Nodge68
Well-Known Member
I was working on my TD4, (mother in law has my old V6). The pump has been leaking for about 3 months, even after I'd replaced the seals. I decided to replace the pump with a known leak free one. I'll rebuild the original pump later in the year.
rob_bell
Well-Known Member
Inspired by an article in LRO a month or two back, I’ve fitted a USB charger to replace one of the switch blanks in the handbrake console.
The USB charger is one of the ones readily available off the bay of fleas and is wired into the rear passenger cigar lighter
Both the switch aperture and the USB charger required some mild trimming and repainting to fit, but the jobs a good un!
The USB charger is one of the ones readily available off the bay of fleas and is wired into the rear passenger cigar lighter
Both the switch aperture and the USB charger required some mild trimming and repainting to fit, but the jobs a good un!
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Here’s what I’ve done over the past week!
Replaced sun roof (one was missing!)
Replaced wiper/light stalks (they were snapped)
Replace steering wheel
Replaced both headlights (clear type)
Replaced side indicators (clear type )
Fitted spare wheel cover
Removed carpets (off use)
Fitted LR boot liner
Resprayed bonnet
Resprayed alloys
Removed air filter fitted universal one —
Made snorkel from gutter pipes and universal air box
Been busy really now to find lift kit and tyres!!
So from this
To this
Replaced sun roof (one was missing!)
Replaced wiper/light stalks (they were snapped)
Replace steering wheel
Replaced both headlights (clear type)
Replaced side indicators (clear type )
Fitted spare wheel cover
Removed carpets (off use)
Fitted LR boot liner
Resprayed bonnet
Resprayed alloys
Removed air filter fitted universal one —
Made snorkel from gutter pipes and universal air box
Been busy really now to find lift kit and tyres!!
So from this
To this
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Was yesterday actually. I investigated why the mother in laws V6 suddenly and randomly stopped cranking over. I couldn't get the fault to replicate, but it did have a slight delay to cranking on one of the twenty times I tried it. So I decided to remove the starter for cleaning. The V6 starter is a pain to get at, without a strip down of the induction system. So that's what I did, which took about 30 minutes to do.
Once I got the starter out, I stripped the solenoid for investigation. I fitted a rebuild kit a couple of years back, so still looked in good condition, although there was some uneven burning on one contact. I cleaned the contacts and lubed the plunger with WD40, before reassembling the starter. I then refitted all the stuff I'd removed and gave it another twenty start test.
It started faultlessly every time. So hopefully that's job jobbed.
Once I got the starter out, I stripped the solenoid for investigation. I fitted a rebuild kit a couple of years back, so still looked in good condition, although there was some uneven burning on one contact. I cleaned the contacts and lubed the plunger with WD40, before reassembling the starter. I then refitted all the stuff I'd removed and gave it another twenty start test.
It started faultlessly every time. So hopefully that's job jobbed.
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Unfortunately the 1.8 but it was only £270 with a few months mot!!! And will buy a diesel after this and swop what I can over yea I’ve not had much on and trying to diy most things to keep cost down to buy tyres and lift kitYou've been busy Nick! Which engine does it have?
rob_bell
Well-Known Member
Mine's a 1.8 too - having a lot of fun with it! For £270 with an MoT, that's pretty good going I think. It's still 4WD? A lot of these have been converted to 2WD (largely to disguise transmission damage from deteriorating VCUs)
I'd certainly consider a lift kit: 40mm is easier to fit with less modifications to the main chassis rails. Try Muddy Mods (other suppliers are also available!).
Check out threads by @Alibro who has undertaken the 50mm lift on his Freelander
I'd certainly consider a lift kit: 40mm is easier to fit with less modifications to the main chassis rails. Try Muddy Mods (other suppliers are also available!).
Check out threads by @Alibro who has undertaken the 50mm lift on his Freelander
Mine's a 1.8 too - having a lot of fun with it! For £270 with an MoT, that's pretty good going I think. It's still 4WD? A lot of these have been converted to 2WD (largely to disguise transmission damage from deteriorating VCUs)
I'd certainly consider a lift kit: 40mm is easier to fit with less modifications to the main chassis rails. Try Muddy Mods (other suppliers are also available!).
Check out threads by @Alibro who has undertaken the 50mm lift on his Freelander
I’m really happy with what I got for £270! And after hearing all the dreaded stories about the 1.8 it drove home 65 motorway miles fine and off road was ok no over heating issues and apart from nearly sinking it it’s been great !
As she’s going to be a mainly off roader I was hoping to go with the 50mm kit and the 195/80/15 mud tires?
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Cheers Rob.Fingers crossed Nodge!
rob_bell
Well-Known Member
Awesome - and I love the pure 1990s colour too!
All depends on how aggressive off roading you're planning. I'm enjoying Green Laning, but the main limiting factor so far has been ground clearance (I ripped off the original plastic undertray after getting grounded and reversing off). I've replaced this with an alloy replacement. Will see how this fairs against the wilds of Salisbury Plain this weekend
Big tyres and a 50mm lift will certainly help. The former will impact upon the gearing, but you're not going too aggressive there, so should be fine.
The 50mm lift is very do-able, but will require cutting into the chassis rail. Check out Alibro's posts in this regard - I'd probably opt for the 40mm lift if it were me based on his experience.
All depends on how aggressive off roading you're planning. I'm enjoying Green Laning, but the main limiting factor so far has been ground clearance (I ripped off the original plastic undertray after getting grounded and reversing off). I've replaced this with an alloy replacement. Will see how this fairs against the wilds of Salisbury Plain this weekend
Big tyres and a 50mm lift will certainly help. The former will impact upon the gearing, but you're not going too aggressive there, so should be fine.
The 50mm lift is very do-able, but will require cutting into the chassis rail. Check out Alibro's posts in this regard - I'd probably opt for the 40mm lift if it were me based on his experience.
Awesome - and I love the pure 1990s colour too!
All depends on how aggressive off roading you're planning. I'm enjoying Green Laning, but the main limiting factor so far has been ground clearance (I ripped off the original plastic undertray after getting grounded and reversing off). I've replaced this with an alloy replacement. Will see how this fairs against the wilds of Salisbury Plain this weekend
Big tyres and a 50mm lift will certainly help. The former will impact upon the gearing, but you're not going too aggressive there, so should be fine.
The 50mm lift is very do-able, but will require cutting into the chassis rail. Check out Alibro's posts in this regard - I'd probably opt for the 40mm lift if it were me based on his experience.
Cost has a big factor atm here what I’m looking at
rob_bell
Well-Known Member
That's certainly a competitive price - link for the Muddy Mods page in case you haven't seen it to compare (note that it comes with the camber compensating bolts as well): https://www.muddymods.com/collectio...er-1-lift-kit-all-years-50mm-inc-camber-bolts
Other kits are also available, but I think they're a bit more again?
Other kits are also available, but I think they're a bit more again?
I looked at muddy mods inc post there coming up at £147 that’s almost £50 more than the kit shown as there pretty much the same and feedback looks ok?
As for the tyre there just budget remoulds but for messing about in I think there fine I won’t be going over 50!
They’re shipped from Bulgaria? Look fine to me in the pictures. Just need the camber compensation bolts (not sure if they’re included)
Look forward to seeing the next steps!
Don’t think there inc but found a pair for £16 so still cheaper it’s just waiting 2 weeks!! Funny thing is I own 2 houses in Bulgaria lol
Alibro
Well-Known Member
If I were doing it again I'd go for the 40mm lift kit. Take a look at this.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/how-to-fit-a-50mm-lift-kit.307452/
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
+1 on ground clearance being the limiting factor usually for Freelander off road.
Its suprising how far a standard Freelander can get, or even a 2WD one when you've got a possey of 25 Landies to support you when you do eventually get stuck - but even then I've left the car in the middle of nowhere and jumped in a more able vehicle, not because the car got stuck, but because the underneath was being hammered.
I'd be a bit concerned going to large with the tyres. The 1.8 is probably least receptive to larger tyres. With no low range and no auto box, I think you're much more likely to burn out clutches with larger diameter tyres. I have no experience in this, just thinking out loud
Its suprising how far a standard Freelander can get, or even a 2WD one when you've got a possey of 25 Landies to support you when you do eventually get stuck - but even then I've left the car in the middle of nowhere and jumped in a more able vehicle, not because the car got stuck, but because the underneath was being hammered.
I'd be a bit concerned going to large with the tyres. The 1.8 is probably least receptive to larger tyres. With no low range and no auto box, I think you're much more likely to burn out clutches with larger diameter tyres. I have no experience in this, just thinking out loud
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
The last bits arrived on Monday for my back brakes and as the retest runs out tomorrow, this evening I....
I always have a read of Rave before doing anything to the car, but I didn't today, how difficult can the shoes be to replace! Yeh, right. I'm sure Rave would have made my life a lot easier giving a decent order to assemble the parts (hand brake, adjuster, springs etc). I did though remember LZ advice to take photos of the setup - which came in handy as I realised I didn't know which way up the adjuster should go in. Any how I did the passenger side first - all came apart well and gave the backing plate a good clean up - the bolts and pipe came off the cylinder no problems and new cylinder on OK. The reassembly of the shoes is a bit like a Krypton Factor challenge, but eventually got it all together an new drum on.
It was very late by this point, but I decided to do the drivers side as well - would be a lot quicker having solved the Krypton Factor challenge. Got the old stuff off, cleaned up the backing plate, loosened the bolts for the cylinder... then went to loosen the brake pipe to the cylinder and got that horrible feeling as the spanner rounded on the nut - bugger.
So I tidied up, dosed the nut (or what ever its called) in WD40 and called it a day - shall get back to it tomorrow. Fingers crossed can get it off.
I also couldn't find a bit on my 1-man-bleeding kit. So I've been unable to bleed the new cylinder. I just know that by the time I do it tomorrow, all that air will have worked it way right up through the system and I'll have a full blown bleeding to do. I've made sure the reservoir is maxed full - but I don't suppose that matters much though!
@Nodge68 - I got the AllMakes drums and they're just steel - not painted - presumably they'll rust so I'll need to paint them?
I always have a read of Rave before doing anything to the car, but I didn't today, how difficult can the shoes be to replace! Yeh, right. I'm sure Rave would have made my life a lot easier giving a decent order to assemble the parts (hand brake, adjuster, springs etc). I did though remember LZ advice to take photos of the setup - which came in handy as I realised I didn't know which way up the adjuster should go in. Any how I did the passenger side first - all came apart well and gave the backing plate a good clean up - the bolts and pipe came off the cylinder no problems and new cylinder on OK. The reassembly of the shoes is a bit like a Krypton Factor challenge, but eventually got it all together an new drum on.
It was very late by this point, but I decided to do the drivers side as well - would be a lot quicker having solved the Krypton Factor challenge. Got the old stuff off, cleaned up the backing plate, loosened the bolts for the cylinder... then went to loosen the brake pipe to the cylinder and got that horrible feeling as the spanner rounded on the nut - bugger.
So I tidied up, dosed the nut (or what ever its called) in WD40 and called it a day - shall get back to it tomorrow. Fingers crossed can get it off.
I also couldn't find a bit on my 1-man-bleeding kit. So I've been unable to bleed the new cylinder. I just know that by the time I do it tomorrow, all that air will have worked it way right up through the system and I'll have a full blown bleeding to do. I've made sure the reservoir is maxed full - but I don't suppose that matters much though!
@Nodge68 - I got the AllMakes drums and they're just steel - not painted - presumably they'll rust so I'll need to paint them?
