I have no idea what you just said but thanks for the info. I will now, as I usually do, google the crap out of all that and know a lot more tomorrow than I do today!
Would that issue also lead to radio/volume buttons on the s/wheel not working, cos Ive had that from day 1 too.
 
Rivo81 said:
I have no idea what you just said but thanks for the info. I will now, as I usually do, google the crap out of all that and know a lot more tomorrow than I do today!
Would that issue also lead to radio/volume buttons on the s/wheel not working, cos Ive had that from day 1 too.
Click to expand...
when you take the steering wheel off (battery disconnected for at least 20 mins before you do) the slip ring has the connections for horn air bag and radio volume connections if you have them. They can fail after a while or if some eejit refitted the wheel with the slip ring in the wrong position it will break first time you go full lock. (don't ask how I know).
 
Should be easily available from any scrappy and only 4 screws hold it in. If you are replacing it make 100% sure you have it in the centre position before refitting the steering wheel.
 
I've replaced the OSF window regulator and tailgate regulator both parts were Prime Line parts from E**Y... only issue I have now is the rear window seems to miss the top channel so needs a little pressure to allow it to seat home. Any ideas, tried adjusting the lower fixing bolts to alter the approach angle.....
 
I cured a very annoying rattle from the centre console. It just needed a couple of trim screws to stop it buzzing. I'm amazed at just how much noise it was making. It's like driving a different car.
Here's where I fitted the screws, one on each side
20160316_081452.jpg
 
changed both the aux drivebelt and the air con belt , pretty easy job only problem i had was the 10mm headed bolt that is the locking one ,the one that slides came undone ok but that one woudnt budge so i put a socket on the adjusting nut with a short breaker bar and worked it a bit , just moved abit one way then the other ,kept trying the nut eventually it gave and was able to sort rest of job,bit of a hold my breath and hope for the best job (expected there to be a loud crack and something to break ) but for once everything looks ok , fingers crossed it stays that way .
 
tyrefitter said:
changed both the aux drivebelt and the air con belt , pretty easy job only problem i had was the 10mm headed bolt that is the locking one ,the one that slides came undone ok but that one woudnt budge so i put a socket on the adjusting nut with a short breaker bar and worked it a bit , just moved abit one way then the other ,kept trying the nut eventually it gave and was able to sort rest of job,bit of a hold my breath and hope for the best job (expected there to be a loud crack and something to break ) but for once everything looks ok , fingers crossed it stays that way .
Click to expand...
Du you have to go under the car to change these belts?
 
No, just take the right front wheel off and the plastic splash guard. A 13mm socket / spanner to move the tensioner and the PAS belt pops off easily. 13mm socket to loosen the Alt/AC tensioner lock bolt and then slacken the tensioner off. Easy! Remember to support the vehicle with an axel stand.
 
It is possible to link out the heat exchanger. In the UK, I can't see that cooling via the cooling system is very effective. In reality, from testing I've done, the cooling system heats the IRD.
As long as you have fully synthetic oil, I can't see it being a problem.
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
dont remove it if you have an auto & tow. known to overheat
Click to expand...

Not from the testing I did MHM. I ran my V6 for 80 miles at 70 both with and without the heat exchanger connected. I proved that on a spring day of 15°C the IRD ran cooler when the heat exchanger was out of circuit. I used a simple clamp to stop water flowing through the exchanger.
With the exchanger in operation, I measured the IRD case temperature at 100°C after the 80 miles.
However the case temperature after 80 miles without the exchanger was 78°C This proved to me that the IRD was actually being heated by the coolant.
Now I expect that towing a heavy load, things would be different, but for just pottering about the town until the exchanger can be replaced, it's not going to be a problem.
 
both my bolts have 10mm heads ,i didnt jack it up or take wheel off ,just turned full right hand down took off guard and hey presto as i said apart from bolts were very tight job is easy .
 
Busy day working on the Freelander today. Changed oil, all filters (including turbo vent and PCV) removed and cleaned out the EGR valve. Also replaced the VCU and bearings with new GKN ones. Feels like new now. Well, allmost!
 
just finished replacing the usual window regulator in the rear n/s, not as bad as I thought though as I had not done one before, will be easier to do next time , and there will come a time...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

T
Help!
Replies
13
Views
673
Nodge68
Nodge68
B
Freelander TD4 Mk1 Rear Diff - Does anyone have any advice on how to replace the rear diff?
Replies
1
Views
261
Freddie17
Freddie17
R
LED side lights not working
Replies
9
Views
742
RickyFreelander
R
C
Rear wheel bearings or diff
Replies
11
Views
1K
Nodge68
Nodge68
L
Freelander 1 2005 Land Rover Freelander 1 HSE - Loose Gear Selector in Automatic Transmission
Replies
3
Views
634
Hippo
Hippo