hd3 said:

@Nodge68

vid edited in IMovie .. an app that comes with the system software ( mac osx )
it's a very basic editing app. i've only just learnt to use a new version .. somewhat
anyhowz .. final vid speed can be changed within the app.
( as can various other things .. like exposure / colour .. etc etc )

must be similar apps available for 'free' .. or 'shareware' .. for PC's
on the internet


good question .. as in 'i don't know'
( was labeled 'Choral 04' .. ;-) ..
( was no info on the metadata .. except a long string of numbers and letters
( which i assume is a code off the original cd track
as IMovie can trim the audio track .. and fade it out ..
i just looked at ( auditioned ) any audio i had that were longer than the vid.
i also took the audio file into 'Audacity' .. a free audio editing app off the internet
( for PC's and Macs ) .. and deleted the metadata info off the file ..
that's .. so hopefully the yootoob site won't recognise the artist ..
and the vid won't get flagged as to having copyright music in it
( as did happen with a vid of my dog ..
( i used a well known classical piece .. and got a note saying it were copyright no no
( so i took the file off yootoob
( yet to see if same has happened to the buttertubs vid..


be a option within the 'scangauge' .. ( https://www.scangauge2.co.uk )
i.e. i view the mph reading ( and 3 other 'gauges' ) on the device
as i find the dash dials inconvenient to view .. steering wheel blocks my view
the scangauge can alter the mph readout by a percentage ..
i checked the mph against a gps phone app ..
then altered the mph percentage on the scangauge
used '6%' .. and the tyre fitting site noted a 6.21% change
( went from 225/55/17 .. to .. 225/65/17 .. tyres )


is that the software in the vehicles various computers ( ecu etc etc ) ???
methinks the answer is a 'no' ..
it can be used to clear fault coded .. although i've not tried that ..
it's not like the various scanners talked about here ( e.g. hawkeye etc etc )

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Is that piece of music on the HDD?

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I understand about the display now. You didn't change how the speedometer read. Just what the Scan gauge shows.

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GrumpyGel said:

One of the contacts burnt out on a front indicator of my '99 car in 2014. I bodged it by filling with solder and it has miraculously worked since. However it stopped working again this week. After Nodge confirmed they are interchangeable, today I've swapped the all-clear lights over from my 2000 parts car.

It really is a pain taking the lights out on Freelander (and probably a lot of modern cars). The whole front bumper valance has to come off, which means A-Bar as well - 16 screws, 2 bolts and 3 scrivets just for the bumper. It appears the most common thing I do on the car is remove the headlights - which means removing the valance - if it wasn't that it'd look so bad I might cut a hole in it to get a spanner in on the nut below the light!

Today was even worse because I've had to strip 2 cars down! Plus its been 30 degrees and really unpleasant working in the sun. Still job's done and my car's a couple of years younger cos it looks like a MY01 now

View attachment 116563

Actually, job's not quite done. I'd better put the old lights on the parts car and replace the bumper valance or else I know the Mrs will complain when she gets back from out of town.

View attachment 116564

Parts taken from the parts car now include....

1) Roof rails - installed on my car ($150).
2) Center console - installed on my car ($75).
3) Cup Holders - installed on my car, but then removed cos the idea was better than real life loss of a nick-nack holder ($50).
4) Passenger seat - installed as drivers seat on my car ($50).
5) 5 non-locking wheel nuts - sent down to Cromwell for HTR's car ($25).
6) 5 non-locking wheel nuts - delivered cross town for Tony Reeve's ex-car ($25).
7) Sunroof motor - installed on Tony Reeve's ex-car ($50).
8) Factory rubber mats - installed on my car ($100).
9) Jack - replaced the one on my car after I wore it out through to much use! ($40).
10) Front lights - installed on my car ($150).
11) VCU - have been stripping it from props this week, hopefully it will be reconditioned and on my car by March for Salmon season. ($600).
12) IRD - sitting in garage hopefully to be installed on my car by March. ($800).

So I recon I've already reclaimed $735 of the car's $980 purchase price. Which means restoring 4WD will only cost $245 as opposed to $1,400 - result. NZ$2 = 1£ roughly.

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MADWILTSHIREMAN said:

Was it really necessary to remove the valance to change the headlights? I changed mine by removing the top bumper screws and carefully levering the bumper down. A bit of a pain but better than getting the whole thing off. If you get a thin tyre lever or such like under the light you can get to the bottom headlight bolt with a flat spanner.

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and what was the music you overlaid?

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hd3 said:

@Nodge68
re:

evidently it's "Spem in Alium" by Thomas Tallis
that's according to :
The Orchard Music
On behalf of: ABC Classics
who stuck a copyright notice on the file :-/
( and that's with no metadata attached to soundtrack )
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htr said:

I changed my wheel/tyre set over and checked the brake pads for wear. Driver's side OK about 1/2 worn. Passenger side are about 2mm from the backing plate! Guide pins seem to move freely, but I removed them, wiped them clean and applied copper grease and refitted. I've ordered replacement pads and a caliper O/H kit, just in case.

Brake performance isn't great in the FL1. It doesn't pull to the left... The pads were those green stuff ones from EBC and the rotors are the drilled & grooved ones - all were new and fitted at the same time in Aug 2014 when I got the FL.

History:
I did have a squealing and overheating issue in April last year while visiting GG. Did a roadside check with the wheel off, Wheel, rotor, caliper & pads V V hot! Removed pads and managed to push piston back a wee bit and reassembled. All seemed to be well. After getting home I had the brakes bled at my local workshop - peace of mind... I replaced the flexible hoses just before Christmas last year - brakes rebled...

Can any one offer ideas on what would cause such uneven wear in less than a year.

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Hippo said:

Washed it and filled it near full with fool

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Alibro said:

You putting on weight Hippo, able to fill it all by yourself?

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Nodge68 said:

The 2 reasons for uneven pad wear are:
1 sticking caliper slide pins.
2 sticking piston.
Those are in order of most likely first.
One of the slide pins has a rubber anti-squeal damper. These swell if oil based lubricant is used. The swelling then causes sticking and subsequent uneven pad wear. The only remedy is replace the rubber damper and use the correct lube. Or remove the rubber damper and use a moly based lube.
The piston can also rust under the dust cover. This then sticks against the caliper body, holding the pads in contact with the disc.

Oh and EBC pads are dreadful on a road car. The OE LR pads (Delphi) are much better at the temperature that the LR discs run at.

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Nodge68 said:

Today I fitted these items to my old V6 which is now owned by the mother in law.
View attachment 117289
All fitted.
View attachment 117290

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comdek said:

Today removed the whole engine.
View attachment 117297

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