is proper heat blasting out the vents.
 
Today I removed the fourth door card from my 2005 FL1. The passenger rear - to fit a new regulator and speaker. I've previously done the drivers door twice (once for regulator and once for a speaker), passenger front (for a speaker), and the boot door (for a sticky solenoid). Upon taking each card off, they all revealed that work had been done before. I'm assuming that each door has already had a regulator go prior to my ownership lol. This weekend I'll be doing the driver's side rear door. I wonder if that'll be the same...
 
I decided to test the HDC in anger today in the hills of Northumberland. It took a bit of guts to let go of the footbrake and allow the car to do its thing. It was much better than I thought it’d be, and way better than I could have managed. However it was (what I’d say) noisy each time the HDC kicked in, but no nosier than when say the ABS kicks in so I guess that’s normal.

Anyway, I’m pleased to know it works and as a bonus the HDC button is no longer sticking.
 

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Today I removed the fourth door card from my 2005 FL1. The passenger rear - to fit a new regulator and speaker. I've previously done the drivers door twice (once for regulator and once for a speaker), passenger front (for a speaker), and the boot door (for a sticky solenoid). Upon taking each card off, they all revealed that work had been done before. I'm assuming that each door has already had a regulator go prior to my ownership lol. This weekend I'll be doing the driver's side rear door. I wonder if that'll be the same...
Probably. :(
 
I decided to test the HDC in anger today in the hills of Northumberland. It took a bit of guts to let go of the footbrake and allow the car to do its thing. It was much better than I thought it’d be, and way better than I could have managed. However it was (what I’d say) noisy each time the HDC kicked in, but no nosier than when say the ABS kicks in so I guess that’s normal.

Anyway, I’m pleased to know it works and as a bonus the HDC button is no longer sticking.
LR left the hdc noise in to make the user aware it was active. Same with traction control and the pulse through the foot brake. They can engineer it out but chose not to as it tells the user it's active.
 
However it was (what I’d say) noisy each time the HDC kicked in, but no nosier than when say the ABS kicks in so I guess that’s normal.

If you can hear the ABS modulator making a lot of noise, then it could be due a brake fluid change. If the noise you hear is coming from individual corners, then that's the brakes being grabbed on and off. The modulator can't apply the brakes softly like a human can with the brake pedal. Instead it just sends high pressure fluid in a series of pulses, which make the brakes snatch on and release rapidly. What you hear is any slight slack in the brakes and suspension being removed rapidly, which makes a banging noise.
 

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