Thanks Tony, the code is P0356 I am running a Blackbox Nano which is Freelander specific.
I think it may have been you a month or so ago that posted a page out of a code description book that confirmed
the description.
There is a ground on the block (where the other grounds from the engine harness terminate.
It is somewhere on the back corner of the head but I haven't been able to find it yet. Time for flashlights and mirrors I think.
Edit: I just went down to the garage and was able to locate the ground point on the head where the harness grounds, so I will ground coil 6 there as well. I hope to get the new coil wiring in tomorrow (although SWMBO has a list of pre-Christmas tasks for me) and will report on the results.
 
Last edited:
Rich in Vancouver said:
Thanks Tony, the code is P0356 I am running a Blackbox Nano which is Freelander specific.
I think it may have been you a month or so ago that posted a page out of a code description book that confirmed
the description.
There is a ground on the block (where the other grounds from the engine harness terminate.
It is somewhere on the back corner of the head but I haven't been able to find it yet. Time for flashlights and mirrors I think.
Click to expand...

I would run it forward to the front coil ground, that should be accessible.

Oh, and about the pipe...

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/td4-auto-gearbox-question.233461/
 
Oh and I just remembered, problems with the cam or crank position sensor can trigger the misfire code on cylinder 6. I guess the ECU does not see a clear position return at the exact time the detonation happens on number 6. I would have a close look at the plugs for the sensors.
 
Rich in Vancouver said:
Here's one for the V6 experts. :)
And, while I have things apart, here is another question....On top of the auto gearbox I spotted the vent tube below that looks like it should have a hose attached to it
going somewhere. :confused: Any idea where it should go?

standard.jpg
Click to expand...

Ground the suspect coil to a convenient bolt nearby;)
I'm curious that the ECU doesn't know if it's a primary or secondary fault. I suspect that you're ECU is the US spec unit.
All other markets use the S2000 ECU which has really good on board diagnostics.

The box pipe is left open. However if you are worried about water getting in when wading. A snorkel can be fitted to extend the vent higher in the engine bay;)
 
I do have the US spec Siemens ECU.
Good point about the crank and cam sensors. If the wiring doesn`t fix things they are next. :rolleyes:
I`m starting to look fondly on the old days when there were no sensors!
Also thanks for the info on the breather. I don`t intend to get into water that deep so I will just leave it alone.
 
Well, It`s looking like it is a failure within the ECU. I ran alternate wiring for the coil directly to the ECU connectors and still no firing at the coil. There is power to the coil at the brown/orange wire but I don`t have a meter capable of checking the black/blue wire that comes from the ECU. The cylinder has a brand new coil and spark plug. After running the vehicle there is no evidence that the spark plug is sparking at all. Swapping the coil and plug with proven good ones makes no difference. The crank sensor has been replaced and the MAF cleaned. I did try changing the cam sensor but the new one was a duff unit, proved when the Hippo ran with the old one but would not start with the new unit. I am currently trying to get a refund on the faulty part. I will be very ****ed if I have paid $250. for a piece of useless plastic!
So... I am looking at sourcing a used replacement ECU from a scrapper. A new dealer unit is out of the question as they would charge upward of $2000.
My question is: What do I need as well as the ECU to make the thing run? I am thinking the ECU, immobiliser unit and the chip out of the donor's key. Anything else? I have seen in other posts the throttle pedal module but don't know if that is linked to an individual ECU.
Bear in mind this is a North American car with the Siemens ECU so parts from a UK scrapper won`t work. :(
 
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You will need the ECU. The immobiliser ECU and key transponder, and possibly the CCU. I'm not 100% sure on the latter.
Are you 100% sure the ECU is duff on the coil ground? It's very unusual for the ECU to fail. They are well protected electronically from possible mis-connection and wiring faults.

I've looked at the wiring diagram for the coils.

I notice there is a resistor in the ground wire. Maybe a direct ground is causing the ECU to shut down.
 
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A resistor in the ground wire-Hmmm. In my spare harness the grounds all terminate together with a wire going from there to the ground point. I will open up the join and look for a resistor in there and hook up the multimeter to see what the resistance is .
The electrical problem occurred when I was driving home from work. I was at an intersection, doing a left turn (same routine as doing a right turn in the UK) and hit the gas to accelerate through a gap in traffic and the Hippo started running on five cylinders. At first I thought it was something simple like a fouled plug or duff coil. Odd I know.
 
It just occurred to me that the codes are the same if the Hippo is running on the original harness or with my additional coil #6 harness so a missing resistor may not be the problem but I will check the circuit resistance.
 
Rich in Vancouver said:
A resistor in the ground wire-Hmmm. In my spare harness the grounds all terminate together with a wire going from there to the ground point. I will open up the join and look for a resistor in there and hook up the multimeter to see what the resistance is .
The electrical problem occurred when I was driving home from work. I was at an intersection, doing a left turn (same routine as doing a right turn in the UK) and hit the gas to accelerate through a gap in traffic and the Hippo started running on five cylinders. At first I thought it was something simple like a fouled plug or duff coil. Odd I know.
Click to expand...
The resistor links all the grounds together. I can't get the wiring diagram picture to upload at the moment. I'll keep trying.
 
No worries Nodge, I found the resistor. It is in the wire between where all of the coil grounds meet and the ground point. The markings on the resistor are "W21, 240R, 5%"
I cut the resistor wire out of my spare harness and soldered it into my coil #6 harness and...No change. :( Runs on 5 cylinders and the codes are the same.
Here are the codes from the blackbox FWIW.

MS43 FAULT CODE MEMORY CONTAINS CODES FOR THE FOLLOWING FAULTS -:

P2071 - INTAKE MANIFOLD TUNING (IMT) VALVE STUCK CLOSED.

INVALID 0 0

INVALID 0 0

P0356 - IGNITION COIL 'F' PRIMARY / SECONDARY CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION.
__________________________________________________________________
I understand the intake code will come up whenever there is a misfire code.
 
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Rich in Vancouver said:
No worries Nodge, I found the resistor. It is in the wire between where all of the coil grounds meet and the ground point. The markings on the resistor are "W21, 240R, 5%"
I cut the resistor wire out of my spare harness and soldered it into my coil #6 harness and...No change. :( Runs on 5 cylinders and the codes are the same.
Here are the codes from the blackbox FWIW.

MS43 FAULT CODE MEMORY CONTAINS CODES FOR THE FOLLOWING FAULTS -:

P2071 - INTAKE MANIFOLD TUNING (IMT) VALVE STUCK CLOSED.

INVALID 0 0

INVALID 0 0

P0356 - IGNITION COIL 'F' PRIMARY / SECONDARY CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION.
__________________________________________________________________
I understand the intake code will come up whenever there is a misfire code.
Click to expand...

Next you need to check the continuity of the wiring to the coil.
Screenshot_20170101-183435.jpg

The diagram shows that al coils arw fed with a common ignition supply on the Brown/ pink. The ECU grounds coil 5 on the Black/purple to fire the plug. The black is commoned to the other coils and grounded by a resistor.
Edit:
I've just had a thought.
I've come across cylinder number and ECU log number discrepancies in the past. This makes fault finding tricky, because the ECU lists a different cylinder number, to the actual faulty cylinder.

Also the coils for the odd bank aren't in order when viewed from the front. The cylinders are 1-3-5 when viewed from the front, left to right. However the coils are fitted 3-1-5 when viewed left to right. This has caused confusion on many occasions, but coil 5 should in the correct place on this occasion.
 
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Remembered I need to finish it....
Tried a bit of boiled linseed oil on the very sad grey plastics. Cheap, easy and looks great.
Few jobs left then have a crack at an MOT :eek:
 
Nodge68 said:
Next you need to check the continuity of the wiring to the coil.
View attachment 114421
The diagram shows that al coils arw fed with a common ignition supply on the Brown/ pink. The ECU grounds coil 5 on the Black/purple to fire the plug. The black is commoned to the other coils and grounded by a resistor.
Edit:
I've just had a thought.
I've come across cylinder number and ECU log number discrepancies in the past. This makes fault finding tricky, because the ECU lists a different cylinder number, to the actual faulty cylinder.

Also the coils for the odd bank aren't in order when viewed from the front. The cylinders are 1-3-5 when viewed from the front, left to right. However the coils are fitted 3-1-5 when viewed left to right. This has caused confusion on many occasions, but coil 5 should in the correct place on this occasion.
Click to expand...
Hi Nodge. The problem is with coil 6. I am sure this is the coil as after replacing all of the spark plugs and coils it is the only one that shows no evidence of combustion on the new plug.
I have replaced the coil wiring. The Brown/Pink to the common connector in the ECU box and the Black/Blue to the plug on the ECU. The replacement wiring checked out OK for continuity (as did the original wiring for that matter). and I have now added the resistor to the ground.
In my mind the finger seems to point to the ECU as being the fault.
I am thinking of taking the car to an auto electrician for a diagnosis at this point.
 
Sorted a couple of in cab rattles.

1, rattle from under driver's side dash. There's two 8mm screws at the bottom of the fuse board and one 10mm screw to the wing. Tighten and rattle has gone.

2, buzzing rattle from dash/radio area. Took a bit of finding this one. And you won't believe, it was the cassette door cover! Bit of sound deadening sponge sorted this.

Also put some sound material inside the binnacle surround.

Life's alot quieter now.

The suspension clonks can wait til the sun comes back out :)

Mike
 
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