@htr
I saw a suggestion on here about using a VW coolant tank/bottle, I think they're cheaper too!. When mine goes again that's the path I'll go down and I'll use the old cracked bottle to make the cradle to hold the new VW bottle. Those caps come in a variety of pressures too so you could go to a 115Kpa cap?
Click to expand...

cheers for that info :)

i also noticed the tank securing screw were missing
no idea if that would cause the seam to come apart
had some work done at the local LR place .. front offside inner cv boot replaced
maybe they had to move the tank ? ..

in any case it's done similar mileage as the prev. tank ..
( but then .. i didn't replace the cap .. used the old one )
and the old one cracked around the filler cap ..
( no cracks around cap on this one )

will have a new tank and cap sometime early this week ..
for now have reinforced the seam with cable ties .. tank aint leaking coolant
( there've been no coolant loss .. or coolant running hotter than normal )
even so .. am avoiding driving 'till the new tank arrives

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a.t.b.

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Old diver said:
Passed its mot two days ago, but not happy with a rumbling noise underneath, so took off the vcu shaft. One bearing was iffy and the other was buggered, nice and quiet again in 2 WD. Will order new bearings tomorrow and replace.
Click to expand...

Removed my VCU and bearings, got the genuine bearings(they have been fitted to the VCU) faffed around separating the prop shafts..destroyed the front UJ in the process despite following the procedure mentioned on here....daughters car passed MOT on Friday, she picks it up today..it's still in Mondo mode...just been told it will be needing a new clutch soon though. Have paperwork for a slave cylinder from just before I bought it...maybe someone was trying to 'hide' the clutch issue or doing a cheap fix....another task raises it's ugly head...Car has never run better though...thats not down to my mechaniktrickery skills but down to the advice on this forum...I have become a bit of a stalker...luckily (for some on here) we live hundreds of miles apart so there is little chance of me turning up on anyones doorstep at 11 p.m. to 'discuss' Freelanders.......You lucky people....but I can still stalk you on here.......
 
MollyNomad said:
Removed my VCU and bearings, got the genuine bearings(they have been fitted to the VCU) faffed around separating the prop shafts..destroyed the front UJ in the process despite following the procedure mentioned on here....daughters car passed MOT on Friday, she picks it up today..it's still in Mondo mode...just been told it will be needing a new clutch soon though. Have paperwork for a slave cylinder from just before I bought it...maybe someone was trying to 'hide' the clutch issue or doing a cheap fix....another task raises it's ugly head...Car has never run better though...thats not down to my mechaniktrickery skills but down to the advice on this forum...I have become a bit of a stalker...luckily (for some on here) we live hundreds of miles apart so there is little chance of me turning up on anyones doorstep at 11 p.m. to 'discuss' Freelanders.......You lucky people....but I can still stalk you on here.......
Click to expand...
Hello, what bearings did you use ?
 
Old diver said:
Lol, what did you pay for them, the price varies everywhere.
Click to expand...

Okay, it was about a month ago....I bought some other stuff then too but think the bearings were about £38-00 each. Not cheap but cheaper than some places. I just ordered them via Ian Sim (LandRover Specialist in Ladybank, Fife) When I collected them they were in a 'Britpart'(****part) box but they are stamped GKN on the race. The 'genuine' Britpart ones were £30 or so for a pair. The day I collected them I ordered new OEM rear shocks and springs/shock mounts....an expensive few days.......
 
As I am in Spain this is really a 'What have I NOT done to my Freelander today...'

Daughter has just called to say that the rear L/H window is stuck about a fingers width down from fully up. Think the weather is crap up there ATM....Should have fixed this when I was home the last time..(my 'bad') but other work took priority...So have advised her to do some 'bodgery' on it...find some thick, clear plastic sheeting, stick to the outside and inside with wide clear tape (keep the plastic to a minimum to stop 'flappiness' and noise down) This is another reason why I am '****-canning' Spain and going back home as I can't work miracles..(well, not everyday) I cannot wait to be back there!!
 
Finished off the lift kit fitted new rear brake pipes new rear mud flaps and booked in for its full wheel alignment.
 

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Had quite a bit of brake judder coming up through the steering wheel lately so I sent off for a pair of discs and pads from Advanced Factors (£65 delivered)
Stripped down the nearside wheel caliper this morning to find the piston side pad about 50% worn and the floating pad hardly worn at all. There was no evidence of any lubricant on either the pad guides or the caliper guide pins. The pads and discs were last replaced by Kwik Fit.

The disc is well scored both sides with scaly patches and a pronounced 'lip', so definitely due for replacement. Haven't looked at the offside one yet.

Problem is, I cannot budge the 10mm Torx bolt holding the disc on. I've turned my 10mm Torx driver into a beautiful helix worthy of the Turner prize. Off to Halfrauds this afternoon for a new one and an impact driver, unless someone has a better idea.

Okay. Got back from Halfrauds armed with a shiny new impact wrench. It worked! Yeah!
But did the disc slide off? Did it buggery. I had to put a couple of bolts and nuts through the caliper bolt holes and jack the bastard off; rotating it a 1/4 turn every now and again. Took ages. Now to fit the new disc.

Later, much later. New disc and pads fitted on one side. Went together a damn site easier than it came apart. I'll tackle the offside tomorrow.
 
Last edited:
Inlet manifold cleaned out and egr delete after 93 thousand miles what a difference it made a lot more responsive. Only downside is I’m up to my eyeballs in carbon gunk.
 
I've been getting a loud rattle/clunking from the back end going over bumps. Wasn't quite sure where it was coming from, but definitely the back somewhere.

Yesterday I thought I'd just make sure it wasn't something in the boot, so donned protection gear and set to cleaning it out. Not quite sure how I managed to accumulate 3 hats/caps, 2 pairs of sunlasses, numerous loose golf balls, various bottles of water, 2 wiper blades, an unused box of front pads, locking wheel nuts as well as a whole load of rubbish... but cleared it out anyway.

Then realised what the noise is. I snapped the tow bar electrics off (where its welded to the tow bar frame) on some rocks and cos it was just dangling on the wire, I pushed it up under the bumper and rested/wedged it between the tow bar frame and "something" (rear subframe?). It must just be loose since I last got it out and hooked up a trailer.

Still, my forgetfulness has resulted in a clean boot :)
 
finished cleaning and painting rest of front subframe,also cleaned flaking paint from back box and sprayed with stove paint.
might last a bit longer.lol.
 
I'm in trouble now. Started removing the offside front disc this morning and the M10x20mm Torx disc retaining bolt has sheared. Like the nearside one I suspect whoever fitted it was relying on that well know threadlock, ferrous oxide. Looks like it's pretty essential to ensure the disc is centered correctly, so that's me scuppered until I can drill it out and run a tap down the hole.
 
Rank Amatuer said:
Looks like it's pretty essential to ensure the disc is centered correctly, so that's me scuppered until I can drill it out and run a tap down the hole.
Click to expand...

The Torx screw is only there to keep the disc from falling off the hub when the pads are removed.

It's not correct, but is possible to fit new discs and leave that screw out. It just means the disc will be loose while the wheels are removed.

The disc is clamped tight in position when the wheel nuts are torqued up.

To do the job correctly. You need to drill out the stuck in thread and re-tap a new thread for another screw. It is acceptable to turn the disc to the next set of wheels studs round and dill/ tap in the next unmolested saction round the hub.
 
Last edited:
HTR. Thanks for the tips. I've removed the offending piece of stud with and easy-out. I think the heat of drilling it freed it up as it came out quite easily with no apparent damage to the thread. Welding onto the stud would not have been an option. The bit left in the hub was below the surface, if you get my drift.

Nodge. I came to the same conclusion when refitting the caliper. The bolt is 'merely' to hold the disc in place during assembly. I've reassembled everything pending delivery of a new bolt. I took the car for a spin, the vibration is gone and she pulls up straight as a die. Give the pads a couple of hundred miles and I reckon the job's a good 'un.
 
Prop shaft back on with new bearings,engine bay de gunked as the person who fitted the egr blank didn’t fully tighten the clamp to the exhaust and some comma diesel magic added to the tank.
 
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